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Thread: MUT II tester vs Evoscan

  1. #1
    Marxus's Avatar

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    MUT II tester vs Evoscan

    Hey guys!

    I could get hands on a Mitsubishi MUT II diagnostic tool for 120 Euros. Would it be worth it or can Evoscan + Modded OBDII cable do the same for less? (I already own evoscan, until now I was just to lazy to get that cable done). I don't want to pay 25 bucks every time a light flashes up. Did not happen in two years but who knows?

    Diagnosegerat_Mitsubishi_xl.jpg

    Buy or not to buy?

    Thanks for your replies.

    BR
    Marxus

  2. #2
    Confused's Avatar

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    You can *read* every single diagnostic code with nothing more than a paperclip.

    You can *reset* every diagnostic code, other than on the SRS system, by disconnecting the battery.

    You can log engine ECU onto the PC and play back the data with EvoScan and the £10 cable mod.

    You can bleed the AYC by jacking the car up, putting the car into gear and turning the steering wheel left and right.

  3. #3
    Marxus's Avatar

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    Okay thank you a lot

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    You can *read* every single diagnostic code with nothing more than a paperclip.

    You can *reset* every diagnostic code, other than on the SRS system, by disconnecting the battery.

    You can log engine ECU onto the PC and play back the data with EvoScan and the £10 cable mod.

    You can bleed the AYC by jacking the car up, putting the car into gear and turning the steering wheel left and right.
    Is it possible to reset SRS light with MUTII tester? or it needs even more special tool?

  5. #5
    Confused's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by SinkreZ View Post
    Is it possible to reset SRS light with MUTII tester? or it needs even more special tool?
    https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...g)-Fault-Codes

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    Davezj's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    You can *read* every single diagnostic code with nothing more than a paperclip.

    You can *reset* every diagnostic code, other than on the SRS system, by disconnecting the battery.

    You can log engine ECU onto the PC and play back the data with EvoScan and the £10 cable mod.

    You can bleed the AYC by jacking the car up, putting the car into gear and turning the steering wheel left and right.
    You can bleed the AYC rear diff with evosacn.
    activate the pump to build pressure and opperate the vales for bleeding the lines.

    very simple to do and it is one person job.

    Bye for Now!

  7. #7
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    €120 seems pretty cheap for a MUT-II though!
    April 2021 fleet status: 100% operational, but with 33% added sheddiness


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    You can bleed the AYC rear diff with evosacn.
    activate the pump to build pressure and opperate the vales for bleeding the lines.

    very simple to do and it is one person job.
    I never got round to trying this, but can you do it with a cheap cable or do you need a proper open port 2.0 jobby?

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    I use the openport 2 cable, not sure if vag cable works.
    Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.

  10. #10
    Davezj's Avatar

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    personally i have used the openport 2.0 cable, but you would have to try it on the cheap cable.
    i know the cheap cable will only read data so i am not sure if it will activate the pump and solenoids.
    it will not harm to try it.

    you will need a long usb cable if you are doing this on your own as you will need the laptop under the car with you and it plugs in to the car by the drivers left knee, so i think 5m cable is needed.

    you get to the AYC ecu controls in the bottom right of the evoscan window. change the ecu to ayc top middle of the screen , you will see the pump drive and the op check L and op check R solenoids in the bottom right of the evoscan window dont both with the air bleed button i dont know what this is supposed to do but it does not run the pump to fill it with fluid and create pressure..
    just remember that once you click the activate button the pump and the solenoids will engage for a set period of time i think 5-10 seconds.
    so you need to have enough fluid in the reservoir for that period of time.
    when you initially install and new or refurbed pump it will be empty of all fluid so it is best to fill the inlet pipe with fluid before installing the pump in the car then at least you will not be fighting a complete air lock.
    once pump pressure is achieved which is just a case of running the pump multiple times with the pump drive button once the pump is full of fluid the pump noise will change and the pump will start to shut off, it will not run for the full time the pump drive is active. this shows you the pump has reached full pressure.
    you can operate the left and right solenoids.
    when the solenoids are activate you just open the bleed nipple for that valve to allow air to bubble through. just close the bleed nipple at any time even if the valve if still open. it does not matter. you will need to run the pump every so often as you are bleeding pump pressure away everytime you open the bleed nipple and let fluid out.
    but don't let the pump reservoir run dry as you will need to start the bleed process all over again.

