Odd sound? or not an odd sound?

[-LegnumVR4-]

If the oil is black then either it hasn't been serviced in a long time or the oil that was used isn't very good. Cars dealers will do anything on the cheap and if the oil looked ok when they pulled out the dipstick then it ok for them. Friend has a manual 97 VR4 and i check his oil after 10000km from the dealer service, it was black so i'll be changing that for him tonight. I'll be using Mobil 1 sythnetic, giving it a flush too. I change my oil every 5000km and use sythnetic, it helps to protect the engine/turbos from wear. These cars are driven and after 5000km of loving the car it did'nt feel as smooth as the first oil change, you can feel it as the car idles. Once i did the flush and oil change the car runs very smooth.

AYC oil is meant to changed and bleed every 20000km. Just get Mitsubishi to check your AYC oil, they'll will tell u if it's ok or not. The AYC has to be computer bleed by Mitsubishi.

[BraindG]

Then its reflashed, using computer geeky language. They download latest revision and flash your ecu...

[BraindG]

Originally posted by H.7
From the MLR FAQ section, slightly modified to cater for the V6 and from personal experience - there's a known problem that affects all hydraulic tappet cars:

Symptom:
A noticeable ‘ticking’ noise from the top of the engine. Usually appears when starting the engine from cold but can persist.

Problem and Cure:
The noise is caused by air being trapped in the Lash Adjuster INSERT INTO post VALUES (Hydraulric Tappet). Normally the high-pressure chamber in the Lash Adjuster should contain oil but due to various reasons INSERT INTO post VALUES (listed below) the oil drains away leaving only air present. This causes the adjuster to become compressed. The compressed adjuster does not take up the clearance between the roller rocker and the cam lobe correctly when the valve is opening meaning a ‘ticking’ can be heard. It may take a short period for the air to be expelled after starting the engine so some ‘ticking’ noise is acceptable however, if the noise lasts for a long period or doesn’t go away at all then there maybe a problem.

Air can be trapped in the adjuster due to several reasons that are listed below:

Low oil level.
Incorrect grade of oil used INSERT INTO post VALUES (too thin or thick).
Old oil INSERT INTO post VALUES (debris in the oil may block an adjuster).
If the car is stood for a long period or if it is stood on an incline INSERT INTO post VALUES (the oil will drain from the adjusters).
Over filling the engine with oil INSERT INTO post VALUES (if the oil level reaches the crank it may churn air into the oil that will migrate to the lash adjusters).
If the tappet noise does not disappear soon after start up INSERT INTO post VALUES (5-10 seconds); switch off, then restart and listen again. If that doesn't work, then try some mild racing of the engine. Gradually increase the engine speed to 3000rpm INSERT INTO post VALUES (over 30 seconds) and then gradually decrease it back to idle INSERT INTO post VALUES (again over 30 seconds). Repeat this roughly 10 times. If the tappet noise disappears then the air has been expelled from the Lash Adjusters and they are working normally again. It is worth checking your oil level and condition as that maybe the cause of the air entering the Lash Adjusters in the first place. Change your oil if in doubt. Make sure you use the correct grade of oil as going too thick or thin can make matters worse. Mitsubishi quote 10W30 as the correct grade of oil to use. If an oil change makes no difference then the adjusters are either blocked, worn INSERT INTO post VALUES (spring inside becomes weakened) or damaged and will require cleaning or possible replacement. Garages will normally replace them as it is more cost effective than cleaning and usually they will replace the whole set of 24. A competent home mechanic can clean or replace the Lash Adjusters. If in doubt consult your servicing agent.

Approximate cost of repair:
Oil change = £30-£50
New Lash Adjusters are approximately £20 each inclusive INSERT INTO post VALUES (fitting approx. 2-6 hours depending on the number to replace)

Brian

This is one for the Info page, seems a fairly common issue...

Brind, dont delete you mp3 file, or mail it me.. i could use it as and example.. "bad" -> "good"

cheers

[Brind]

Originally posted by BraindG
Then its reflashed, using computer geeky language. They download latest revision and flash your ecu...

Christ, if they couldn't be bothered to simply replace the engine oil INSERT INTO post VALUES (if that is the case); you can bet your life they haven't bothered with the hassle of the AYC oil and ECU reflashing etc.:rolleyes:

Like I said, they aren't going to like me if this is the case!

Braind G, I can send you a better version of it if you like, obviously a much larger file, I don't do it often to know the best way to do it apart from making the file small..

I recorded it with my camcorder, and filmed under the bonnet at the same time, you can have that if you like it's about 20mb in an average quality.

