AYC Diff

[Pizza]

Does the Clutch Pack fluid need to be changed at the same time as the AYC fluid? I know that both are ATF fluid but are the systems connected in that if i tell them to change my AYC fluid it will also change the Clutch pack fluid as well. i took my car today to my Mitsu shop because I am having this same crunching noise (only on slow left turns) and I mention changing Clutch pack fluid and they dont seem to have any clue as to what I am talking about.

They say there is only draining the AYC fluid and draining the Gearbox fluid and anyone who says that there are three places to be filled do not know what they are talking about. I am going to print off a few of these posts and show it to them when I pick the car up but I am confused and worried.

So back to the original question Can I carry the car to someone else and have them change just the Clutch Pack fluid or does it have to be done in the same precise manner as the Hydraulic side of the AYC system?

[Jimbo]

Clutch Pack fluid is on the diff, is a doddle to change, and doesn't need any special equipment. It is different to the AYC hydraulic fluid, although they are both ATF - this you fill from the cap on the RHS of your boot and ideally needs a special bleeding tool to ensure no airlocks.

I'd be rather concerned about your dealer, just as I was rather concerned about mine!

[Pizza]

Thanks jimbo for the response. I think I will have someone else do it if It doesn't require any special tools or procedures. Do you know where I could find a pick of the right bolt to pull for the Clutch Pack?

[richy rich]

pizza the rear dif has atf only stamped on it clearly both drain and fill.

there is a write up on here some where.

[Pizza]

Tell me are the Evo and VR-4 AYC systems the same because I was just speaking to the manager/owner and was trying to get the info across. I was told he does not care what anyone says because he has been in the business for over 20 years and they have worked on X number of Evos and he has pulled down ayc systems and built them and also worked on my car when the previous owner had it and there is no separate filling of the clutch pack.

I can draw several conclusions from this.

(1) I need to find another mechanic

(2) This car has never had it's Clutch pack fluid replaced (since the previous owner had the car serviced there)

(3) It sucks to be living in the 3rd World

(4) Begs the question how many peoples Diffs have been pulled apart at this shop when it could just have been as simple as a fluid change in the right place.

Anyway I just wanted to know what to point to when I pick up the car tomorrow. I realize that he has already made up his mind and really has no intention of listening objectively to what anyone has to say.

[richy rich]

i bet you still have them same problem when you get it back

[Pizza]

I'm sure of it. Right now I would just like to get it out of there but he's doing some other straight forward things on it for me.

Just to make sure... the above info applies to both the Manual (which mine is) and the auto right?

[Kieran]

I'm sure of it. Right now I would just like to get it out of there but he's doing some other straight forward things on it for me.

Just to make sure... the above info applies to both the Manual (which mine is) and the auto right?

Your car is a Type-S and not a Type-V, isn't it? Looking at your profile, you have a 1998 car.... Is it a facelift? Does it have the light-up dash with the AYC bars on it?

[Nick Mann]

I have worked on pre and post face lift VR4's. There are three fluids in an ayc system. There is a gear oil in the rear diff. A clutch pack fluid in the rear diff. And a hydraulic fluid controlling the clutch pack. If your dealer says that these three systems do not exist, he is either stupid or untrustworthy.

There is a good write up in the articles section, but you need to join the club to get into the members section.

[amsoil]

I was told he does not care what anyone says because he has been in the business for over 20 years and they have worked on X number of Evos and he has pulled down ayc systems and built them and also worked on my car when the previous owner had it and there is no separate filling of the clutch pack.

.

This reminds me of what was written but one Carrol Smith who wrote some of the very best books on suspension set ups and handling.
It was given as an example of what often happens when you try and query something you think might not be right. The final outcome is always the same .... you walk. Best to use other peoples experiences and do it straight away as its less painful and expensive!

[Kieran]

Your car is a Type-S and not a Type-V, isn't it? Looking at your profile, you have a 1998 car.... Is it a facelift? Does it have the light-up dash with the AYC bars on it?

Sorry - ignore that. I've just looked at your PhotoBucket page and you can CLEARLY see the AYC bars on your dash! I agree with what's already been said in this case.... Look elsewhere - you just know the job won't be done right otherwise!

[richy rich]

take this pic to your dealer and show him and tell him to shove his 20years up his @rse.

back to you problem 1 Q when going round slow left hand bends, is this with ayc active, IE do any of the green lights come on if so ayc problem if not i don't think it is a ayc problem id suggest it is more likely to be a wheel bearing.

[EdmundVR4]

Great info here. Thanks guys.

[Pizza]

Thanks for all the help folks. I intend to print off most of these comments and print the pic and show it to him. If he doesn't want to 'learn something new' then that's up to him and the future clients who will pay the price.

Sorry I was not on yesturday so missed some of the questions. To answer your question Richy Rich, Yes the AYC lights are on. As I said it normally happens after a spirated run ( I assume the heat of the fluids therefore has an impact) and when it is a very slow corner usually only 1 AYC light light ups and interestingly it's usually on a corner that when all is well they never come up on.

Thanks for the pic. Love it but could someone show me/tell me in relation to the pic where is the AYC Clucth 'FILL' point.
I assume the point that says 'Diff Fill' is Gear Oil.

[Nick Mann]

Thanks for the pic. Love it but could someone show me/tell me in relation to the pic where is the AYC Clucth 'FILL' point.
I assume the point that says 'Diff Fill' is Gear Oil.

Off the top of the photo and yes!

Like I mentioned before, there is a good article in the members section detailing the procedure and showing more photos.

[andja]

I have had my diff apart twice now, the friction material on the clutches is black so as it breaks down it makes the clutch pack fluid go very black, this doesnt take long long if you drive it like you should, 5000 k's easy. The diff oils ,all three kinds, do get very hot and will make more noise when they are hot, my car had done 60,000 k's when i pulled the diff apart the first time and it was full of black crap, so you may have to change the fluid 2 or 3 times to sort it fully. I reccomend new oil seals as well these stop the different oils ( gear oil and ayc fluid) from cross contaminating. Good luck. P.S. mitsubishi dont know anything about these diffs, they treat them as a sealed unit!!!!

[Subaru ETA]

there must be more than one mechanic where you come form coz this dude is a complete tosser! tell him to open his eyes next time hes under your car. feel sorry for the x amount of evo owners!

[newvr4]

Hi there all.. can i start off by saying what a great site..

I have just purchased a 97 Legnum vr4 done 45000(genuine) km/s and am having problems with potentially the rear diff/rear running gear as well. At 60km/h 2000rpm the car shudders (no noise just vibration) and it seems to be coming from the rear right corner. i.ve changed the diff oil (it was very dirty) and the problem is still happening.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Nick Mann]

Are you sure it is not the gearbox? Search the site on gearbox shudder, especially if it only happens at low revs in 4th/5th gear.

[amsoil]

Best you join the club and help yourself to the vast knowledge these chaps have. You will get the joining fee back as soon as you get some oil (arrangements for a 10% discount have been made in NZ) never mind the savings and the ability to get that car running oh so swweeeetly.