Auto to manual conversion

[Ryan]

Hi,

I'm pretty tired of the INVECS II system on my car. Don't get me wrong, it's pretty cool but I'm longing to operate a clutch pedal and gearshift again.

What's involved in converting my A Legnum to a 5MT, besides the obvious like sourcing a gearbox etc.

I can guess it's not going to be cheap either - any ballpark figures? How time consuming is it?

Would it be best to just buy a manual Legnum do you think?

Thanks

[The Vee]

Think BraindG did this - do a search. Manual gearboxes are pretty hard to come by, but I'm sure you could import one from one of many suppliers or Kempys in NZ. Just dont go anywhere near Nippon spares.
Not an expert on this one, but I think you may find quite a bit involved such as pedal box, ecu, clutch, and even the drive shafts I believe are slightly different.

/ oops must be my age - just noticed you're already in NZ, so Kempys not a bad bet!!

[bradc]

don't think Barry did it, but Mo, myself and Don (showvr) have all done it. Basically if the car is stock, there is no real point in doing the conversion, just buy another car

[The Vee]

Ah cheers Brad

[Ryan]

Cool, I don't mind owning two Legnums... actually it'd be cool if I could get a black Galant to match my white Legnum

[Gly]

just so you know somewhere around 2-2.5k for parts...
unless you can find some private wrecking there own car,

and around 1.5-2k for a workshope to do the conversion,

then you may also want to get a better new clutch at the same time witch will be arouns 500-2000 depending on how flash/strong you want

[Gly]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-122982294.htm

[Spirit]

Mo, myself and Don (showvr) have all done it.

.....and Kev from AP Motors

[Ryan]

Thanks again. I'm sort of forced to consider this option now as I experience seemingly endless trouble with my AT.

As Brad and Carsten will note I posted on the OZVR4 site about car wanting to stall when coming to the lights... now it seems I am having some serious issues, most of them show themselves when the AT is cold. Here's an example

My house is in a small valley, so in order to exit I usually need to reverse up the driveway. After the usual idling for a couple of minutes, I engage R and the revs hover at around 1500rpm and then the gear engages - usually with some authority too (jerking motion).

Once I go up the driveway, if I go too slowly the AT appears to become confused between holding the gear or letting it go. Today it let go and I started rolling forwards down the drive again, floored the brake and then the same thing as described earlier about the revs hovering occurred again before engaging.

I then reversed at a brisk pace and was now on level ground before engaging D and then flicking over into tip mode. Pulled off normally and executed changes between 2500 - 3000rpm and didn't seem to mind.

On the way to a wedding this morning i needed to get a gap off the line (from the lights) so I flicked it into D and floored it on green... it really didn't like this, held first gear for way too long before finding 2 and then selected 3, 4 and 5 with worrying noises and then it went into "limp home mode" (3rd gear selected, flashing N).

I pulled over and found a quiet spot and after a while shut down and waited a few minutes pondering whether or not I'd pick up smoking again... After about 10 minutes, keyed the ignition to "ON" and watched as all the warning lights slowly disappeared and then started it.

Selected D and then into tip mode, pulled away very slowly and rejoined traffic changing at the usual 2500-3000rpm range - not a problem???

So what on earth is going on here? It seems to me that if I drive it very smoothly and gently it appears as if nothing is wrong, I can even downshift from 5 -4 -3 with no complaints.

I've had my ATF flushed and replaced recently, have checked the fluid levels, no apparent leaks under the car and I don't drive it like a getaway car on a daily basis.

So I'm wondering what my options are, in my mind I have the following possibilities:

1. Drive car like Miss Daisy until it dies altogether
2. Transmission reconditioned? (how much $$$?)
3. Convert to manual
4. Drive it off a cliff, claim insurance and buy a manual

[Gly]

who did the trans flush?
was it a full flush or just drop the sump contents and refill?

what trans fluid was used?

sounds like its either got the wrong fluid? or it wasnt done properly?

was the ecu reset after the flush??

[Ryan]

who did the trans flush?
was it a full flush or just drop the sump contents and refill?

what trans fluid was used?

sounds like its either got the wrong fluid? or it wasnt done properly?

was the ecu reset after the flush??

MMC did everything, using that errr... forget what it's called MSP III or something?

As far i know MMC use a Wynns AT flush machine thingy. As for the ECU being reset, I doubt it. I did specifically state flush and replacement of fluid...

I did reset the ECU the other day myself - since then, these problems seem to be getting worse.

The flush was performed about 10 000km ago.

[Gly]

do you still have the receipt of the work?
does it say 10l atf or 4/5l?

[Ryan]

Ja, I store all service related documentation, I don't have it on hand at the moment because I'm at work but I don't believe there is a volume specified on the work order.

[bradc]

sounds like they did it right, check that they used 10l or more, and check that the level in the box is still correct.

[Subaru ETA]

with the wynns machine i find that if you put 10 litres in its usually down by about .5 - 1L once the fluch is finished due to what gets lost in the lines of the machine. so yeah - check your level.

did they change the filter?

but to me it sounds like the trans pressures are all up the ****. unfortunatly im not a mitsi mechanic so i dont know if you can actualy alter these on the vr4 trans.

id be taking it back to mitsi and getting someone to take it for a drive with you

[Ryan]

Hmm, I haven't had a look at the work order yet as I was too wasted after watching the rugby and now I'm at work but I checked the fluid level after I had arrived and it's present and red in colour.

As for a filter, no mention of one but will check the documentation

Only does it when it's cold for some weird reason, once I've driven off and warmed it up it operates as usual.

Meh - might have to get MMC to have a look, as suggested.

[KiwiTT]

Before I drive off in the morning, I turn the engine on and let it run for about 5-10 minutes. These seems to solve my problems with a cold transmission. If I simply drive off when it is cold, it is quite jerky / hesitant. So to avoid this experience as often as possible, I do the warm-up.

People say you do not need to warm-up your engine, however, they say nothing about transmissions. The 5-speed one in ours does seem to like it better when it is warm.

[Subaru ETA]

its the same with all autos - when they have a few ks on them do do run better when warmed up, but it shouldnt be stalling etc!

[Ryan]

Yes, the stalling isn't what's worrying though. The fact that it slips out of R or D when cold is making it difficult for me to get out my drive sometimes and I'm worrying about what sort of work it needs done to repair.

[ianturbo]

i think Zedy1 has done his , he the man to ask
ian