So, do you think 6a13TT can dive into 11s or even 10s?

[valmes]

I've just accepted a bet for 10K $ that my car will break into 10.5-11.5 sec times on an upcoming DragBitva2007 event... too late to back up... Best times in my class in 2006 were 11.6.

Who can supply the forged internals?

[amsoil]

Try Arrows; they just wont be cheap !

[valmes]

What's arrows?

[bradc]

If you spend $10k then you'll probably get it

What turbos do you have in mind? TD04's still? For $10k it would be worth removing every interior component, bolting on big turbos and forging the internals.

[valmes]

... any body wants to help? I need to know what forged internals will set me back in your country.. cams? pistons&rods?

Brad spending 10K is not a problem... problem is WHERE do I spend those money?

[Nutter_John]

I would PM KevinAP or Zentac , they both have forged internals at the minute

WRD have been researching this for the last 3 months and have a lot of background knwoledge but as yet we are not ready to release anything ( as nothing has been made or tested )

I can send you some info as to places to buy and the internal specs etc etc

Cheers John

[Gly]

cam gears grup buy

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22541

[Wodjno]

... any body wants to help? I need to know what forged internals will set me back in your country.. cams? pistons&rods?

Brad spending 10K is not a problem... problem is WHERE do I spend those money?

I will enquire for you Val.. I 'll be in touch over the next week ....

Though as Kevs already done some of the above, i'm sure that will be cheaper than a bespoke option !!

[bradc]

I'm going to get some quoted up soon, I'll let you know how much

[ako]

www.rpw.com.au

takes upwards off 280kW @ wheels, on slicks to run quicker than 11.5 in a 1100kg lancer - do the math for a 1500kg legnum.

[Eurospec]

Jeff Lucious Formula predicts 580bhp at the fly is required to run an 11.46
Patrick Hale's formula predicts 410bhp at the fly to run an 11.49
And Geoffery Fox Predicts 515bhp to run an 11.46

On average, by the three methods its 500bhp in round numbers. You gotta be close to that arent you val?

Good on you for stepping up to the plate and having a go!

Cheers,

Ben.

[bradc]

I think around 500-550hp is about right. I hope 2x GT25R's and forged internals will get me to that point

[calum]

If you want to get in the tens in a street trim car you're looking at 650bhp, I reckon.

What sort of terminals are you getting just now? You need to be looking at about 130mph for a 10.9.

If you analyse your runs, where are you fastest? Launch, 60ft, 200ft, or terminal? Look at where the bottlenecks are and upgrade components that help with those areas.

What clutch are you running? I would reckon you'll be needing a fairly mental twin or triple plate setup.

I would also suggest a MOTEC fully programmable ECU, get rid of the MAF sensor and move to a 3bar MAP sensor, increase the size of all air carrying pipework from turbo to cylinder.

May also be a good idea to have the intake manifold and heads flowbenched and establish just what it's capable of as you may have an issue getting enough air in for that sort of power.

At that sort of power you also have to be thinking about diffs/ driveshafts, but I would be tempted to build it and see what breaks first.

Take a logical approach, measure and analyse what you have and improve those areas that need it.

Don't just assume that bolting bits on is going to give an improvement when you're at these sorts of levels - you may actually do more damage than good by changing something that's working/ capable.

Cheers,

Calum

[zentac]

If your after forged internals contact NR Autosport http://www.nr-autosport.com they can supply them to you and should cost about £2500 (not sure on exact cost) There is a 8 weeks wait on them. Mine should be here in the next 2-3 weeks.

[Eurospec]

Clutch is a good point.

You need a big clutch for serious 1/4 mile awd launching. A hard launch will make a huge difference to ET, as long as there is grip.

So far on 1/4's i have destroyed (in various states of tune)

A centreforce dual friction, an RPS max, an OS Giken twin plate, and a DXD F. I've eaten a flywheel every time too, even though i have been using either the Findanza or RPS which both have removable plates.

The DXD F was rated to 780 ft lbs torque- now i dont have that much, maybe 5 or 600, but it ate it on its first hard launch.