    it can take a while for all the air to come out of the bleed nipples so i run the bleed cycle until i get fresh fluid coming out of the nipple, put a pipe on the nipple and collect all the fluid coming out in a small clean pot. when i say small i mean small, ideally you want the pot to be smaller than the reservoir in the boot then you can never get air into system as there will always be something left i the reservoir in the boot.
    this gives you two things,
    one, is you know how much fluid has been pumped out, the reservoir in the boot is not very big so keep topping it up.
    two, you can pour the fresh fluid you have collected in the pot back in the reservoir so you don't waste it. as long as it was a nice clean tube and pot to begin with.
    then you can run the bleed process over and over again to ensure you do not have any last bubbles of air in the system.
    the only tricky bit is remembering to refill the reservoir.
    if you use a small enough pot then even refilling the reservoir this is fool proof.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    personally i have used the openport 2.0 cable, but you would have to try it on the cheap cable.
    i know the cheap cable will only read data so i am not sure if it will activate the pump and solenoids.
    it will not harm to try it.

    you will need a long usb cable if you are doing this on your own as you will need the laptop under the car with you and it plugs in to the car by the drivers left knee, so i think 5m cable is needed.

    you get to the AYC ecu controls in the bottom right of the evoscan window. change the ecu to ayc top middle of the screen , you will see the pump drive and the op check L and op check R solenoids in the bottom right of the evoscan window dont both with the air bleed button i dont know what this is supposed to do but it does not run the pump to fill it with fluid and create pressure..
    just remember that once you click the activate button the pump and the solenoids will engage for a set period of time i think 5-10 seconds.
    so you need to have enough fluid in the reservoir for that period of time.
    when you initially install and new or refurbed pump it will be empty of all fluid so it is best to fill the inlet pipe with fluid before installing the pump in the car then at least you will not be fighting a complete air lock.
    once pump pressure is achieved which is just a case of running the pump multiple times with the pump drive button once the pump is full of fluid the pump noise will change and the pump will start to shut off, it will not run for the full time the pump drive is active. this shows you the pump has reached full pressure.
    you can operate the left and right solenoids.
    when the solenoids are activate you just open the bleed nipple for that valve to allow air to bubble through. just close the bleed nipple at any time even if the valve if still open. it does not matter. you will need to run the pump every so often as you are bleeding pump pressure away everytime you open the bleed nipple and let fluid out.
    but don't let the pump reservoir run dry as you will need to start the bleed process all over again.

    it can take a while for all the air to come out of the bleed nipples so i run the bleed cycle until i get fresh fluid coming out of the nipple, put a pipe on the nipple and collect all the fluid coming out in a small clean pot. when i say small i mean small, ideally you want the pot to be smaller than the reservoir in the boot then you can never get air into system as there will always be something left i the reservoir in the boot.
    this gives you two things,
    one, is you know how much fluid has been pumped out, the reservoir in the boot is not very big so keep topping it up.
    two, you can pour the fresh fluid you have collected in the pot back in the reservoir so you don't waste it. as long as it was a nice clean tube and pot to begin with.
    then you can run the bleed process over and over again to ensure you do not have any last bubbles of air in the system.
    the only tricky bit is remembering to refill the reservoir.
    if you use a small enough pot then even refilling the reservoir this is fool proof.
    Is this the one ? I need to bleed my AYC pump soon after refitting it ?
    Ian

    Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk

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    you will not get a working tactrix cable for £18.
    unless it is a reversed engineered one from china.
    got to tactrix website to buy it they are about £180 i think.

    the cable might be available as a knock off, but do you want to risk bricking your ecu to find out if it works or not.

    you are better off getting an original cable or wait for someone else to try the cheap cable on the AYC bleed test.

