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Thread: Broken turbo housing

  1. #1
    russhowe's Avatar

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    Broken turbo housing

    I've discovered I have a broken front turbo housing. Where the Y pipe bolts on.

    I have a parts car that's low mileage.

    How much of a pig of a job is it to change a front turbo?



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    Last edited by Humpty's Revenge; 12-09-2021 at 08:11 AM.
    2006 VW PAssat B6 Tdi 140 BKP (Daily driver)
    1996 Legnum VR4 TYpe-S EC5W0009510 (Weekend Toy)
    1996 Legnum VR4 Type-S EC5W0010354 (Parts Car)

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    It's not too bad a job if you remove the radiator.

    that damage happens when someone puts the wrong bolt back after removing the hard pipe. Make sure you have the correct one when you fit the new part, it's incredibly easy to break!
    '97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods

    My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold

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    russhowe's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    It's not too bad a job if you remove the radiator.

    that damage happens when someone puts the wrong bolt back after removing the hard pipe. Make sure you have the correct one when you fit the new part, it's incredibly easy to break!
    I thought perhaps someone had gone a bit gun ho with an impact gun and over tightened it.

    The O ring on that end of the Y pipe (connecting to the front turbo) is also damaged. I still think its doing its job but only just.

    Fortunately I have a parts car, but bolts on that car I know will fight me every step of the way so I'm going to get a new mapp gas kit before I dive in.

    The bolt threaded into the broken off bit of casting seemingly perfectly (it was still attatched) albeit a bit gritty as the threads needed cleaning.
    But I'll compare the bolts used on both cars when I come to it. The odds of 2 cars having the same wrong bolt is incredibly slim. More chance of winning the lottery 2x in a row ha ha

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  4. #4
    TAR's Avatar

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    it's the length of the bolt which is important. it mustn't push trough too far.

  5. #5
    russhowe's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    it's the length of the bolt which is important. it mustn't push trough too far.
    So it's meant to be a stubby one?
    The one that's there is probably an inch long or a smidge more

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  6. #6
    russhowe's Avatar

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    My perception now is that the bolt is only there as an additional... failsafe...as it were, as the Y pipe can't really move as its bolted to the front head and the intake manifold

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    Nick Mann's Avatar

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    As Tim says, that bolt can't be too long. If it is it will hit the casting sprue below the bolt and force the bolt hole away from the sprue. I've seen that damage at least half a dozen times.

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    russhowe's Avatar

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    Worst case I'll cut it down in length ha ha

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    IIRC it's only about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long.

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    if you have the broken bit of the turbo housing, get it welded back on.
    that is what i did after the first garage that ever worked on my first VR4 gave it back with a broken turbo housing. i have to add that i got the garage that broke it to fix it.

    no garage has ever worked on car since then.

    Bye for Now!

  11. #11
    russhowe's Avatar

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    I do have the chunk as it happens

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  12. #12
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    get it welded back on.
    tig welding the aluminium is the way to go. but the turbo compressor housing need to come off to allow it to be welded.
    you might want to give them the Y pipe as well, so they can mount the broken bit on the Y pipe and the Y pipe can be pushed into the compressor housing so the broken bit is aligned perfectly to the housing.
    then the broken bit is tacked in place and the Y pipe is removed so the full heat of the rest of the welding can be done.

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