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Thread: Awaiting delivery

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    Start with AYC oil change in the diff and the reservoir in the boot, that may fix the issue. After that, as Louis says, it may need an adjustable pressure switch. @MPBVr4 may have one available.
    I’m Still lurking. I’ll have look at work on Monday. Pretty sure there might be one or two left

  2. #22
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    You can also pull the fault codes and see what AYC codes there are. It is most likely a tired pump which can be resolved with one of Malc's adjustable switches as already mentioned.

    The pump reservoir is behind the right hand side boot panel.
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    Ok so i did the code diagnostics. AYC fault code i got was 82 pump failure. I will proceed with the oil change for now and hope it helps. I also got some codes for other bit which i will decode later.

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    Just to clarify because im getting a bit mixed up. It is the AYC clutch pack fluid I should change and only an sp-III spec ATF should be used for that? Or am I getting mixed up? because i just opened an AYC service guide that recommended dextron 3.

    Cheers
    Steve

  5. #25
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    AYC clutch pack requires ATF, most people recommend Amsoil, which is very good. Make sure you can get the fill bolt open BEFORE you drain it!

    Amsoil ATF handles the high temperatures much better than other ATF's.

    It's the ATF in the pump circuit from the reservoir in the boot that may help with the worn pump error. This needs bleeding which can be a bit of a pain.

    Some good advice in this thread - https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...=ayc+fill+bolt

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    Thats the thread that got me confused, it recommends dexron 3 for AYC. But I've read other threads that say its not suitable. Its all a bit confusing. Is there a definitive list of which spec fluids are to be used where, because there are so many required on the drive train and I keep reading conflicting information and people seem to call things by different names even Mitsubishi manual is confusing on the spec of the fluid and where it goes. I'm pretty keen to get fluids changed this weekend but I'm really struggling to get hold of SP-III, I can get 5l delivered from Amazon, but that thread has confused me a bit. Im happy to buy the 5l if I know I can use it in other parts of the drive train but I'm so confused now my head is fried from the amount of time I've spent on the internet in the last few days trying to sort this out. I checked the hydraulic reservoir today, the level was good and the oil seemed very clean. Did notice a new noise though, bit of a clatter coming from cambelt area. ☹️.

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    Def only AMSOIL for ATF/Clutch Pack - best thing you can buy to look after it...

    And if you can, IMO, AMSOIL for the engine, but personal choice plays a part with this...

  8. #28
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    https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...ght=definitive

    any SPIII compliant ATF is fine. As mentioned previously, Amsoil AFT is highly recommended and the only thing I will use in my car.

    Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII is the manufacturer own brand.


  9. #29
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    I'm not usually one for over-zealous editing of historical posts - but that one seems to have slipped through the net of saying Dexron fluid. So, I've abused my powers, and have performed an edit to clarify to not use Dexron fluid!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MPBVr4 View Post
    I’m Still lurking. I’ll have look at work on Monday. Pretty sure there might be one or two left
    Hi Malc, whats the deal with these AYC switches then, do you have one to sell, is it an easy job to fit, does it need setting up?

    Thanks Steve

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    @MPBVr4

    Hi Malc, whats the deal with these AYC switches then, do you have one to sell, is it an easy job to fit, does it need setting up?

    Thanks Steve

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHESHIRECAT View Post
    @MPBVr4

    Hi Malc, whats the deal with these AYC switches then, do you have one to sell, is it an easy job to fit, does it need setting up?

    Thanks Steve
    Hi Steve,

    I set them at 10 Bar. There are some fitting instruction on here somewhere. I’ll try to find them in the morning. Easier on my work PC.
    I’ll up date you tomorrow

    Cheers Malc.

  13. #33
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    It's about 10 min job, lift rear off side corner undo couple 12mm bolts holding pump up, lean pump down, unscrew old screw back new switch, you loose a bit of fluid depending how quickly you screw new in, you may need to make new cable connections. Bolt everything back in and check if ayc light stays on if it stays on turn little screw on switch about 1 turn at the time until ayc light stop showing up.
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  14. #34
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  15. #35

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    If anyone can help with this I would be most grateful:

    https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...idler-question

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