Now i run an RPS carbon-carbon twin, which i love!

I suspect that there will be something drive train related which will bite te bullet first. Evo's are always smashing the drive bolts in the xfr box, and then the rear AYC diffs give up.

Its gonna be a hell of a ride, but i recon its doable in the mid 11's.

Cheers,

Ben.

[zentac]

Jeff Lucious Formula predicts 580bhp at the fly is required to run an 11.46
Patrick Hale's formula predicts 410bhp at the fly to run an 11.49
And Geoffery Fox Predicts 515bhp to run an 11.46

On average, by the three methods its 500bhp in round numbers. You gotta be close to that arent you val?

Good on you for stepping up to the plate and having a go!

Cheers,

Ben.

How do those forumla's translate for a FWD ?

[Wodjno]

How do those forumla's translate for a FWD ?

Jeff Lucius http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-hp-et-mph.htm

[valmes]

Thanks for input guys!

a) I've got 2 weeks to come up with a plan... (I've got a simple one right now, but it kinda sucks )
b) I've got less than 4 month to be done with the plan I came up with...
c) and I've got to get rid of that "I bet I WILL" habit... it's killing my pockets...

Of course I would want to build a fast, reliable, everyday 11 seconds monster and I am 100% confident that it could be done with the right turbos, forged internals and beefed up drivetrain, but have I got the time??!!??

I ran 12,7 on 1.05 bars of boost on street tires in a full weight 1500 kgs car (everything else is listed in my sig up the page, in my first post) on a local 98 oсtane fuel (It could be anywhere from 91 to 98 in UK terms).
That should put my engine in 380-420 bhp spot? Somewhere around there anyway...

However, I only have to run 1(!) time lower than 11,5 to win the bet, so I am basically prepared to kill an engine with a good nitrous shot (100-150HP). Hell with it! I will use VP116 and most effective boost levels my turbos can pump out (I hope they can do it at 1,2-1,4 bars to red line... never had a chance to get that high, since winter came in when I was ready to give it a shot). I am more worried about the drive train... C&C clutch and 4 ET Drags on that engine will probably kill the gearbox pretty quickly... Will have to strip down the car to bare bones... like Dave did (btw how much did it save you in weight?)...

I don't like that plan either, but at least I am sure it can be done in less than 4 months.
I hope it will net me lower than 12 sec pass, but lower by how much and will my car finish in one piece? I've still got some time to think over my options...

PS: I know those formulas Ben, I've even incorporated them into "online engine calculator" quite some time ago, but thanks anyway!

http://four.fsphost.com/valmes/ecv1_2rusad.htm ooops it's in Russian, my bad...

Will have to get this one altered a bit to show all numbers:
http://four.fsphost.com/valmes/ecv1_2.htm

[bradc]

I would say that dropping the weight down to 1300kg would make a huge difference and get you most of the way there. I know you have a proper twin-plate clutch, so I think that with some slicks and weight reduction you probably aren't far off it to be honest. 150hp of NOS will get you there

[ako]

I want your budget!

Its do-able. Take a leaf from the GTO / 3000GT boys - they have the same issues we do. They get around it with bulk power, not weight loss so much. Gut it anyway though, if you want those times its gonna need everything you can get.

Your fuel system is gonna need a massive boost. The nitrous just might be enough to do it all - I like the way you think ref disposable engines too

Remember it takes a lot of trial and error to get a car this quick. Cars that should run low 11's more often than not run a mid 12ish their first time out, purely because a road test is a lot different to how things are at the track.

Driver error shows up much worse at these times too - a bad launch or missed shift means 14.5 instead of 14.0 - it also means 12.5 instead of 11.5.

You could make the power via bigger turbos, internals etc etc

Or like you said, just throw a massive wet NOS kit into it, buy a spare engine, and cross your fingers. My guess is the AYC rear end with die on the line (I've even seen them die under constant straight line power, on the road and dyno), the engine will go at mid track, or you'll absolutely blow the current quickest V6 VR4 times out of the water.

Hope its the third option