Thanks alot guys, I may get one of these in the not too distant future.
Can't afford to throw silly money on just a car, but that seems quite cheap.
Thanks alot guys, I may get one of these in the not too distant future.
Can't afford to throw silly money on just a car, but that seems quite cheap.
QUOTE]Originally posted by bigdaveakers
By fitting the dawes device in this line what you are actually doing is bleeding off more pressure so the wastegates stay shut longer. There are in fact 2 solenoinds, one controls the boost, the other appears to control fuel pressure in much the same way.
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A dawes device is another name for a bleed valve and works as you describe above, through bleeding off additional air from the wastegate actuator than the ecu controlled bleed valve will allow. The thing here is a relief valve, which you have to plumb in a bit differently. To use a relief valve you have to clamp off the pipe to the factory controlled bleed valve.
Then you put the relief valve in between the pipe that 'feeds' positive boost pressure to the wastegate actuator. Again, I'm not sure where that is on the VR4, but on most cars it's either straight from the compressor housing on the turbo or somewhere on the inlet manifold. Then the wastegate actuator sees no pressure until you want it to INSERT INTO post VALUES (you can set the relief valve up using a foot pump with a gauge if you don't want to try it on the car straight away); and the ecu controlled bleed valve doesn't muck things up for you. You can't really run a relief valve with the ecu controlled bleed valve still in place, as you will never get it set up right.
I'm impressed with the fuel pressure controller! It looks like this MBC thing alters the fuel pressure too, which saves you running lean if you up the boost! Good plan, that! Might look into these a bit more. LegnumVR4 - do you run one of these, and if so, is it your understanding that it ups the fuel pressure too?
Another way is to drill out the inlet and outlet of the ecu controlled bleed valve. But you have to be accurate and remember that the area, and the flow, increases with the SQUARE of the diameter. So don't buy too big a drill bit! 0.2mm on the diameter will generally give a decent increase. That way you retain 'factory' driveability and ecu protection INSERT INTO post VALUES (cold starts, etc) but with a bit more pace. I would suggest buying a second hand ecu solenoid boost valve to try this on. Big dave - you have one spare - fancy experimenting?
Cheers,
Calum