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Thread: Running rich

  1. #21
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    Have you fitted anything else other than the wideband, and of course the obligatory question: Do you have the OEM air intake, or a pod filter?
    What other mods do you have? (how about a non OE blow off valve?)

    I notice your logs are at 1300 RPM, which is high for idle unless you are still warming up or your engine is struggling with a vacuum leak.
    Is the air volume raw MAF Hz?

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    Stock air filter box ... no pods .. yes a VTA BOV .. my car idles at around 1200 even when warm .. 900 with the AC on .. and 700 with car in D .. I tried cleaning the IACV and even replacing it but the idles did not fix .. so the idle has been artificially risen from the throttle .. if I don’t do this the car stalls in D .. the car has been thoroughly tested for boost/vacuums leaks

    Will get back you on the MAF thing

  3. #23
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    well that idle is not normal.

    650 rpm at idle in neutral
    600rpm in D
    and the rpm rises when the A/C is turned on to combat the additional load put on the engine when the a?C compressor starts up.

    i don't think you should be worried about the AFR's you should sort out the Idle first.

    what are you doing to artificially raise the idle?
    are you just tightening the throttle cable?

    stalling at idle suggests a possible vacuum leak, or a sensor has stopped working. MAF, coolant temp for ecu not dashboard temp, baro sensor, inlet air temp sensor. IFS on front rocker cover.
    or just a battery disconnect required to relearn idle point without the artificially raised idle. or a BIST screw setup to ensure the idle control valve has the opportunity to increase and decrease the idle as it needs to when things like the A/C is turned on or the car is put into Drive.

    Bye for Now!

  4. #24
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    Try going back to recirculating bypass valve for now if you can, or disconnect the vacuum feed to the BOV so you know it will remain closed.

    Then take anther log at idle for perhaps a minute (when warm) and we can look at what that shows.

    Also, remove all the log bits you don't want as that will increase your log frequency. Things like mid and high fuel trims are not used, so they can go permanently and some others can be removed for this exercise.
    No point in having both pulse width and duty cycle, O2 feedback isn't necessary as we can look at the sensor output (do you have wideband connected to O2Sensor 2? if not, that can go), accel enrichment can go as can airflow, airvol and TPS.

    Anything that doesn't return a value in the output should likewise be turned off.
    So you should have something like
    Battery, RPM, Target Idle, Coolant temp, Air temp, AFRMap, Injector pulse width, Timing Advance, ISCSteps, Fuel Trim Low, O2 sensor, O2 sensor 2

  5. #25

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    I’ll be sharing the new logs soon. Until then I was trying to readjust the idle rpm. It includes adjusting the screw in the picture. By the looks of it it looks like the screw it screwed.

    124ACEC9-E594-4FB7-960B-74AECC048F64.jpg
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  6. #26
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    From the factory I think there is a waxy paper plug on top of the cross head screw. If it has never been adjusted in the past. But I have tried to adjust the bist screw on an old vr4 of mine and it turned to dust and had to be picked/dug out with a small fine screwdriver . You then have to buy a new one and realise that the screw is made out of some kind of 1940's wonder material bakolite. Which turns to dust on its 7th birthday.

  7. #27

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    https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...hQ?usp=sharing

    the folder now contains 3 videos

    1) shows the afr,rpm (D,N) (AC ON/OFF) and vacuum .. notice that I have oscillation of 0.7 afr for no apparent reason
    2) notice the hiss but I can't find it if put my ear on the plenum chamber it gets more clear.
    3) to the slack in the throttle cable so the throttle is completely shut.
    Last edited by iftekhar.frt; 27-06-2020 at 08:53 AM.

  8. #28
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    Can you hear the hiss when engine is cold ?
    Could be a air leak on the plenum when it heats up have you removed it and it’s not been put back on 100% even ? Is the gasket all ok ?
    I had this type of problem and it was that the idle was not set correct
    You could also try soapy water and spray that on suspected areas.
    Sorry if all this has been done before but I haven’t gone back and re read the post

  9. #29
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    Mine was that the stepper Motor was not working once I put a new one in and set it correctly with Evoscan it was fine

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by galantnight View Post
    Mine was that the stepper Motor was not working once I put a new one in and set it correctly with Evoscan it was fine
    This is great advice. Just need to dig out the correct procedure!
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  11. #31
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    Check out Garry's posts in this thread to set the idle and stepper motor correctly: https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...33-Idle-issues

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by elnevio View Post
    Check out Garry's posts in this thread to set the idle and stepper motor correctly: https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...33-Idle-issues
    That’s what I used

  13. #33

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    Thank you so much for the quick support guys. the idle issue has been resolved. The TPS was reporting 17%. readjusting it to 13.3% fixed the idle rpm.

