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Thread: General Forged Pistons and Rods Upgrade Discussion Thread

  1. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by WODJNO
    So what Damn Fool? Mentioned the Oil Pump
    lol!, nothing personal!, just used as an example.

    How about we buy a club car and get together, have a day out, stick some sensors on it, attach it to a laptop with evoscan on it, and thrash it to death (in a controlled manner??), and post up the findings, lol!
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  2. #142
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    bump mofo's

    i aint lettin this thread go cold!

  3. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by rees
    bump mofo's

    i aint lettin this thread go cold!

    Good onya !

  4. #144

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    So when are we organising a group buy on pistons and rods?

    Also...we need a company to step up to make some manifolds to fit other turbos

  5. #145
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    I have read This entire thread but still cant really make sense of how much it is going to cost for a full forged job of a 6a13tt. Pistons, Rods, Rings, Studs, big end bearings, and a crank regrind to fit the new bearings. does anyone have a rough idea of how much this would cost all up in NZD. and im a tad unsure about when reboring is involved, is this required when fitting new pistons.
    Please help im hungry for HP

  6. #146
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    Thats like asking how long is a piece of string!
    Don't expect much change out of $20k!

    If you going to get someone else to do it add another pile of cash as well.

    Depends how far you want to go.
    There is a lot of work that will need doing. New pistons you would need to rehone the bores.
    All the new studs, port and polish(but not the intake that I am going to put a thread with a 20 pitch, down to a 16 pitch), bigger turbos....the list goes on and on.
    The crank, the only thing I would do to that is rebalance it.
    Last edited by Fully; 01-05-2009 at 10:52 PM.


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  7. #147

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam.Findlay
    I have read This entire thread but still cant really make sense of how much it is going to cost for a full forged job of a 6a13tt. Pistons, Rods, Rings, Studs, big end bearings, and a crank regrind to fit the new bearings. does anyone have a rough idea of how much this would cost all up in NZD. and im a tad unsure about when reboring is involved, is this required when fitting new pistons.
    Please help im hungry for HP
    You shouldn't need to regrind the crank. Just replace with standard sized bearings.

  8. #148
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    Don't need to rebore unless you're going for bigger displacement. Definitely need to hone, though.

    Anyone got any advice for a good set of rings? (not just for this, but any car?)

  9. #149
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    Yep ones that fit are a good start Steve


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  10. #150
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    Would balancing the crank not potlentially take strenght from it? And if theres no damage and your using standard Size bearings then why would you need to do that?

    How much are we looking at for pistons and rods? HOw the come the pistons dont come supplied wih rings, Seems a bit pointless to have one without the other.

  11. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo_Steve
    Don't need to rebore unless you're going for bigger displacement. Definitely need to hone, though.

    Anyone got any advice for a good set of rings? (not just for this, but any car?)
    I would try
    Johnson Piston & Hydraulic Rings, I think they trade under the name of franklin Engineering.

    They just refitted our V20 disel, and they did a very nice job of it. This powers one of the snow makers.

  12. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by scientist
    You shouldn't need to regrind the crank. Just replace with standard sized bearings.
    You should budget for some correction, though: you never know how much wear you're going to see, and what pattern it's in. I broadly agree, though, that it SHOULD be a straight swap. Just trying to manage peoples expectations re: budget, as they say in the office.

    Quote Originally Posted by Alan
    Would balancing the crank not potlentially take strenght from it? And if theres no damage and your using standard Size bearings then why would you need to do that
    Not really: You normally take bits of metal that aren't integral to the cranks structure. And the damn thing is massive, heavy and strong anyway, so the metal you lose doesn't make much difference. I've only every seen one crank break due to out-and-out bhp, and that was in a highly tuned tractor making about 3000lbft of torque out of something stupid like a 2.0Litre diesel engine.
    The whole engine was wrapped in steel straps to try and keep the head on. I think it was actually a bearing that failed rather than the crank itself, but it had a scoremark that had obviously led to cracks, which led to a crunch and a gift for the local scrap-metal man.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nutter_John
    Yep ones that fit are a good start Steve
    See, it's the quality tuning advice like that that makes the membership fee worth every penny

    Quote Originally Posted by Fully
    Johnson Piston & Hydraulic Rings
    Thank you muchly! Will see how much they cost....

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