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Thread: Which! Boost Controller?

  1. #21

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    I run a blitz dsbc, (its what they call the sbc spec R now.)

    Its fine to use, and produces stable boost for me, right up to 23psi. It will control actuators (as on std turbos) or wastegates if anyone has gone that far with aftermarket turbos.

    The unit itself is said to handle up to 36psi boost.

    My understanding of the advantage of dual solenoids over a single is that they can effectively 'pulse' twice as fast, meaning it gives a smoother curve.

    It doesnt lose its settings when you you disconnect the battery, and you can control the rate of boost increase as well as the ultimate boost pressure. Some ebc's do this, some dont. It has all the usual warning features like it beeps if you exceed a set boost limit, and you can program it to reduce boost by a % if you do exceed that value. Lots of other ebc's do that too.

    When i was getting it i was choosing between a Greddy, the Apexi avc-r and the Blitz. I went for the blitz because it offers direct control, ie i can define what i want to happen, it doesnt depend on a 'self learnt boost curve' as many of the Greddy units do, and although the apexi offers lots of cool features i really liked (eg boost variable by gear etc) it had a reputaion for spiking. The dsbc had a reputaion for a smooth curve (said to be due to the dual solenoids and hence faster pulsing) and higher boost capabilities as well as offering the warning/saftey capabilities.

    Cheers,

    Ben.

  2. #22
    colVR4's Avatar

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    Thanks for the info Ben.

    I have just taken delivery of a GReddy PRofec B-spec II ...yippee!!

    Now to the task of installing it. I have read the write up by Bern and I think I am up to the task. I am going to stick the unit in the cigarette holder on the right hand side of the console (I believe that this is a popular position).
    Hopefully I should get some time this weekend to attempt it, if not it will have to wait until next week and I am NOT a patient man.
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by colVR4
    if not it will have to wait until next week and I am NOT a patient man.
    Who isn't when there is more power screaming at you from a wee box on your table...

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  4. #24
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    I know...so much power from such a small box

    The wife has gone to the gym so I have just over an hour to get it in......

  5. #25
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    Ok, took me a little longer than an hour, but it is in. I just have to hook up the power (need to find the soldering iron....I know its around somewhere....I only used it the other week......grrrrr) and then I can start to experiment.

    Bern was not wrong about that little blighter of a spring clip down near the combined actuator rail thing. I am going to take it easy at first just to make sure that nothing is going to blow off, then its time to play

  6. #26
    colVR4's Avatar

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    woohoo!! All installed and I have been playing to get the best settings from it. I have managed to play around enough to get a steady 0.95 bar with it only spiking to about 1.1 bar on WOT through the gears.

    I haven't recorded a 0-60 yet but it feels a hell of a lot quicker and pulls so hard now from standstill. On the down side, all the playing has left me with an empty tank after only 130 miles.....ouch!!

  7. #27

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    Upping the boost really does help with that all important area between 3000rpm and 5000rpm where you do most of your normal driving doesn't it? Sounds like you had a lot of fun

  8. #28
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    oh I'm having fun alright. Already given a few cars a bit of a shock, wouldn't have dreamed of taking on a CL55 AMG before, but it took him a while to pull away from me

  9. #29
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    Come on colvr4.. get your 0-60 time up
    nice to see your having fun
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  10. #30
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    Excellent, theres nothing better than getting the boost up.. Only downside is going back to normal boost, its horrible.. the car feels so so slow..

  11. #31
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    Hi Col

    Must admit that I'm looking forward to running with more boost very soon - clutch being fitted this week by WRD


    Have fun

  12. #32
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    CRIKEY....

    Had my first hose blow off on me. I was pulling past a Toyota Celica GT sommat (old shape) when there was a huge farting noise and a complete loss of boost. I was right cacking meself thinking I had overdone the boost, although it hadn't hit the limiter....

    So, pulled over and lifted the bonnet and saw that the hard pipe to the throttle body had come off. Fortunately the rubber seal was still attached (just) and I managed to push the little blighter back on and get it to a garage that was 100m away and borrow a screwdriver to put it back on properly.

