Another HC dials thread...

[calistofox]

Just to confirm again Calistofox and swinks, to install a VR-4 dash into a non-high vis n/a V6, what needs to be done? Just pin 4-5 or the resistor soldering work on the tacho? At the moment with no wiring mods, the tacho jumps around and isn't steady at all at the moment.

WEll maybe you have the HC broken! maybe you wanna check whit another one. mine work perfectly!

[bradc]

I'm sure it works fine, but I will get it checked. What is the point of connecting pins 4 and 5? To power the back light or to power the tacho?

[swinks]

OMG Brad... totally forgot that thread... sorry.

Well, nope, written guide is for swap hi-vis dash from Galant V6 (6-cyl engine) to any Galant n/a L4 (4 cyl petrol engine).
Your swap wasn't included in this guide.
Basic issues in that swap:
- tacho 180km/h (VR4) vs. 260km/h (Galant n/a EUDM)
- rev meter scale.
Never considered that swap, but I know that guys from PL Mitsi forum did few conversions just like you need, so gonna ask them what has to be done.

[calistofox]

ummm so his car is totally different from mine? well the pin 4 and 5 does power on the back light!

[swinks]

Well it's all due to few principles:
1. direct swap (same engine versions) requires only sorting hi-vis +12V dash illumination, so described pin 4 and 5 to alter (don't forget about those cuts and bridges)
2. swap between two different engine versions requires take into account that issues:
- dash illumination
- rev counter (petrol L4 engine vs. petrol V6 engine vs. petrol turbo engine vs. diesel engine)
- tacho scale (JDM vs. EUDM)
In same cases one or another issue will not exist.
Brad, in you case, all three does matter, but I think tacho scale up to 180km/h you can leave as it is or do you want to speed over that limit...?

[swinks]

And for future reference:
Pinout from three versions of dash (from left to right):
non-vis dash from alant n/a, hi-vis dash from Galant n/a, hi-vis dash from VR4.



Pin blocks as seen from back side of dash:

[calistofox]

mine was a diesel version and i had to modify everything!

[bradc]

I was planning on using the 180kmh dash, there is no need for anything above 180kmh in New Zealand (100kmh limit) and in a non-turbo car.

The VR-4 Tacho goes up to 9000rpm and the V6 one only goes to 8000rpm. I don't care too much about where the redline is, I can change gears when I want to anyway. However I would like the RPM's to be accurate.

The VR-4 has 3x Coils, the V6 has a Distributor, because of this, I think that I will have to use the V6 tacho electronics. I think that in turn that means that some of the resistors may have to be changed to change the tacho from 9000rpm to 8000rpm version?

[swinks]

In that case Brad, it's only down to change 1 capacitor in rev counter circuit board. And of course 4 and 5 pin feed for hi-vis dash.

[bradc]

ok, just to confirm, which capacitor in which location and what should it's uF rating be?

[swinks]

That's what I'm gonna find out. Be patient...

[calistofox]

i used the a GDI One goes to 260kmh, the diesel now does 215kmh. does yours RPM counter works with ecu info, or electric pulse?

[AKKO]

Can someone please confirm the pin outs / bridges required to convert from:
non-vis VR4 --> hi-vis VR4

Is it only the 4<>5 bridge that is required?

[bradc]

Tomasz, do you know what capacitor to use yet?

[swinks]

No.
I still need a detailed picture of rev counter board from vr4. Then I can compare. Anyway, maybe today I try.
Anyway, you or Q suppose to send me few piccys?

[bradc]

Of which parts exactly? I can take as many pics as you want tomorrow.

[AKKO]

Can someone please confirm the pin outs / bridges required to convert from:
non-vis VR4 --> hi-vis VR4

Is it only the 4<>5 bridge that is required?

Or do the other pins also need to be repositioned as detailed here?
http://www.google.com/translate?u=ht...&hl=en&ie=UTF8

[MYKEY]

Can someone please confirm the pin outs / bridges required to convert from:
non-vis VR4 --> hi-vis VR4

Is it only the 4<>5 bridge that is required?

Would be really interested to know this as well, also would the surround with the dimmer be needed or could you keep the original ?

Cheers

[swinks]

Haven't seen circuit diagram from type-V, but my guess would be:
1. bridge pins 4 and 5
2. check where path of pin 5 is going. If it's going to any used control light then proceed crossing/cutting path procedure, pin 5 may be not used in type-V dials. In a Galant n/a was used for "oil level" control, hence cut and bridge procedure was required.
3. swap pins in dials connector A according to diagram (post no 26) as columns "zwykle zegary" and "HC VR4" says. Just using needle pry pins. You can do your own map of connector pins for type-V dials using simple "follow path" method

[swinks]

Of which parts exactly? I can take as many pics as you want tomorrow.

I meant whole detailed pictures of rev counter unit from VR4 hi-vis dash. At the moment I have this dash, so gonna check soon.