Excellent Info Valmes - Thankyou and have a reputation point!
Thank you Kieran...
Last edited by valmes; 13-05-2006 at 03:00 AM.
Best post ever ^^^^ give the man a round of applause
I thought I'd add in a few things too. One of the NZ members, You See has a full aftermarket Link computer and has removed the MAF completely. The stock cars make around 150-170kw ATW depending on the boost they are running, at a recent dyno day we found some of the older cars running at higher boost levels, possibly due to a weakening in the actuators over time.
He started to run out of fuel with the stock fuel pump at 190kw ATW, and is running his injectors at 85% at the moment with just over 200kw ATW.
I think that Valme's listing of mods there is perfect. I'm doing it slightly differently myself, simply because I wanted to do it all in one go. I already have the vented bonnet and a full exhaust system from the turbo back.
The current list of upgrades to my car is:
A full replacement of all turbo pipes apart from the Y pipe, I was told it is fine for the stock turbos.
A 600x300x100mm intercooler, possibly a little large for our stock turbos, but fine for GT25R's
Iridium Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump, Batteries into boot, coooooold air feed into a sealed cold air box. All of these are essential, no point trying to do it without one.
Conversion to MAP. I thought the MAF was a waste of time and is only a restriction in the system.
Rising Rate Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, It increases fuel pressure with boost, which is a very good way to increase the flow, especially as I haven't changed my injectors. I hope that the increase in fuel pressure will mean I don't have to change the 390cc stock ones until I change turbos.
Blow Off Valve, the stock one is designed to leak air as a safety feature, I didn't want this at all so I've gone for a replacement.
Autotrans Oil Cooler, the auto boxes are crap, I figure with a cooler it might live for another 6 months or so before I change to an EVO 8 6 speed manual
And now for the grand finale, an Autronic SM4 full ECU that lets me remove the MAF, run on a wideband sensor for the engine, and because I have a computer running through the MMCS screen, I'll have a virtual dashboard on the MMCS screen that will look something like this: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14052
An important mod which I'm not doing at this stage is a phenolic inlet manifold gasket. The stock one gets very hot, up to 70C in traffic, and I do want to get one, I just haven't got around to ordering one from RPW yet. In a couple of months I'll get one installed with 2 EGT gauges, one for each bank, 2x AFR for each bank of cylinders, and hopefully the EVO 8 6 speed gearbox.
but when is it going to be finished I want one
Richard Batty
2.5ltr V6 Turbo FTO
Great thread this. Going straight into my favourites for ongoing and future reference.
Great posts Valmes, Zentac, Bradc. Just what a starter (n00b) like me needs.
Zentac, they are having some issues with my gearbox and the SM4, but they are making up an extra loom on monday, i'll pm you with more details.
bradc, thank you for bringing up some important points! I did forget to mention about by pass valve replacement, crank vents (or oil catch tank), running MAFless... edited my post to add some of that.
One thing I really wouldn't recommend is using rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
It gives you non linear fuel pressure to boost ratio. So in a sense you will get something like this:
Vacum - 390cc,
0,3 bar - 410 cc,
0,6 bar - 430 cc,
0,9 bar - 460 cc .... and so on.
Now in order to adjust your fuel you will have to recalculate for different boost, but it is not the worst of it... usually rising rate means at least 1:2 raise, so lets calculate. If you are boosting lets say 1 bar you will have 2 bars increase in a fuel pressure that comes to:
3 bar - base, plus 2 bars from RRFPR = 5 bars (73,5 psi) FP at 1 bar of boost!!!
Wow... apart from injectors ( you can overflow them only so much... its recommended not to exceed 10-15% of a rated flow) you will be putting a lot of stress on your fuel pump and as you can see from here http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm , the higher the pressure in the fuel rail (against which your fuel pump has to work) the less your fuel pump can supply, the more stressed your overflowing injectors will be!
So, IMHO, it is either AFPR with the linear output and raised base fuel pressure to allow a bit more flow and timing from your stock injectors or better yet upgraded injectors (although AFPR is still a good thing to have).
Last edited by valmes; 13-05-2006 at 05:37 AM.
Thats a long article, reading it now.
I know what you mean, but I thought that as long as you didn't go up too high that there wouldn't be much of a problem and that with a good ECU you should be able to get it all sorted. I didn't want to go for upgraded injectors at this stage, and I think that with a bit of an increase in pressure that I should be ok.
The link was a little bit off... it should end with a "htm" instead of "html". Corrected it.
Of course you can use RRAFPR, but it just doesn't give you anything over just AFPR... more headaches when you will try to get your injectors to work right and higher load to your fuel pump.
Pressure differential should be constant that way things are much easier.
Rewire your pump (that will allow for more volts, hence better flow) install AFPR, if everything works as was in my case – you will get those injectors flowing 438,5 cc, that should be enough until some point.
I take it yours is a Tip box then, they can be a pain in when you go fit after market ECU's as they need quite a few different signals from your original ECU.Originally Posted by bradc
Yeah it is. One possible option is leaving the old ecu in there and sending it signals such as speed and stuff, then sending that to the trans ecu. All the outputs from the stock ecu would be disconnected like the injectors and stuff. If it really won't work then I guess it will be evo8 6 speed time for me
You wouldn't have that problem if you had a real gearbox in the first place!
I think thats the way they got round it with the EVO GTA overhere.Yeah it is. One possible option is leaving the old ecu in there and sending it signals such as speed and stuff, then sending that to the trans ecu. All the outputs from the stock ecu would be disconnected like the injectors and stuff. If it really won't work then I guess it will be evo8 6 speed time for me
Richard, any chance you could post some links up? It's the main thing that is stopping me at the moment
no links just going on what Ive heard. Post up on the MLR www.lancerregister.com Im sure someone will be able to tell you on there as the main Autronics dealers in the UK use that site.
will do
Im currently doing some mods on my VR4, but I do have a company doing it for me, for the first time.
Allrighty, so the setup is basically:
2 TD04´s from 3000GT
Haltech E8 standalone ECU
Bigger injectors
Modified fuelrail
Custom intake manifold
Wallbro 255 in-tank fuelpump
Blitz BOV kit including a bit of piping
Greddy sprakplugs
OS Giken clutch
Custom hardpipes for IC, airfilter etc
3" exhaust with custom downpipes and muffler
Relocation kit for the oilfilter with custom oilfeedings
The biggest problem right now is getting the Haltech system to play with the engine they tell me.
Here´s some pics:
Hello mate,
The garage who are working on your car phoned me about this a couple of days ago and i gave them some pointers. There cant be many vr4's in stockholm with a haltech and having problems with the timing pick up!
The issue they will be having is the halltech ecu probably wont understand the mitsubishi crank angle sensor set up.
If it cant be configured to work on hall effect crank angle, then convert over to ford, and use a cossie trigger wheel. Pretty much all the ecu's understand that.
Cheers,
Ben.
yeapp, that´s my car.
That would be a solution to the problem. Dont know if the triggerwheel from a cossie would fit though. Haltech said that their software could handle a 3000GT´s triggerwheel so if haltech could modify the software to a VR4 signal, that would be great, dont know whats the most easy way to go. Anyways, the guys working on the car seem to know what they are doing.
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