    I think I may have just forgotten to tighten it up properly when I was fitting it all back together, but I most certainly will be checking EVERY hose before I put it on max chat again.....

    I'm not going to post any 0-60 times until I am happy with the set-up of the boost controller. I am aiming for a sustained boost of 0.9 - 0.95 bar with the limited set to 1.1 bar. At the moment it is peaking around 1.15 but I think I can bring it under more control.

    The hi settings that I have at the moment are:

    set - 43%
    gain - 30%
    start boost (gain) - 0.85
    limiter - 1.10

    Anyone else got some figures to compare these with so that I know I am on the right track?

  13. #33
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    oh the infamous pipe, ive popped that loads of times now, but im sure Glenn still holds the record, using wood to wedge it into place - I was thinking about inventing some kind of ring to put between the plastic, and the rubber to help grip it to the throttle body. but, ive been pretty lazy and not done much more than think about it

  14. #34

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    Just some more info on the Blitz for anyone reading up.

    They do two versions of the Dual SBC. The Spec S has a single solenoid and the Spec R has twin solenoids. I (and several others) have happily used the Spec S for over 2 years now on two different VR4's.

    They are easy to set up (you can save 4 different settings), and I range from 0.8 to 1.0 bar. Sometimes get the odd spike but the safety cuts in and I just knock it back to one of my lower settings. The four settings are also useful when you get varying ambient temperatures which have a big effect. Recently at RT4 I forgot I only had the controller on my 2nd setting and was hitting 0.86 max, turned it up to my highest and stayed under 1.0 bar, but once the temperature drops it's easy to hit the safety.

    And as Ben rightly said they do not lose their settings when you disconnect the battery.

    Overall I would say they are excellent VFM, and the control unit fits nicely into the fag packet holder down by your right knee.

  15. #35
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    I didn't look when it came off but, is there a lip on the throttle body? If there were a lip it would certainly help keep the pipe on. I am wondering if there is some way I could make a lip using a blummin big hammer around the edge

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by colVR4
    I didn't look when it came off but, is there a lip on the throttle body? If there were a lip it would certainly help keep the pipe on. I am wondering if there is some way I could make a lip using a blummin big hammer around the edge
    Just go to Machine Mart and purchase some of there Jubilee clips.. They are top quality and you can tighten them Crushingly tight with a socket without them twisting or breaking.

  17. #37
    colVR4's Avatar

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    Thumbs up Will do

    Thanks for the tip Glenn.

    By the way, there is a lip on the throttle body inlet, so a jubilee clip put on good and tight should hold it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spirit
    Just some more info on the Blitz for anyone reading up.

    They do two versions of the Dual SBC. The Spec S has a single solenoid and the Spec R has twin solenoids. I (and several others) have happily used the Spec S for over 2 years now on two different VR4's.

    They are easy to set up (you can save 4 different settings), and I range from 0.8 to 1.0 bar. Sometimes get the odd spike but the safety cuts in and I just knock it back to one of my lower settings. The four settings are also useful when you get varying ambient temperatures which have a big effect. Recently at RT4 I forgot I only had the controller on my 2nd setting and was hitting 0.86 max, turned it up to my highest and stayed under 1.0 bar, but once the temperature drops it's easy to hit the safety.

    And as Ben rightly said they do not lose their settings when you disconnect the battery.

    Overall I would say they are excellent VFM, and the control unit fits nicely into the fag packet holder down by your right knee.
    Good info pete
    Can i ask why the spec r is so much more expensive

  19. #39

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    Literally for the twin solenoid feature, and of course will support higher boost - which we don't need.

    On eBay you can get a Spec S for £176 and a Spec R for £225 (both plus P+P) - the seller is 5400rpm and I bought mine from him ......arrived in 3 days !

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-BLITZ-DUAL...QQcmdZViewItem

  20. #40

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    On the buttons. Spec R has dual solenoids allowing it to hold more boost and to be able to pulse faster. (each solenoid going at only half the speed required of a single).

    Cheers,

    Ben.

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