droplinks????
.
Mechanic confirmed £100 for the tracking, rack ends and track rod end labour plus an afternoon trying to find the issue.
He's not so sure its the ball joints cos you could feel the rack pulse when the noise was made.
He did suggest trying to tightening the other bias screw but I need to confirm the size of the hexagon plug . It looks about 19 mm Across Flats . it needs a lump of hex bar end or a bolt with a few nuts on it as it quite a large size adaptor
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'96 Citroen Xantia Dimension 1.9TD
Oil change: DONE 12/01/08
Coolant change: DONE 20/01/08
To do: Brake pads, Gear Oil, Hydraulic fluid change
Last fitted: Havoline 15w-40 Oil and filter change, Advanced 5 year coolant (10C temp drop!)
Rugby, UK
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Just been reading this thread with interest as I repair cars for a living and often come across annoying suspension knocks. Anti roll bar bushes and joints often get missed by MOT men because all the joints are under tension and the play can't be detected. The best way to find out for sure is to disconnect the anti roll bar one end and feel for any play. Just an idea. Worth a look!
Ok, bit of an update.
The 'donky-donk' noise is SO easy to replicate now, it happens all the time... so whatever was bad has got worse.
also, booting it from standstill say at a roundabout created a 'Clonk' noise
If you shift into neutral, freewheel then stick it in D, you get the same clonk noise as the car shift forward.
Just trying to find a mitsubshi garage to take it an go over it, as I've had two mechanics fail to diagnose this issue
Take it no-one else has resolved this further?
If it clonks when engaging gear, then I wonder if an engine mount has collapsed and the gearbox is rubbing/striking the centre crossmember?
Pete have both lower arms been replaced as per the recalls? I reckon that if you check only one side of the car if any has been done. Shout a Mitsi to ensue they double check it.
VR-4 #1 : Ernie, Pyreness Black, 98 Legnum Type-S, Leather, Moonroof & Stainless Sills, Fujitsubo cat back, Apexi RSM - Sold under duress
VR-4 #2 : Wallie, Finesse Green, 96 Legnum Type-S, Erebuni CF bonnet, Profec E-01 & EMB, TRE fuel pump, RPW Downpipes, De-Cat, Fujitsubo Super Legalis R, LC-1, NGK Iridium Plugs, SARD Radiator, Greddy Hard Rad Pipe, ATF Cooler, FMIC, Forge Recirc BOV, KAD 6 Pot 330x28 Brakes, HEL Braided Lines, 17"X8.0 Rota Torques with Wintrac Xtremes, Fully Synth Oils, Ultimate 102RON Fuel, Stainless Sills - Sold after 4 great years
Im not aware of any recalls... yet its not been my car its whole life, history doesnt show anything
what recall was this and do i need to still pay for it?
No need to pay for recalls, contact your local dealer and ask them to check for recalls on your chassis number. The one you are interested in is lower arm, although it may not be relevant to your model.
even due to age? will they care now??
It's a matter of public safety, of course they won't care...that's why you have to make a fuss.
Recalls all up to date.
More clues (it's getting worse!)
If I get to about 80mph (on a private airstrip of course) I get the light vibration through my feet, knee resting on centre console, and steering wheel from the tapping of the donky donk noise very feintly tapping away under the chasis...
ANY slight bump and it goes 'donk' now too... embarrassing driving into work over the rummble strips!
Stick in neutral at any point when moving, then into again, and you get a 'clank' as the slack is taken up.
Definately sounds like something suspension/torsion related, but Ive been waiting for it to get so bad that a mechanic can easily find it, so far they've failed. Raise the car up and somehow vibrate the wheel up and down, i bet they'd hear it
Definately ont he dirvers side only too, when the wheel raises or falls sharply from rumbles, pot hols, speed bumps etc. and the sounds comes about half a meter inward from the wheel towards the centre of the car
I too get the tranmission slack issue you describe. If you accelerate a little then lift off and coast, when you put your foot down again there is a clunk like some slack is being taken up in the drive train before the power goes down.
I also get a loud clunk when stationary and move the auto selector between Reverse and Drive. Sometimes I think the sound is coming from the rear diffs (almost like gear backlash being taken up) but sometimes it sounds like under the front (gearbox) somewhere. I wanted to get my girlfriend to change between R and D whilst lying underneath so I can see if the drive shaft is moving - that should let me know if the clunk is at the rear or the front. I did check the front engine mount and that seems fine, as does the driver side engine damper. Haven't found the other two yet.
I also get the knocking from the steering/suspension too. It also sounds like it originates from the front driver side wheel. I had both lower arms replaced including Track Rod Ends due to play in my ball joints but the knocking sound is still there. Seems like something is loose, but only when subjected to holes/bumps in the road that are small - over speed bumps just it just compresses nice and quiet. It always seems to happen over small bumps when going uphill, when the front wheels are slightly unweighted. Maybe damper valves? My MTB gives similar knocking sounds when the suspension forks need a service.
Would love to have these sounds sorted!
I'm gonna try the dampers next (daiyamas still waiting to be fitted) - see if that eliminates the front knocking problems.
Mine had the noise and I thought it was the lower arm. Pete has since had that done under recall and found it was the rear (curved arm) that is at fault despite never finding anything as I checked on a number of occasions.
Lee
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