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Thread: CV Joint / Driveshaft woes

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    russhowe's Avatar

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    CV Joint / Driveshaft woes

    Folks, i seem to be in a bit of a pickle, this might take a bit of explaining on the back story and my entire situation, so grab yourself a coffee....I'll wait..... Got it? Good.

    My PFL Legnum has a shot inner passenger side CV joint. so much so that it has to be replaced entirely
    I spoke to Mike at Viamoto and he gave me the Mitsubishi part number of MR336596 but also suggested i send the whole shaft away to DriveshaftUK in the west-midlands to be reconditioned

    Me being me thought i could tackle the job myself just by replacing the joint - done loads of them in the past on VW Passat's, Ford Escort's etc and I've got a decent amount of tooling to do it (don't panic, nothing has been removed yet)

    I saw on another thread (https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...joint-supplier) that Febest make a seemingly compatible joint - 0411EA - which I've now discovered matches to part number MR336586
    Alas I had already ordered, paid for and took delivery of such a joint - but today I've noticed that this thread was surrounding a Galant 2.5 V6 2002 (presumably 2WD)
    That'll teach me for not reading things properly and charging in like a bull in a china shop

    I've today been searching around for MR336596 compatible joints and the imagery for these is different to the Febest joint that I've received, both in terms of the end that goes into the gearbox and the overall shape of the outer cup
    This is what I've got from Febest....
    0411EA.jpg

    Vs this outer cup is more like what i can see on the car and the gearbox end is different....
    0411N9RH.jpg

    To make matters worse - the car is meant to be going to Japfest on the 5th September (travelling down on the 4th)

    (Take another sip of coffee here)

    I have another VR4 here as a parts car and they're only about 3 weeks apart in terms of production line dates, we're talking mid Oct 1996 vs early Nov 1996.
    You might say "Just do a driveshaft swap from one car to the other"...... I can't easily do this.....because the outer CV joint on the parts car wont come out of the hub, it's seized solid, so I'd have to take the whole hub assembly inc wheel bearing and ABS sensor and hope to god that they're all still ok after being sat for years and up to the job

    Then we come to the issue of fluid drop from the gearbox upon removal of the inner joint.
    I've got 20L of Fuchs Titan ATF 4400 which clearly states on the barrel that its compatible with Mitsubishi SP-II / -III amongst a myriad of other manufacturer specs..... including Dexron III - now i know that Dexron is an evil word here, but because it specifically lists SP-II & SP-III then surely i should be ok, right?
    The gearbox was rebuilt by "Mister Transmission" in Charlton, London in November last year inc a new torque converter and "reclutch and reseal transmission" - now i don't know what's happened to the car since then but I've found engine mount bolts missing and it would seem that the clamps on the inner CV joint weren't done up which has caused my joint to fail - now I'm not saying that Mister Transmission are at fault - not at all, but evidently whoever has taken a socket and spanner set to this car between then and me purchasing the car has done some shoddy work.

    At this stage I'm ready to whip out my credit card and ask DriveshaftUK to just "fix it and send me a bill" unless one of you good souls can help me see the wood from the trees and reliably tell me that I've actually got the right parts and just to crack on.

    I hope this explains my predicament and current situation
    Thankyou for your patience.

  2. #2
    russhowe's Avatar

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    Are front and rear driveshafts different?

    I.e different cv joints for the rear vs the front?

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    2006 VW PAssat B6 Tdi 140 BKP (Daily driver)
    1996 Legnum VR4 TYpe-S EC5W0009510 (Weekend Toy)
    1996 Legnum VR4 Type-S EC5W0010354 (Parts Car)

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    I was looking through ASA quite a lot, and unfortunately I couldn't find any part numbers for just the joints - only the full shafts.

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    russhowe's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    I was looking through ASA quite a lot, and unfortunately I couldn't find any part numbers for just the joints - only the full shafts.
    ASA?

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    ASA is Mitsubishi Aftersales Service Application - it's a software application that is/was used by the dealers to look up part numbers.

    It gives you diagrams and part numbers, like these examples I've shared before.

    powersteering.PNG
    partnumbers.PNG

    You can also get access to a similar thing through places like Amayama, albeit not quite as nice.

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    Lovely, thanks!

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    Rears are not the same as fronts.
    I agree your second picture looks more like the inner joint that is on the car, but I have no idea if it is the right one.
    If only your inner CV's are bad, then you can often solve the problem by swapping the inner cups from left to right. This means you only have wear issues in reverse!

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    What makes me sceptical about using the joint in any capacity is the damage on the outer rollers that sit over the needle bearings.

    You can clearly see chips / small chunks / gouges where grit and stones have gotten in there.

    I honestly feel that an outright replacement is the best way forward

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    I've found a replacement complete shaft on ebay but despite asking the seller twice if its a front or rear shaft I've had no response.

    I'm assuming it's a front but it also looks a little long to me. So it may be a rear.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mitsubish...-127635-2958-0

    At this rate I'll send my shaft away to be reconditioned and just be done with it.

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    That ebay one is a rear. No concave shapes to the green cup.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mann View Post
    That ebay one is a rear. No concave shapes to the green cup.
    Nice one, thanks Nick, just the clarification I needed

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    Found some shafts just need to confirm which one you after? long or short fronts as i got confused myself which one goes where
    His FL Legnum VR4 running 238.8 ATW HP and 500Nm @1.05 bar on LPG
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    I think this is the part you need? Unfortunately, it's out of stock. Maybe worth contacting them though - https://shop.febest.eu/inner-cv-join...411-n94rh.html
    '97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods

    My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold

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    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    I think this is the part you need? Unfortunately, it's out of stock. Maybe worth contacting them though - https://shop.febest.eu/inner-cv-join...411-n94rh.html
    I've got this arriving at some stage but the delivery time is now too far away

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Joint...-127634-2357-0

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    Quote Originally Posted by adaxo View Post
    Responded via email

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    Quote Originally Posted by adaxo View Post
    Found some shafts just need to confirm which one you after? long or short fronts as i got confused myself which one goes where
    I suspect that the longer of the 2 shafts is for the drivers side.

    Looking on both my cars the shorter shaft has the weight thing in the centre and I've used this to choose the appropriate shaft.

    Arrived this morning by the way. Looks good.
    Very happy so far. Just need to get my hands dirty now ha ha

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    Quote Originally Posted by russhowe View Post
    I suspect that the longer of the 2 shafts is for the drivers side.

    Looking on both my cars the shorter shaft has the weight thing in the centre and I've used this to choose the appropriate shaft.

    Arrived this morning by the way. Looks good.
    Very happy so far. Just need to get my hands dirty now ha ha

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    Glad parcel actually arrived this time :-) good luck swapping it, it should be relatively smooth job unless your old one is stuck in hub or you broke any bolts while you there :-)

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    russhowe's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by adaxo View Post
    Glad parcel actually arrived this time :-) good luck swapping it, it should be relatively smooth job unless your old one is stuck in hub or you broke any bolts while you there :-)
    Thats exactly what's happened on my other car or I'd be whipping the shaft off that one instead.

    To do it now I'd have to take the whole hub, hope that the wheel bearing is OK and more importantly the abs sensor too - then finding the plug or joining wires. No thanks!

    At least like this, just a few bolts, bish bash bosh job done, away we go!

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