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Thread: Oil advice and recommendations here

  1. #21
    abdielhiram's Avatar

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    10w30 for a 2.5 V6 -24V should be ok? also full synthetic for the AT.. how many liters and any specs for this one?

  2. #22
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    Hello Mr Oilman - can you please tell me what engine oil I would need for a:

    1986 E28 BMW 525e (that's the 2.7L one)

    as well as what ATF to use for its auto trans?

  3. #23
    Opie Oils's Avatar

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    A good 10w-40 semi synthetic, regular changes. Or as a trat a 5w-40 synthetic.

    For the ATF you can go all out on the synthetic Fuchs Titan ATF 3353, though a good Dexron III which is much cheaper is also suitable.

    Have a look here http://www.opieoils.co.uk

    Cheers

    Guy.
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  4. #24
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    Hi Oilman , I've got a 96 Galant GT Sports with the 2.0L V6 24v twin turbo .
    I only use it on weekends and probably do less than 5k a year in it. It makes a bit of a tapping noise for several minutes after start up which I understand may be the lifters ?
    I understand you say I could either use 0/30w or 10/30w . Which would be better for my circumstances ? Also would your engine flush clean any of the sticking parts ?
    I have to say I have used several other brands of flush without much improvement !

    Thanks
    Geoff

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    mitsi main dealers in sheffield told me they would service the vr4 with mobil one 0w40.i changed the oil myself but wasnt paying stupid money for mobil one. so i rang up a friend of mine who is a very good mechanic and he said that he had seen tests on valvoline and as far as he was concerned it was as good as anything out there,so thats what i used at 0w40 spec and it was 20 quid a gallon less than mobil. filter was 12 quid from dealers so complete oil change for 48 quid and half a litre left for any top ups that might be needed. BS

  6. #26
    Opie Oils's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by bensonsnuts
    Hi Oilman , I've got a 96 Galant GT Sports with the 2.0L V6 24v twin turbo .
    I only use it on weekends and probably do less than 5k a year in it. It makes a bit of a tapping noise for several minutes after start up which I understand may be the lifters ?
    I understand you say I could either use 0/30w or 10/30w . Which would be better for my circumstances ? Also would your engine flush clean any of the sticking parts ?
    I have to say I have used several other brands of flush without much improvement !

    Thanks
    If you want to try and keep the tapping noise down have a look at a good ester based synthetic 5w-40.

    Silkolene Pro S 5w-40 is very good.

    Cheers

    Guy

  7. #27
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    Question

    Hey there oilman,
    im changing the radiator on my 1997 legnum vr4 in a couple of weeks, and figured it may be a good time to change the ATF at the same time.

    Ive read the article on how to change the fluids, and it recomends i get 15 litres of ATF as i dont think its been changed for a while.

    As i dont use the car for any track days, only drive it short distances at weekends and its not modified in any way, is there a cheaper alternitive than spending £180 on 15 litres of amsoil ATF??

    Look forward to your reply

    Cheers Pete.

  8. #28
    Kieran's Avatar

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    Pete - check the club Discount thread - it'll save you some cash

    http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13815

    You must use a fluid that meets Mitsubishi's Diamond SP-II standard (or better, SP-III is also okay). That leaves you with a somewhat Narrow choice...

    Mitsubishi OEM
    Amsoil
    And I think Motul do a SP-II compatible ATF these days?

    There is another option.... Some Hyundai Transmissions are Mitsubishi based and use the same fluid, though obviously branded Hyundai SP-III rather than Mitsubishi. Maybe that's a route to try? I don't know if Hyundai Dealerships will sell their ATF over the counter though.

    Don't be tempted to use a fluid that only meets Dexron II/III or Mercon standards... Initially it'll SEEM okay, but your gear changes will get rough quite quickly and there's an increased risk of failure.

  9. #29
    Opie Oils's Avatar

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    If you want one that meets the correct spec then they are not cheap, reason for this is they are synthetic.

    There is another one from Motul that is a bit chepaer then the Amsoil here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-906-motu...smissions.aspx

    Cheers

    Guy

  10. #30
    Opie Oils's Avatar

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    Any advice on oil required, please feel free to ask as I can help you

    You will also find some useful info on my website here

    http://www.opieoils.co.uk/oil-and-fi...itsubishi.aspx

    All the best for 2009

    Cheers
    Guy

  11. #31
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    Handy little applet that is However there's a few corrections that you should make.