[BraindG]

email me at barry@clubvr4.co.uk

should go through

[Brind]

I can't email large files, so I've uploaded it instead.

The original footage I made was over 133mb but it is excellent quality.
I've managed to get it down to just over 9mb I hope it's okay, but it is CD quality sound!

I thought it would be easier to hear if you could see the engine aswell.

You can right click and save as here .

Can I be an important looking moderator for this?

[Petrolhead]

Ummmmm, mine make that ticking noise too :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

pretty loud at start up for about a minute, the gets quiet. It then comes and goes completely, and if I rev to about 2500 it dissapears, but returns on idle again.

D.

[Roadrunner]

From experience, make sure your oil's at the correct level - the noise disappears much quicker

[Brind]

Hello Petrolhead, I've found a few pictures of you car on the MLR, very nice!

You have that sound aswell? how many miles has yours done?

I hope they sort the problem as it spoils the car, apart from the noise it is stunning, I don't want people thinking I've killed it or something.

[Brind]

Originally posted by H.7
From experience, make sure your oil's at the correct level - the noise disappears much quicker

You saying that, I had a brief look yesterday INSERT INTO post VALUES (although she was at normal temperature still) and I thought then it was too high, which is why I had a look today and noticed how black it was, which after only 500 miles is impossible!!!

[BraindG]

if it was clean to start with...

[Brind]

It was 500 miles ago when it SHOULD have been replaced when it had its proper main dealer service interval including AYC oil.:INSERT INTO post VALUES (

[Roadrunner]

In my experience, the oil does go black really quickly. I do a lot of miles, so the oil is changed every 8 weeks :eek: but it's still black for most of the time.

I recall reading something on the MLR months ago about this issue - I'm pretty sure it affects all Mitsubishis, not just VR-4s, but I can't remember the technical solution precisely, other than it involved flushing and filling the engine with one type of oil, running it for around 50 miles, draining that oil and refilling with normal fully synthetic and seeing if it fixed the problem. If not, do it again. Seemed to me like too much effort for no gain ....

I can't be bothered fighting through all the drivel on the MLR these days to try to get to the good technical stuff, which is why this forum is SO GOOD! :cool:

Brian

[Brind]

Originally posted by H.7
In my experience, the oil does go black really quickly.

Brian

Really!! :eek: that surely can't be good.

I got in contact with the dealer I bought it from today, and they said they will come and collect it, sort the problem and drop her home again, so it sounds hopeful.

I don't care if they have to replace the tappets and adjusters, I want it perfect, it's only done 48,500.

They were very helpful though, and didn't give me any crap, so hopefully all will be okay.

Thanks alot for all the replys guys, it seems this place is a godsend.:cool1:

[Ailsa]

Hi Brind,

Where on MLR did you see pictures of Petrolheads car? We weren't aware there was pictures of it on there thats why I'm wondering!

Oh - and good luck getting the car fixed! Find out what they do and let us all know if it works. Getting rid of our tappy noise would be a good thing!

Cheers,
Ails

[Brind]

Hiya Ailsa,

I can't honestly remember where I saw them on the MLR.
There was 3 on there and I'm sure I found another on The Galant Centre.
The 3 on MLR had the plate obscured while the one the other site was left for all to see.

I remember the car because I saved the pictures, and they were what twisted my arm to get one.

[Ailsa]

:headsc: Not quite sure how the got there....

But Glad to be of service all the same! :wiggle:

[landy]

Interesting...
My engine makes a tapping noise too.
It had only done 7000 miles INSERT INTO post VALUES (13000 now) and is a 1998 model.
The dealer thought nothing of the noise though ??!!
evil2:

[Brind]

Ailsa,
One of them has 'SS-R' written in the bottom left corner if that helps?
I can post the pictures if you want to see if you even took them?


Hiya landy,
Yours has done it from 7000? was the oil changed at 4500 miles?
Did you hear the sound file I posted? because if you listen carefully you can hear the fuel injectors aswell but they aren't as loud as the tappet sound but is normal.

My car is being taken back up to the dealer on Tuesday and looked at on Wednesday, hopefully they can stop the noise by any means possible..
But I will report back when I find out what they do.. if anything.
It really is that loud. :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

[Brind]

All done!!!

It's running perfectly, quiet as a dicky bird.
Don't know what they did, but I made some marks on the bolts around the head so I'd know if it was removed, but none of them have.
So I'll take a wild guess and say they have just flushed the engine through several times.

Whatever it was it's okay now.