So, do you think 6a13TT can dive into 11s or even 10s?

[amsoil]

Sounds good to me , whats the old saying.... I'll show you mine if you show me yours! LOL

If you want to see cranks rods and pistons And 'that' car then my H/a is a better venue. Could even do theat and then go upto Oxford after PM me if you fancy modding the plan

[amsoil]

I really don't think you're going to need a new crank for 550-650bhp, but I'm talking about 'normal' mods, not switching on a 150 NOS shot all of a sudden. I can imagine that loads it up FAST and may cause issues.

Calum

Thats where I was working to IF the std crank is forged and the bottom end is a girdle. But rods and pistons would still be on the shopping list.
No one has mentioned oiling , I know , Iknow , not trying to sell here. But most engines looking for this kind of power increase need bigger pumps, larger oilways and mods to the bearings to allow more oil through to 'float' the crank.

[Eurospec]

the 6A12 is certainly a girdle, so i am sure the 6A13 is too, but i have never had one in that many bits!

As to wheter the crank is forged or cast, take a look at it. You will see by inspection. I made the assumption that all available cranks from mitsu are now forged as they seemed to make that change in the mid 90's but again i dont KNOW. All the ones we ever get are.

The reason i am suggesting a new crank, or a forged one if they are indeed not forged, is that i dont think its a good place to start to build a 600 brake motor on an already warn crank. It may well still be in spec, but you are going to have to take it out and mic it up at minimum and plastiguage the bottom end clearances, but when you are spending that much on a built engine, i would do the crank anyway. Say its still in spec, but at the big end of the clearance when you plastiguage it up, then i would go with a new crank. Whilst it may be fine in a stock motor if its gonna be pounded, may as well have the best start.

Cheers,

Ben.

[Eurospec]

Sorry, one other thing, just reading dons post there about oil again......

I doubt you can get a high flow/pressure pump, but if you could, definately do. You could think about shimming the bypass valve, but that will only increase the max pressure at which the bypass opens. If the pressure never gets up there it wont help. The toga 6g72 pump is just an oem pump with a shim in the valve, flown no more.

Also, does the 6a33tt block have oil squirters under the pistons fed of the mains?

These have a tendancy to stick open and cause low oil pressure, but they can be replaced. Many people i have spoken to say these squirters dont have much benefit anyway and they put 'closed' bearings in the mains. This greatly increases oil pressure, but i dont know if its true that the squirters are of little benefit.

Cheers,

Ben.

[stuartturbo]

Under piston jets are there to cool the piston as well as lube it up

edit some poop out
No matter what you do to the oil pump it will have no effect on amount of oil passed round engine.
You must open oil galleries to increase flow but pressure will drop at the pump so you must then increase the pressure in the pump by the washer under the spring in the flow control valve in the oil pump.
An engine oil ways can be represented as say a 2.5mm diameter hole.
So a pump will generate 3 bar pressure at 20l/min at say 1000rpm if you increase anything in the oil pump the flow will stay the same but the pressure will raise since the oil ways cannot flow any more oil.
On the jag V8 the oil pump was suitable for the NA engine but when the Supercharger was added the flow demand went up, the pump still produced enougth flow but the pressure the dropped so a "washer" gets fitted to raise the pressure to the required level.
A risk off the is premature wear due to cavitation damage (pump cannot draw in enougth oil)

[valmes]

I think the bet is off... The guy that offered it, started to back up.

That doesn't mean I won't be heading for the best result possible, just a little less pressure... and now I have to think of a "safer" way of achieving my goals, not just blowing up every bit of my car...

Found this:
http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...?postid=940515

Prices are good... does anybody know if they ever did a set of pistons and rods for VR-4?

[bradc]

At least it gives you more time to properly do it, get in touch with Zentac for forged internals.

[valmes]

At least it gives you more time to properly do it, get in touch with Zentac for forged internals.