    I've checked the recommendations for 'Galant VR-4 1999-03' and 'Galant V6 1997-03' - However any 8G (1997-03) Galant listing should take the following into account:

    The Manual Gearbox recommendations:
    • Motylgear
    • Fuchs TitanGear
    • Castrol Syntrax

    These should be revised. These are all API GL4/5 oils according to the information posted and the factory fill is a straight GL4 oil; This is one of those areas where 'upgrading' from the factory recommendation causes problems - We've found that GL-5 and GL4/5 oils don't allow the syncromesh rings to work properly - resulting in awkward changes and eventually knackered syncro Rings. Same deal for the 'Upgraded' recommendations of Sintopoid, MobilLube1 and Redline Lightweight - They all appear to be GL-5 oils and again are likely to cause syncromesh problems.

    As a club we recommendation to use a GL-4 ONLY oil.

    Automatic Gearbox recommendations:

    Currently the applet recommends Fuchs Titan ATF 3353 - Looking at the datasheet this is a Dexron III oil. Again, this isn't the recommended spec (Of Mitsubishi SP-II or SP-III). We've found that Dexron III, whilst it does allow the gearboxes in these cars to function, it causes rough/hard shifts and it can also cause the lockup mechanism to shudder - If left unchecked this eventually knackers the clutch packs in the boxes.

    As a Club we only recommend to use an ATF meeting the mitsubishi standard; For some years that's meant a choice of Mitsubishi (if you can get it) or Amsoil ATF - Though by now there may be some other brands producing a suitable fluid?

    Hope you find that useful

  12. #32
    Opie Oils's Avatar

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    Even though the FUCHS ATF 3353 is not SP-II or SP-III it is synthetic. Many Dexron III oils are not synthetic and these are the ones I assume that cause some of the problems. All the SP-II and SP-III oils are synthetic, just like the ATF3353. Fuchs say its ideal.

    Cheers

    Guy

  13. #33
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    Another ATF for our Tiptronics:

    Castrol Transmax Z

    Widely used in Poland in Galants with good results.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by oilman
    Even though the FUCHS ATF 3353 is not SP-II or SP-III it is synthetic. Many Dexron III oils are not synthetic and these are the ones I assume that cause some of the problems. All the SP-II and SP-III oils are synthetic, just like the ATF3353. Fuchs say its ideal.
    It still doesn't meet the required spec though. Synthetic or not, Dexron III fluid has different frictional characteristics to the Mitsubishi SP-II/III standard - It's well known in the states as Chrysler have used Mitsubishi Autoboxes in the past As have Hyundai, Kia and Proton. None of them recommend Dexron for the reasons I've already cited.

  15. #35
    Opie Oils's Avatar

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    Interesting, its fuchs that says its okaydokey. Myself I always recommend the Amsoil ATF or the Motul Multi ATF.

    Cheers

    Guy

  16. #36

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    anything wrong with castrol automatic transmission oil? does it work well in the legnum vr4? cheers.. it's just the easiest to get hold of

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by thfelipeth
    anything wrong with castrol automatic transmission oil? does it work well in the legnum vr4? cheers.. it's just the easiest to get hold of
    Depends which flavour Castrol oil matey - If it meets the Mitsubishi SP-II or SP-III spec, it'll work fine. If it's a Dexron III fluid...Don't bother!

  18. #38

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    No it isn't!

    In NZ you just walk into any mitsi dealership and get a box of SP3. How can getting the castrol be any easier than that?

  19. #39
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    As said before:
    Castrol Transmax Z is OK for Tiptronic autos.

    And bit cheaper than Amsoil ATF, don't know how's the difference (price) with original Mitsi oil.

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks
    As said before:
    Castrol Transmax Z is OK for Tiptronic autos.

    And bit cheaper than Amsoil ATF, don't know how's the difference (price) with original Mitsi oil.
    Is it this stuff Swinks?

    http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...Transmax_Z.pdf

    If it is, then I would NOT recommend it. Yes, it may well work but it too is a Dexron fluid and doesn't meet the Mitsubishi specification.... As said above, long term this can cause issues.

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