    WOT is now at 95.6% does not go above that.

    RPMs when warm idle 825
    AC on 900
    PUT in D ~700

    seems to running much leaner ~16 AFT now which gives me hope

    i still have the AFR oscillation of ~.7 AFR on the wideband.

    the thing that I dont is that the factory O2 is making a perfect sign wave between 0.9v and 0.1v. I dont get this.
    Last edited by iftekhar.frt; 27-06-2020 at 06:08 PM.

  14. #34

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    Nope no luck on the AFR issue.

    Wide open throttle
    comes to boost quickly (rpm 3K-4K) 8-9 psi bogs down AFR hits 9-10 .. feels like its struggling and wants to go4

    struggles and then goes pretty good

    no misfires also i changed the plugs like a month ago gapped at 0.8

  15. #35

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    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S7D...w?usp=drivesdk

    This video may be interesting .. cruise but the afrs still doing there thing

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by iftekhar.frt View Post
    Nope no luck on the AFR issue.

    Wide open throttle
    comes to boost quickly (rpm 3K-4K) 8-9 psi bogs down AFR hits 9-10 .. feels like its struggling and wants to go4

    struggles and then goes pretty good

    no misfires also i changed the plugs like a month ago gapped at 0.8
    Could it be that you haven’t replaced the plenum correct or not attached a pipe and when it is hot and you apply WOT it sucks more air and it goes lean but overcomes it and then you end up over fuelling and that’s why it then goes better ?
    You May have tryed all that but just thinking aloud so to speak

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    Is there a guide on how check for boost/vacuum leaks specific to our cars. I had a similar issue in my civic and it was the ignition coils. I do have a spare set of ignition coils anyway to test these with a multimeter before just throwing them in ?

    What is the minumum value TPS% when we say WOT.

    Can a bad ground be this issue?
    Last edited by iftekhar.frt; 27-06-2020 at 06:14 PM.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by iftekhar.frt View Post
    Is there a guide on how check for boost/vacuum leaks specific to our cars. I had a similar issue in my civic and it was the ignition coils. I do have a spare set of ignition coils anyway to test these with a multimeter before just throwing them in ?

    What is the minumum value TPS% when we say WOT.

    Can a bad ground be this issue?
    I think TPS should be 96% wot and 7% closed.

    If you have removed the plenum recently and the issues started after you refitted. It is very easy to trap a wire under the plenum and cause a vacuum leak.

    I two different methods to leak check a vr4 inlet pipework.

    1. Use a smoke machine. Attach it to brake booster nlet on back of plenum and pump smoke in and see where it comes out.

    2. Pressure test the inlet pipework, but only from the out put of the turbo compressor exit after the Y pipe joining, at the soft pipe front left of the engine. Fit a bung in the flex pipe and connect an air compressor to it. And pressurise the system. Then spray soapy water on every joint and see if it leaks.

    I usually pressure test to 20-24 psi to be sure it is not going to leak under normal operating condition.
    If you have issues where pipe blow off under pressure, you can use a bit of hairspray (I use Ellenet) on the joint before you put the pipes back together. And this will semi glue them together. Until you really want to pull the pipes off next time you do work on the engine.

    Method 2 avoids pressurising the crank and accidently blowing out one of the engine oil seals. Personally I would not pressurise the whole inlet pipework from behind the MAF as you have a vent pipe from the heads to the inlet pipework. You have to remove this a blank off the inlet pipe and take the oil filler cap off to be sure.

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    This is bad news and I have absolutely no idea on how to fix this.

    I noticed that the middle 2 long bolts on the intake manifold are loose. When I tried to tighten them they just did not grip and were free. I think the guy that did the plugs over tightened the manifold and striped the bolt holes. I removed the bolts and thread came out with it. The has happened to 3 of the back bolts.

    Can this be fixed ?

    D339407D-C7A8-4009-BDF6-247BC9A372B3.jpg

  20. #40
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    I think the only way to fix this would be to drill out the holes and then retread them next size up, that’s if you can get bolts that would fit.
    Maybe go back to the garage that done the work and see what they say .

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