J2500 = $4900 (USD) - kinda high for a set of forged internals...

For 6g72TT I've seen options for forged pistons at as low as 600$ a set.

Even if you buy from online shop (such as 3sx for example) it will come to:
$949,95 - Ross Pistons and rings (set of six)
$1249,95 - Pauter Rods (set of six)
------------
Total of $2199,90

I know our engine is different and we don't have off the shelf parts, but I guess I would rather buy 5 spare engines at $4900... So I think I will look for other options for now.

There are plenty of companies that can do a custom set of rods and pistons... I have not looked into it yet, but a quick search shows it can be done.

Look at this for example, set of 6 JE custom pistons and 6 Pauter custom Rods comes to around $1800 total:
http://forums.audiworld.com/groupbuys/msgs/670.phtml

More links:
http://www.wiseco.com/default.aspx
http://www.pauter.com/billet_rods.htm
http://www.rosspistons.com/auto_cust...cat=64&item=14
http://www.rosspistons.com/uploads/6...custom_m_v.pdf
http://www.atomicspeedware.com/custompistons.htm
http://www.racetep.com/jecustom.html
http://www.jepistons.com/dept/order/

[zentac]

I think Ive got prices from most of those people, I will dig them out and let you know.

[valmes]

I think Ive got prices from most of those people, I will dig them out and let you know.

Thanx Zentac!

[Wodjno]

Thanx Zentac!

I have contacted a company than shorten and strengthen our OE Rods.. Also stonger crank.. Will update

[valmes]

I have contacted a company than shorten and strengthen our OE Rods.. Also stonger crank.. Will update

Hmmm, how can you do that? ... and did you mention a stronger crank? I wanna hear more! Wodj spit it out!

I wonder if JUN has something ready for our engine... after all I don't think that HK Galant (while on 6a13) was with stock internals?

[Wodjno]

Hmmm, how can you do that? ... and did you mention a stronger crank? I wanna hear more! Wodj spit it out!

I wonder if JUN has something ready for our engine... after all I don't think that HK Galant (while on 6a13) was with stock internals?

They are heated, shrunk and then strengthened

All will be revealed

"Be patient young Luke"

[amsoil]

Standard rods can be given more resistance to failure by removing any forging marks and polishing, followed by shot peening stress relieving and cryno freezing. They wont become stronger just less likely to fail. It is usually cheaper to buy proper forged beam rods and is usually only done when the regs require std rods to be retained ie blueprinting.
Cranks can be lightened balanced statically and dynamically and have the surface embedded with cyanide nitrate which makes the journals very hard. They should also be x-rayed or the like for fractures which could propagate under high stress leading to failure. Again usually cheaper to buy a good froged crank.
The million dollar question is how good the std items actually are!?
Be very careful with cheap forged rods. They will be cheap for a reason as rod making is fairly competitive. They are not all equal and you will generally get what you pay for;

[newman132]

this probably sounds stupid but i have only just purchased my galnt because they have just been allowed in australia and before doing this i read a road test in high perfomance magazine on the galant and they said that forged pistons are standard with the car???

[Gly]

no there not, we would all be running huge amounts of boost and nos if they did,

[bradc]

the pistons might be, a few people have reported the ring lands cracking or being damaged, but it isn't common

the rods aren't very strong though, a few people have destroyed theirs

[amsoil]

Also remember as with all things in life there is a 'quality' difference.

[Nick Mann]

no there not, we would all be running huge amounts of boost and nos if they did,

Some people have run large amounts of nos? And we can't run large amounts of boost - the turbos can't do it!

I don't know of many engine failures on the 6A13TT that can be put down to simply too much power. There are other things in the background that always make me question whether the fuelling was right for the power.

There is a thread somewhere that questions exactly that.

[pitmac]

The Rods arn't very strong, a few people have destoyed theirs.
Under what circumstances (ie what boost and what revs)
I'm interested in the detail as we all should be.