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Thread: Battery to the boot questions.

  1. #1

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    Battery to the boot questions.

    I finally decided to keep my beloved VR4 since i wanted to own 1 for a very long time. Up is the first thing i want to do is to relocate the battery to the boot and have the following questions.

    1. When relocating the battery to the boot, can an audio cable be used and i mean the thick one that u buy when connecting the amplifyer to the battery that comes with a fuse.

    2. As for a negative wire, does it need to be run from the engine bay because originally it is connected to the gearbox via the bolt, or can i just bolt it to the body of the car in the boot?

  2. #2

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    Mine is grounded to the boot and nothing else, but the engine has extra grounds running to the chassis.

    You need very thick cable rated at 120a, I think 0awg and 2awg are the best options.

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    don't forget a fuse as well in the boot!

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    so ill be looking for a thick cable, and what about the fuse?? what i need it for as i dont recall the original positive wire having 1. So U reckon i can just have a negative terminal connected to the body in the back??

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    in case the wire rubs on a part of the body and shorts everything out, then catches on fire

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    And i assume we dont want that to happend lol.

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    I would use 1ga, or 0 ga for the posative wire with a big fuse in the boot.

    Earth the negative to a good structural point in the boot. On my own car i also ran some 4ga to the front earthing points for the negative.

    Cheers,

    Ben.

  8. #8
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    the origanal positive is fused. its in the fuse box! its the main fuse.

    but as brad says, you will need a fuse in the boot too incase it rubs

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    ok thanx guys

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    use welding cable, 50mm^2 will do the job nicely,
    get it from BOC ,

    5m is needed and will be around 80-90$

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    so far the thickest i have found is 25mm2 but will keep on looking

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    my brain just doesnt function properly does it??

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    ive also been wanting to do this - will not 2x 4ga cables be enough to run thru to the front? ive been looking for a way around getting thicker as 4ga is the thickest we sell at my work so i get a good discount

    after a quick search on google found this..

    As for how much current a size cable can carry:
    14ga = 15A
    12ga = 20A
    10ga = 30A
    8ga = 80A
    6ga = 105A
    4ga = 140A
    2ga = 190A
    1ga = 220A
    1/0 = 260A
    2/0 = 300A
    These wire ampacities are according to the NEC (National Electrical Code) and are set for wire to be used in any structure. The wire can actually carry more current than what I have listed, taking consideration that the wire is in an environment that it can be cooled or is in an open-air environment.

    found @ http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...1053957AAmdYoy
    Last edited by Munta; 27-06-2008 at 10:51 PM.

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    The car will draw around 100A when starting up, maybe even a bit more. I think that 2x 4ga cables would be more than capable, they'd handle 280A which is very high!

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    it actually draws closer to 200amps at crank,
    but it does it so fast and for such a short time the fuse does not pop.

    the 50mm^2 welding cable is equivilant to 1/0 = 260A,
    but its rated much higher than this... at least 2x more current carrying abillity.
    and its double insulated.

    i wouldnt use anything else than welding cable, its fairly cheap.
    i wouldnt cut corners on something that carriers power down the length of you car

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    how big fuse/ circuit breaker would be needed? i have found a 100amp one on TM at the mo

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    120-150amp

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    I used 2x 25mm^2 cable, it's easier to bend and protect
    Previous diamonds...

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    I welded a M8 bolt into my boot, for a very good negative point.
    Used to also ground my amps.
    Then used 2 * 4g high currant cables, 1 connected to the alternator.
    The other connected to the fuse box at the 100amp fuse.


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