that is not the correct joint for the front of the car.
it uses a female type joint on the back but it is a CV joint a slide joint
so it does not look that will fit a VR4 at all.
i have the wrong info above the front inner cups are socket type and take a shaft into the end of them.
Last edited by Davezj; 26-08-2021 at 12:17 AM.
Bye for Now!
2006 VW Passat B6 Tdi 140 BKP (Daily driver)
1996 Legnum VR4 TYpe-S Sophia White (Weekend Toy)
1996 Legnum VR4 Type-S Trigger Mauve (Parts Car)
It looks visibly the same as the joint on the shaft I've revived from Adaxo. But I'll whip the vernier calipers out when I get home and also count the splines etc to be sure
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as far as i know the inner front cups has a splined stub axle poking out of the cup that pushed into the gear box orthe transfer case. the one in the pic that you said you ordered needs a stub shaft poking out of the gear box or transfer case to push into it.
this is assuming the picture is correct.
or i could be completely wrong and the cups need a stub shaft pushed into it
Edit:-
I can confirm, i am wrong.
Last edited by Davezj; 26-08-2021 at 09:31 AM.
sorry guy this is my bad,
i have just checked my spare transfer case and it has a stub axle sticking out from the transfer case so it will definitely need a socket cup on the inner joint.
This is my bad the inner joint need to be a socket type that will receive the stub axle poking out of the transfer case.
this looks to be the same part picture that is posted above, the lower of the two pics.
https://shop.febest.eu/inner-cv-join...411-n94rh.html
and this is an ebay add for the same part
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194311496...UAAOSwMzhhJe~0
but it is more expensive than direct from febest.
i am not saying this febast part above is the correct part i am just saying it is the same picture are posted above, the number of splines on the socket of the cup and the 3 wheel bearing still has to be check to make sure.
only then can we be sure.
Last edited by Davezj; 26-08-2021 at 09:01 AM.
Sounds like you talked yourself into the same position as the rest of us Dave!
It would be good to know if it is actually the right one, I look forward to the outcome, Russ.
i have found an spare output shaft from the gear box.
i have counted the splines on the outer end of the shaft (outer end has the screw thread in it)
26 splines on the outer end.
which means 26 splines required on the socket of the inner cup.
I am pretty sure the mitsi part numbers for the inner drive shaft joints are
passenger LH
MR336596
drivers side RH
MR336597
I think the reason for the different part number is the driver side one has a higher temp rubber for the boot as it sits right above the exhaust pipe the actual joint is the same on both sides.
Inner joint front drive shaft 1.JPG
Inner joint front drive shaft 2.JPG
Last edited by Davezj; 26-08-2021 at 10:12 AM.
just need to confirm te number of splines on the actual shaft itself that mates with the 3 wheel bearing.
not sure i can do this as i only have rear drive shafts and the splines might be different on the back drive shaft.
I should be able to get this information for you late Monday / early Tuesday. As I should be swapping shafts then and I can pull the old one apart to see what's what.
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That would be excellent.
once we have the full info i will create a new thread and document the the front and rear drive shaft with the inner and outer joints with the mitsi part number and specifying the spline numbers at each point and the seal flange size at each point as well.
i can probably find the after market equivalents numbers as well.
i will keep it concise and to the point.
thanks for offering to dig the spline info out that is great.
No problem. More than happy to help.
To be totally honest, I'm a little surprised that this hasn't been done before/already
But on the flip side of the coin, I'm happy that I can now help contribute in a more meaningful way
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just to verify it, could you check the outer cv joint spline number on the inside of the joint to the actual shaft.
you might struggle to get the outer CV joint off without a CV joint spliter, it all depends if the snap ring which holds the CV joint in place is being nice to you.
i have taken a couple of the CV joint off before to clean and repack with grease after a split boot but never had to replace the cv Joint.
two out of the 2 came off when i camped the shaft in a fixed vice and gave it a sharp blow with a club hammer on the back of the CV joint but the other would not budge. i ended up cracking the inner race of the CV joint when i hit it a bit to hard with the hammer.
i did try all sorts of soft hammers, wooden, plastic, rubber , leather, copper, deadblow, before resorting to a big club hammer. but i need the weight of the club hammer to remove it.
i now have a CV joint splitter to do it more gently.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373314845...IAAOSwCwFfoSeI
I took some measurements of the inner joint (short shaft with centre weight - Passenger side front) of what i could see without disassembling the joint itself
The visible splines
24 ridges
24 Valleys - 2 of which seem to be double width on opposing sides - i.e 6 & 12 - you can see what i mean in the first picture
1.jpg
2.jpg
2-2.jpg
3.jpg
3-2.jpg
4.jpg
4-2.jpg
5.jpg
5-2.jpg
5-3.jpg
Hope this helps in some way and off to a good start - axle shaft spline details to follow after the weekend (if all goes acording to plan)
Also to note - Adaxo told me that this shaft i have here came off a FL car, mine is PFL - I'm hoping theyre the same regardless