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Thread: Speedo stopped working

  1. #1
    gixer599's Avatar

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    Speedo stopped working

    Car has been in the garage for six weeks, brakes underbody, rails removed off of roof and respray, plus the dreaded MOT. picked her up today driving up the road and noticed the speedo and odometer wasn't working, any ideas where to start looking, mechanic seemed to think there was a sensor on the abs side of it, but I thought it was on the gearbox. It's back next week for him to repair.

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    Confused's Avatar

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    Speedo/odometer isn't driven off ABS sensors, so unlikely to be that.

    It comes from the gearbox, and probably through a KPH->MPH converter - my first guess would be that this converter has failed. This could be located in any number of places depending on who installed it - on top of the gearbox, behind the stereo, above the steering wheel etc - so it might be a bit of hunting to find it!

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    gixer599's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    Speedo/odometer isn't driven off ABS sensors, so unlikely to be that.

    It comes from the gearbox, and probably through a KPH->MPH converter - my first guess would be that this converter has failed. This could be located in any number of places depending on who installed it - on top of the gearbox, behind the stereo, above the steering wheel etc - so it might be a bit of hunting to find it!



    Ralliart official import so hoping they would have put them all in the same place, or is that too much to ask of them to do

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    They were all dealer fitted. Your best bet is to check behind the clocks but there is no guarantee I'm afraid.

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    gixer599's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mann View Post
    They were all dealer fitted. Your best bet is to check behind the clocks but there is no guarantee I'm afraid.
    Cheers Nick , will give it a go once I get the car started, looks like my coil packs or leads have gone car now won't start, starts on idle, press go pedal and coughs and splutters then dies. Teach me to lock her away for 5 years in the garage.

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    That's possibly a MAF issue. Try unplugging the MAF and see if the problem is better or worse.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mann View Post
    That's possibly a MAF issue. Try unplugging the MAF and see if the problem is better or worse.


    Unplugged, started briefly and then no go, so leads or coils it looks like. Speedo on evoscan coming up 24 speed sensor fault, so would the converter throw out that code or just the sensor. Five years off the road, two days on and no car again

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    Don't use Evoscan for reading fault codes - it is unreliable. Stick to the flashy dash method.

    The codes could point to something like a cam or crank sensor failure.

    If the EML code is indeed 24, this usually caused by the speed sensor wire being cut to remove the ~180kmh speed limiter.

    Failing any useful pointers from the codes, I would be looking for a massive air leak. And starting with the throttle body elbow which could be unseated, but looks fine when looking at it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by elnevio View Post
    Don't use Evoscan for reading fault codes - it is unreliable. Stick to the flashy dash method.

    The codes could point to something like a cam or crank sensor failure.

    If the EML code is indeed 24, this usually caused by the speed sensor wire being cut to remove the ~180kmh speed limiter.

    Failing any useful pointers from the codes, I would be looking for a massive air leak. And starting with the throttle body elbow which could be unseated, but looks fine when looking at it.
    Thanks Nev, looks like I'm going to have a busy weekend, but if it saves me over £500 for the coil packs then I'm happy, going to change the leads anyway as I got some Magnecor ones to fit.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by elnevio View Post
    Don't use Evoscan for reading fault codes - it is unreliable. Stick to the flashy dash method.

    The codes could point to something like a cam or crank sensor failure.

    If the EML code is indeed 24, this usually caused by the speed sensor wire being cut to remove the ~180kmh speed limiter.

    Failing any useful pointers from the codes, I would be looking for a massive air leak. And starting with the throttle body elbow which could be unseated, but looks fine when looking at it.


    Fitted magnecor leads, got spark at coil, cannot find any leads or pipes off. Got some easy start and she came alive on the easy start, so now looks like a fuel problem, pump comes alive when I activate it on evoscan which now leads me to the fuel filter, do our pumps prime/ make a sound when we turn the key Car? was sat for nearly five years, new fuel put in but there would have been some left in the bottom and in the pipes. so next thing is to find the fuel filter and car not in best position to work on it. Oh the joys of it.

  11. #11
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    Fuel filter is under the driver's side of the car. https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...he-fuel-filter

    You should hear the pump prime I think? If you lift up the rear seat base and remover the fuel pump access panel, you'll be able to hear much more clearly.

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    What Nev said, you should be able to hear the pump if you remove the rear seat base
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    Lifted seat, can't hear the pump activate. Is there a fuse or relay for it? I know about the relay on the bulkhead that drops the voltage, but I believe that only kicks in once started, or am I wrong?

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    I too thought that the pump primed at key on, but another vehicle I was helping out with the other day didn't do it, either. So, that might be a red herring!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    I too thought that the pump primed at key on, but another vehicle I was helping out with the other day didn't do it, either. So, that might be a red herring!

    I never remembered hearing it, but I wouldn't listen for it. my Kia rio I can hear, but that's because I went out to check that to see. Running out of ideas now, been off road five years now, thought it was done, ran perfect for two days and now just won't start.

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    I can now hear my fuel pump, I either need an hearing aid or they are quite, about to attempt to change filter, car on a slope, can't jack it up and got about two foot clearance on drivers side. This is going to be fun

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  18. #18
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    IFS Ignition fail sensor.
    Its on the front rocker cover just left of the oil filler cap.
    If it fails the car won't start ad you won't have a rev counter.
    also there are two types of Kmp to mph convertors one type plugs into the gearbox and the sensor then plugs into it, the other is a small 3cm x 2 cm x 1 cm with two wires that can be under the dash or behind the clocks.

    You can bypass the IFS by bridging pins 3 & 4. if the sensor ids faulty this will allow the car to start (as you have bypassed it), but the Tacho still won't work if the ifs is bridged.

    they are about £30 quid try ebay or viamoto uk

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    Just read through some more, if it idles but stalls, then air leak, or hot start solenoid poss, but a small vacuum pipe or big pipe not clamped, also check cam cover breather pipes

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    gixer599's Avatar

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    Well car started today, ran smoothly for about two minutes, coughed and spluttered and now back to stage one, so now really don't know. Really strong smell of petrol on start up, so back to checking all pipes are on and no leaks anywhere. Really with it now.

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