Brakes

[malc]

Erm... sorry if Im going over old ground here, but I'm new 2 the forum, so pls b patient wivme!:wavey:

Three Q...
1) someone mentioned NOT using Green Stuff pads - why not? What do i need 2 know about these?
2) Does anyone else find the brakes pedal travel a bit long and soft 4 their liking? Theres nothing wroing with the stopping power of mine but I do prefer a harder/shorter pedal. Any suggestions?
3) chris G - how did u go on with your Gatso case? I have one of those 'get-u-off' books but not needed 2 try it yet, but it can only b a matter of time with all these cameras about. Ive also got a Road Angel with laser detector and its saved my bacon a few times.

[Brind]

Apparently the 'Green' Stuff pads aren't really up to stopping a car the size of a VR-4.
'Red' are alot better for heavier cars.
They claim the 'Red' work really well from cold where as many people who have them say they don't.

To me they appear to be trying to get the attention of boy racer type owners with their bodykit Novas etc?.

I don't really know as I don't have them.

[Roadrunner]

EBC Reds were the worst pads I've ever experienced! I had great expectations from them because they came highly recommended but they lasted 13 days :eek: on my car before they were trashed. Now, I'm not hard on brakes and that 13 days comprised around 1000 miles of normal road use and around 10 miles on a track day. I had to give up early on the track day because the brakes were so bad.

With the above use, the pads wore about 50% INSERT INTO post VALUES (compare that to the fact that the replacement pads INSERT INTO post VALUES (Ferodos) I put in after the Reds have now done 22,000 miles and two track days INSERT INTO post VALUES (around 100 miles) and still have around 30% left.

My problem with the Reds was that, in order to get ANY braking efficiency at all, they had to be really hot, and I couldn't keep them consistently hot even on track so I couldn't get any confidence in them at all. They'd bite hard for a couple of corners but, when I REALLY needed them coming down to the hairpin .... :rolleyes: bicycle clips anyone? :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

Consequently, on the road, they were just pure rubbish - could never get them hot enough to work confidently at all. When the pads were taken off the car, the material had also started to lift from the metal. Got my money back. Says it all really .... Wouldn't touch them again with a barge pole.

Brian

[calum]

If the pedal travel's long and soft you need the air bled out of your brake system. There is very little travel on my brake pedal.

Whilst you're at it, you might as well flush new fluid through - when was your fluid last chaanged?

A lot of people think brake 'fade' is caused by the pad/ discs being crap, but generally it's down to old fluid which has water and air in it. The air expands and the water boils and creates bubbles when the brakes are getting hot.

Changing it for new fluid helps. General rule - brake fluid should be changed every two years.

Calum

[malc]

Hi Calum, thanx 4 the advice

Ive had the system bled twice and new fluid bit it made no difference :mad:

And Ive changed the sliders and discs and pads, but still just the same.
Maybe it's ME!!! Maybe Im just too fussy! hehe

But i wondered about changing the master cylinder too...

Malc

[calum]

There shouldn't be that much travel in the pedal - have you bled it yourself and changed the fluid? Or are you trusting this job to somebody else?

There's less travel in the pedal of my VR4 than my GT4, although the brakes are much better at 'stopping' on the GT4 than the legnum. It really is down to having a good job done on bleeding the system.

The master cylinder will make a difference - but you shouldn't NEED to change it - the brakes should be adequate as std.

Calum

[Petrolhead]

When it comes to bleeding brakes, I always tend to have the car running during this procedure. I did it once on my Pug 306 without the engine running, and because they are servo assisted and ABS, it really didn't work very well.

You will understand what I mean if you press the brake pedal as you start the car, once the engine is running the pedal will go down further.

D.

[malc]

Thanx 4 your advice guys.

Ive had the brakes blead by a main dealer and by my fav local garage that specialises in EVo's and Scubies. On neiter occasion did it make any difference 2 the pedal whatsoever!
They both said they didnt notice any air and didnt feel that we'd achieved anything :Cry1:

I thought of changing the master cylinder, not to a diffferent model, just to a standard replacement just in case that was causing the problem.

But I guess wot i should REALLY do is drive another VR4 first!
Ive only driven my own and 4 all i know it may be the same as all of them!

malc

[Petrolhead]

Try wearing shoes with big thick soles Won't be as much travel that way :biglaugh: