Speaker Queries

[Nick Mann]

Eh? But the voice coil should fit into a groove in the magnet? Or has speaker manufacture changed since I was a lad?

[HMG1K]

What it seems to be is a metal cased surround that can be mounted flush fit... on the other side is the tweeter built in to the metal surround, wires soldered to this, and the magnet is held in place my plastic clips and black tough tack - like blue tack. So just the magnet popped out the back

[steve the pirate]

I have gone for JL audio components in front and coax in rear doors.the shop I used said that not to use speakers on rear shelf with a sub in boot cos the air moved by the sub will push against the smaller speakers and could rip the cones apart.I replaced all doors even though not many people in the back yet.£330 in front,£250 in rear doors.I have a JL w1v2 12 " sub in a std sub box with a perfect match a1200 amp.despite the low power rating of 120w amp and 150w sub it really kicks when the right music is played.I listen to all sorts from abba to 60s,70,80 to rock,metal,gothic.I am still running in but I am very happy.

[HMG1K]

Cheers Steve... Do you know what components / tweeter model number you have in the front? I'm guessing your tweeters are in the existing housing on the corner of the door in the pods?

[n13l pm]

What it seems to be is a metal cased surround that can be mounted flush fit... on the other side is the tweeter built in to the metal surround, wires soldered to this, and the magnet is held in place my plastic clips and black tough tack - like blue tack. So just the magnet popped out the back

Im have problems trying to understand this.. The magnet popped out of the back! Can you take some photos mate to clear things up.

[HMG1K]

Here are photos of the tweeters and the magnet...

[HMG1K]

They would be fine to replace the stock ones.

Once you remove the door card you will see the cover for the tweeters still in place, remove these, its just a matter of a few clips. Once removed you will see the tweeter mounted on a bracket, you will need this bracket to mount your new tweeters so you will have to remove it. There are three bolts keeping it in place, I think these are the mirror plate ones so careful. After you remove the bracket you will need to take the tweeter off, if I believe correctly, there is a screw on the back of the bracket which screws in to the tweeter aswell as glue. After that just glue your new tweeter to the bracket and remount. Use a strong epoxy glue or something, because glue gun wont do the job.

I had one small problem when I did mine, the aftermarket tweeters are slightly bigger in size because of the moulding around the tweeter and therefore the covers wouldnt go directly back on, I had to slightly reshape the bracket.

Hope this helps.

This is invaluable advice and tip! I took the door card off yesterday - all the above made sense - and now can see how to replace them!

The good news is the Kenwood tweeters I got will fit into the car's tweeter cover, even with the Kenwood surround!

Thank you!

[Nick Mann]

Does the "broke" one still work? Even with pictures I don't understand the design of it!!

[HMG1K]

That one in the photos still works... I know, it is confusing!

The housing in the first picture (the tweeter from the front) is black metal - on the reverse is where the wires are soldered onto in the small groove that runs around the inside (photo 2) between the inner and outer ring... Photos 1, 2 and 3 show the tweeter and magnet in various postions - this is then 'stuck' with black-tac around the edges and bonds with the inner ring of the mounting unit in photo 2 - the black 'eye' of the tweeter then rests on the silver 'eye' in the unit.

[n13l pm]

Good news they fit mate, glad the advice help.

Im with Nick on the tweeters, I dont understand the design..

[HMG1K]

Just updating this thread for the benefit of future 'searches'

I've recieved the 1/4" plastic speaker spacers I bought off a guy in America off eBay and they are a perfect fit!

They'll work on the rear parcel shelf of a saloon (not sure what the rear door of an estate is like) and also the front doors of a saloon & estate. (The auctions are for Lancers and FTOs etc - but it is the same fitmet as ours).

Image and link is below - I can now drop my 17cm Pioneers straight into the adapters and the holes match up to the bodywork, and the speakers to the mounting holes on the spacers.

I know a lot of you have got around this in different ways, but I was being lazy about it and took the easy way out!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6-Front-Speake...QQcmdZViewItem

[n13l pm]

Glad they fit mate . That link saves a lot of time and effort for anyone looking to upgrade their rear speakers.

[CANDEE]

If they fit the front of the saloon's etc they should fit the rear of the estates fine as they are identical - ie i have my rear ones in the front of my leggie atm

[d i c k i e s]

lol... im sure my back ones have finally popped!

[CANDEE]

Just fade it to the front Whenz.. Who needs rears

[HMG1K]

And here is the final photo - one of my new Pioneer TS-E 1796's fitted on the rear parcel shelf complete with the speaker size adapter I got from America...

Moments later the car's speaker grills were screwed back into place...

Next up are the fronts - when I get time!

[n13l pm]

Nice mate. Dunno if you want to but when I did mine I lamped a bit of deadening material between the baffle and the shelf and some between the speaker and the baffle, in case of any rattling.

[HMG1K]

Nice mate. Dunno if you want to but when I did mine I lamped a bit of deadening material between the baffle and the shelf and some between the speaker and the baffle, in case of any rattling.

Thanks mate! Did just that!

On top of the car's metal parcel self I stuck Dynamat (it's the brown with a bit of blue writing to the top of the speaker)... Then I put the ultra thin foam surround from the factory fit speakers on top of that for the new speaker adapter to sit on (it's what the factory fit speaker sat on originally)... Finally the gap between the new speaker adapters and the speaker itself was filled with a foam spacer cushion that came with the Pioneers!

[n13l pm]

Thanks mate! Did just that!

On top of the car's metal parcel self I stuck Dynamat (it's the brown with a bit of blue writing to the top of the speaker)... Then I put the ultra thin foam surround from the factory fit speakers on top of that for the new speaker adapter to sit on (it's what the factory fit speaker sat on originally)... Finally the gap between the new speaker adapters and the speaker itself was filled with a foam spacer cushion that came with the Pioneers!

nice one nice one.

[HMG1K]

Update #7,487 from me on this now...!

I've just re-attached the rear speakers and wanted to let everyone know that there is a speaker adapter lead for the Galant / Legnum to convert from the original loom to the individual cables if you install aftermarket speakers.

It is from AutoLeads - part number PC2-802.

They're only ment to fit Fords, Nissans and Suzukis, but they DO fit our cars.

They cost £4.99 for a pair (so to do the complete rear or complete front. Image below so you know what I mean!)

I intent to upgrade the speaker cable on all four speakers to lovely thick wire and run it back to the amp, when I get time to do it. (I'm snatching time here and there to do bits at a time on the install before the real time consuming stuff like the amp takes over.

The new Pioneers sound fab - even with the bell wire!