  13. #13
    ianturbo's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    you will not get a working tactrix cable for £18.
    unless it is a reversed engineered one from china.
    got to tactrix website to buy it they are about £180 i think.

    the cable might be available as a knock off, but do you want to risk bricking your ecu to find out if it works or not.

    you are better off getting an original cable or wait for someone else to try the cheap cable on the AYC bleed test.
    Ill try the lock to lock method first then

    Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk

  14. #14
    Davezj's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ianturbo View Post
    Ill try the lock to lock method first then

    Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk
    you do realize you need 3 people to do the lock to lock method,
    one doing the steering,
    one topping up the reservoir,
    one doing the bleeding on the diff.
    and it is dangerous having all 4 wheels spinning on axle stands.

    i will see if i can test the cheap reading cable tomorrow after work. to see if i can forcit into operating the pump and valves. then you only have to spend £5 on a proven reading cable.

  15. #15
    Davezj's Avatar

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    ian don't you have evoscan already?
    if so why dont you try your reading cable to activate the pump and valves.

  16. #16
    ianturbo's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    ian don't you have evoscan already?
    if so why dont you try your reading cable to activate the pump and valves.
    I don't even have a lap top .and i still play records,

    Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk

  17. #17
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    well as promised here a very quick version of my testing.

    cheap £5 cable will,
    monitor all data point in evoscan.
    will allow you to activate the atcuators on the EFI page only (fans, injectors, fuel pump, etc)

    it will not allow you to active ate the AYC actuators.


    the tactrix 2.0 cable will allow you to
    monitor all data point in evoscan.
    activate all of the actuators on every page of the ecu drop down list.

  18. #18
    Davezj's Avatar

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    Ok here is evoscan setup and actuators for different cables.

    cheap cable form ebay £5 read only cable (equivalent to open port 1.3)

    see the cable selection setting top left required for open port 1.3 equivalent £5 cable
    see also the actuators in the bottom right these actuator will work for the EFI ECU
    so you have control over the injectors, fuel pump, rad fans, etc.

    evoscan V2.7 open port 1.3 setting for EFI ECU.JPG

    below is the same cable but with the AYC ecu selected, see the ayc actuators bottom right THESE DO NOT WORK, you can click them but evoscan will not connect to the ecu and try and activate them even through the button changes colour.

    evoscan V2.7 open port 1.3 setting ayc ecu actuators.JPG

    see the cable selection setting top left required for open port 2.0 cable about £180 from tactrix.
    see also the actuators in the bottom right these actuator will work for the EFI ECU
    so you have control over the injectors, fuel pump, rad fans, etc.

    evoscan V2.7 open port 2.0 setting for EFI ecu (engine).JPG

    below is the same cable but with the AYC ecu selected, see the ayc actuators bottom right. these actuators will work and for ayc bleeding you need to use the pump drive, op check R, op check L

    evoscan V2.7 open port 2.0 setting for AYC ecu actuators.JPG

  19. #19
    ianturbo's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    you do realize you need 3 people to do the lock to lock method,
    one doing the steering,
    one topping up the reservoir,
    one doing the bleeding on the diff.
    and it is dangerous having all 4 wheels spinning on axle stands.

    i will see if i can test the cheap reading cable tomorrow after work. to see if i can forcit into operating the pump and valves. then you only have to spend £5 on a proven reading cable.
    I have the use of a ramp and a full working garage.

    Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk

  20. #20

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    I wrote an app a few years ago that will reset SRS errors if you have a serial cable or openport 2.

    Is there actually interest for it? I'll clean it up and upload.

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