Installing an amp info...

[Zaid]

PS: Zaid, You shouldent mount your amp on the back of your sub box, you will damage your amp.

Many thanks Fully, you have a point. Another job added to the to-do list on the Galant

[HMG1K]

Is it safe to unbolt and remove this item in the photo circled (don't know what it is!) so I can feed my my amp cable through the firewall and into the cabin?

The second photo shows the area behind the part, a rubber gromet looking cover...

The last photo shows the bolts used to keep the part in place...

I'm stumped otherwise on where to feed the power cable through to the cabin.

[CANDEE]

The best place to do it is through the grommet next to the battery into the inner guard(see attached pic).

Take the wheel off the remove the inner guard and string the wire to the grommet on the right hand side and the wire will feed down to behind passengers kick panel.

Hope this helps,
J

[MarkSanne]

If the amp(s) is/are only there to feed the sub(s), there is another alternative which skips the whole cap thing/problem: use Class-J amp(s), like the earthquake PH2000W/D1 amp I have.

This type of amp is very power-efficient yet very powerfull (but not getting hot) and run a design that actually incorporate a cap into it. And I can personally guarantee it can run loud, VERY loud! I need to turn it back down to almost minimum level otherwise all kinds of car-bits & pieces start to rattle annoyingly.

[Beastlee]

That unit on the bulkhead is the wiper motor, you'll run into big problems if you try to squeeze a cable throught the grommet.

[HMG1K]

That unit on the bulkhead is the wiper motor, you'll run into big problems if you try to squeeze a cable throught the grommet.

Rules that one out! Thanks for the heads up!

[HMG1K]

The best place to do it is through the grommet next to the battery into the inner guard(see attached pic).

Take the wheel off the remove the inner guard and string the wire to the grommet on the right hand side and the wire will feed down to behind passengers kick panel.

Hope this helps,
J

Certainly does - though does the wheel have to come off...? I was looking for the easiest way round it - with natrually a professional looking job.

[CANDEE]

Certainly does - though does the wheel have to come off...? I was looking for the easiest way round it - with natrually a professional looking job.

Yes the wheel does have to come off as the inner guard has to be taken off to get the wire through to the grommet in the firewall plus you also need to be able to cable tie off the power wire - that reminds me I need to do mine too

Oh PS - you can run up to 0AWG wire through there I have 2AWG in there atm and there is no probs with it

[Zaid]

I think this has been covered here before, if you do a search you might some info. Usually, well atleast for all the Galants I had, try sticking the wire from behind the fan (heater) motor that is behind the glove compartment. Not an easy one.. I will try to get you some photos for you.

[Beastlee]

Yes the wheel does have to come off as the inner guard has to be taken off to get the wire through to the grommet in the firewall plus you also need to be able to cable tie off the power wire - that reminds me I need to do mine too

Oh PS - you can run up to 0AWG wire through there I have 2AWG in there atm and there is no probs with it

I disagree, when installing the Profec I routed my cables through the driver's side arch and all I did was jack it up and turn the wheel left (right if doing passenger side). It requires a little waggle to get the arch in and out but you don't have to take the wheel off.

I have to agree to it being the best and safest route though. The inner arches protect the cabling and there are already a set of grommets through which to run the cables into the cabin at a postion perfectly suited to running to the back of the car. If and when I get round to installing the 2 amps, 15" sub and Clarion DVD system this is where I'll be looking, although I may then move the battery to the boot so the power is close to the amps The only downside there is that I was going to hide both amps in a custom unit that sits in the wheel well.

[HMG1K]

I disagree, when installing the Profec I routed my cables through the driver's side arch and all I did was jack it up and turn the wheel left (right if doing passenger side). It requires a little waggle to get the arch in and out but you don't have to take the wheel off.

I have to agree to it being the best and safest route though. The inner arches protect the cabling and there are already a set of grommets through which to run the cables into the cabin at a postion perfectly suited to running to the back of the car. If and when I get round to installing the 2 amps, 15" sub and Clarion DVD system this is where I'll be looking, although I may then move the battery to the boot so the power is close to the amps The only downside there is that I was going to hide both amps in a custom unit that sits in the wheel well.

Ok, that sounds like an option to seriously consider - easier than taking the wheel off... appreciate the tip Beastlee!

[HMG1K]

I think this has been covered here before, if you do a search you might some info. Usually, well atleast for all the Galants I had, try sticking the wire from behind the fan (heater) motor that is behind the glove compartment. Not an easy one.. I will try to get you some photos for you.

Thanks Zaid - is the area to feed the wire through just below the wiper motor?

I've re-attached one of the photos from earlier as there's a big gromet were loads of wires go through (shown in the bottom right of the ringed area in the photo)... The problem I found was it was impossible to get my hands down there to pull the cover off, and it's really tight and snuggly fit.

[HMG1K]

Quick question - what is this additional wire (see image below) meant for on phono cables...?

My amp install kit arrived today and am thrown by both sets of phono cables having this additional wire attached to the middle...

What am I to do with this 'third' wire..?!

I've bought the Toxic 420 pack.

Thanks!

[Beastlee]

Good set of phonos I have sets of them still in the garage in the UK (must go and clear a load of stuff out).

The wire is for a switch wire to the amplifier. In order to only run the amplifier when the source (head unit) is on there is a 12V output. When you run the cables to the amp you need +12V permanent battery, -ve or earth and a switched +12V to turn the amp on.

To avoid noise I would reccommend that you keep the phono cables and 12V battery away from each other, preferrably on different sides of the car. I would also run the remote with the batt wire but you should be OK using the 3rd wire on the phonos.

[HMG1K]

Ah! Ok, so this third wire is the P-Con wire then..?! So I use this instead of a seperate P-Con wire!

What is best - use these phonos and run the seperate P-Con wire I have with the 12V battery cable..?

[Beastlee]

In an ideal world I would say run a separate wire but it all depends on how much of an audiophile you are. if you use the combined wire there is a possibility of introducing noise into the system but I wouldn't imagine it would be noticable.
If you don't mind sourcing and running the extra wire go for it but I really doubt there would be enough noise introduced.

I must find the pics of my old Pug 405 Mi16 we made custom shelf units and a full boot build in that, although the boot never really was finished.

[HMG1K]

If you don't mind sourcing and running the extra wire go for it but I really doubt there would be enough noise introduced.

Thank you !

I'll do it that way as I'd planned !

[Zaid]

Here are photos of mine as promised.

[HMG1K]

Here are photos of mine as promised.

Lovely! Thank you, Zaid... Is that a simple feed-in to the cabin then..? Just through the grommet...?

Will check it out on my car....

Really appreciate your time taking those photos!

[HMG1K]

Here are photos of mine as promised.

BINGO! That was my way into the car via the firewall!

Thank you so much Zaid! Cable came through just by the clutch..!