no idea about that sort of thing, as long as the gears can handle the power
Yes quite a bit too short
whats a rough idea on how much this would cost.. and the amount of hassle it would be to get up and running?
Iv got pretty poor understanding on how the whole 4wd thing works, but if its not too hard to recitify the low gearing id be keen.
are we talking a couple of hundred bucks? or closer to 4 digits?
I'll certainly be interested to see how it works out
2/1/06
I would imagine that for the two or three gears needed it won't cost too much, the killer will be dismantling the engine bay and reassembling it.
Just two gears. One on the end of the lay shaft, one on the end of the output shaft. The output shaft gear is held by 10 bolts, IIRC and is simply undo the bolts, swap, and re-bolt. I'm not so sure about the lay shaft gear, it could be easy, but it may need pressing off.
I have no idea of cost of the gears, but it will cost 3 figures to fit it if you pay someone else. I will try and fit it myself, assuming I can afford the gears in the first place.
Seeing that WRD do Gearbox repairs maybe this is something they can look at , problem being I only have one gearbox and for some reason I need that .
May PM Mo and see if he has any knackered or not to try and get a price on the parts etc
Kanji Automotive Solutions - Looking after your Pride and Joy
Servicing - Upgrades - Tuning - Pre Used Parts - Undersealing - Advice - Consultancy
PM or Call me for any work requests or to discuss your requirements
Ebay Shop -> http://stores.ebay.co.uk/sun-wizzard...=p4634.c0.m322
To contact the CVR4 Staff please see HOW TO: Contact Committee or Moderators
John, I have a gear box sitting on the garage floor. If we need to check the procedure, we can always do it on that? If so, it should be a job that can be done within a weekend.
Nick, seeing as you have a manual gearbox that isn't in your car, do you think you could get those 2 gears out, and get all of the details up here so we can figure out how many teeth we want to add or remove from each one?
Brad - I can do, but the problem is not that simple. If you just add one tooth to one gear and take one away from the other they will no longer mesh. Simple maths will tell you that. You will need to change the angle of the teeth or the size of the teeth as well. All the engineering company will need to know is the width of the gears, the distance between the two center points, the mounting method and the ratio. I can't tell them any of that accurately.
right, gotcha. Do you think you could remove the two gears and take them to an engineering shop? We can figure out the ratio we will get quite easily by changing the number of teeth, so that won't be a problem.
I hate to be neg on this, but you will be affecting the whole gearing of the car, as I'm sure you're aware. Trouble is, you could end up losing acceleration and actually using more fuel, although in the latter case, the lower revs may compensate for this to a degree. The biggest problem would be the actual pulling away. As your individual gear ratios will stay the same, the overal effect of the longer diff will be higher overall ratio. So just try pulling away now (as standard) in second gear, especially if loaded and on a hill and that is the type of thing you may experiance. The clutch won't like it much either. Four wheel drive cars are always slighty shorter legged than 2 wheel equivelent to overcome the extra drag of the system. Auto's are indeed slightly longer legged, but of course the T/C allows slip at lower speed/gear so that engine reaches a higher rev to produce more power in that situation.
Just something to think about - hope it helps.
Now, if you were to considerably increase engine output first......................
I agree Andy, but we are not talking about huge changes here. Just a few MPH in first and second. And acceleration is relative. If you need one less gear change to reach your goal (One example being 60mph) then you could save far more than you lose. And how far is considerably? I have been measured at 350ish torque.
Of course that is correct Andy, but if you hold onto each gear for that little bit longer then it will even out versus the drop in torque of changing to the next gear with the normal final drive. I don't think that me or Nick will have a problem with making enough power though
There's no doubt that the extra torque developed by the uprated engines you have will of course offset this somewhat, and yes, I hear what you say about one less gearchange to a given point. Just wanted to point out what pitfalls could occur as I did similar things by swapping diffs on rear wheel drive fords (yeah ok ole git I know!!)
Yep, thanks Andy. All info is welcome! I did consider the longer ratio = fewer g's point of view but decided in first especially, and to a certain extent in second, it wouldn't matter much.
What did you change ratios by and with what power?
Hmmm long time ago, but the figures 3.9/1, 3.7/1 and 3.4/1 ring a bell somewhere along the way. Power wasn't huge, but various incarnations of Ford V4 and V6. I seem to remember the V6 being extremely versatile and made light work of most things. It was a 3.0lt essex variety with various mods, but just what the power was I have no idea now. ( don't think I knew then eitherOriginally Posted by Nick Mann
I could measure them up if needed C.M.M at work at my disposal
No longer a VR4 owner
Stuart, could you get the gears made up too?
Just for your attention...
I could not do it my self but could try the places that we use through work
So they were either pulling 7900rpm in that VR-4 to reach 303kmh, or they had a different final drive. Can you shed any light on that Valmes?
Stuart, would you have access to the two gears needed? If not could someone in the UK maybe organise a spare set to go to you?
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
