Battery to the boot questions.

[CANDEE]

The reason for using the bigger cable is that it is less likely to heat up and therefore catch on fire.

[Kenneth]

It all depends on your continuous current requirements.

Cranking is only for a short period of time and you don't need to have cable rated at the current required for cranking.

I used 25mm2 cable for the battery relocation in the Galant. I don't have a big ICE install that requires much current though, so the continuous current draw is only what is required to keep the car operating, which you don't need a battery for anyway. (car will run fine once started without a battery connected)

[chris vr4]

i have just got my legnum and i am not clued up at all yet.
can sum1 tell me the advantages of doing this???

[d i c k i e s]

only if your looking at doing sum big peformance upgrades in the engine bay, removing the battery to the boot will allow you to do so. where the battery is located allows you to install/make custom cold air box.

Do a search for it (cold air box) on this forum, not google.. hehehe.

[CANDEE]

It also can be done to better your weight distribution. Expec when you have a 20kg battery....

[Nicky123]

N-Spec Motorsport in Manukau quoted NZD$200 to move batery to boot.
I thought this was reasonable, anyone else?
I have a HUGE air intake that has a POD filter in front of passenger side wheel well. Looks cool, but mechanic reckons the pipe gets too hot to touch so negates any benefits of the cold air intake, so he suggest a cold air box and panel filter.

[Goku]

He's basically saying put the old one back in and use a high performance panel filter lol

As for earthing on the boot install, I just drilled a hole in the boot and ran the welding wire through and mounted it to the chassis rail. There is a threaded 10mm hole on the chassis rail you can mount straight into .

And yes, I have used a grommet to stop any rubbing.

[Kenneth]

$200 isn't bad at all if it includes all the hardware. Harware retails for over $100 usually just for the cable.

and you get piece of mind that someone who knows what they are doing (hopefully) is doing the job.

Advice about the intake is good, we have found standard airbox with panel filter tend to work better.

[Grizzly]

Good thread, guys! Right in time for me

Any suggestions on how to route cable from trunk to engine bay? What way YOU did it?

[Kenneth]

I followed the loom into the passengers foot well, then through the cable housing on the passengers side of the cabin, up behind the back seat and through to the boot.

[Grizzly]

Is there enough place where loom enters cabing for a cable of good size?

To be honest, I've never yet seen left side of the car with fender removed
If someone has foto, pls, post

[Kenneth]

Is there enough place where loom enters cabing for a cable of good size?

To be honest, I've never yet seen left side of the car with fender removed
If someone has foto, pls, post

You can see the orange cable in this pic. There is plenty of room for the cable.

[Grizzly]

Thanx for the photo, Kenneth! It's of big help to me

[Turbo_Steve]

Kenneth, maybe it's a bit more temperate out there, but in the dead of winter in the UK, when it's hissing down with rain and you've got the heated window, mirrors, seats switched on, headlights on, all fans going and the stereo blasting (just a headunit, mind! I'm not talking amps or anything crazy) we'll find that coming to a stop at junctions without a battery can have all sorts of weird effects...dash needles bouncing about the place, engine running like crap etc etc.

Whilst I agree with your sentiment on cable size, the "no battery" thing doesn't seem to work well on jap cars.

Best way to size cable is base it on the alternator rating.

[chris vr4]

does any1 no of any near me (croydon) that cud do this???

and roughly wot u looking at to do it???

[miikka]

I took the cable to engine bay today. Too bad that I didn't remember take any pics of the project, I was too pissed off. Took about 20 minutes to remove fender and all other stuff, but it took about 2 hours to find suitable place to put the cable through. Huh... I've a head ache!

[Kenneth]

I wasn't trying to imply that you should run without a battery, only point out that the alternator directly supplies most if not all of the required energy to keep the car running. Hence, not needing a huge cable.

Kenneth, maybe it's a bit more temperate out there, but in the dead of winter in the UK, when it's hissing down with rain and you've got the heated window, mirrors, seats switched on, headlights on, all fans going and the stereo blasting (just a headunit, mind! I'm not talking amps or anything crazy) we'll find that coming to a stop at junctions without a battery can have all sorts of weird effects...dash needles bouncing about the place, engine running like crap etc etc.

Whilst I agree with your sentiment on cable size, the "no battery" thing doesn't seem to work well on jap cars.

Best way to size cable is base it on the alternator rating.

[Grizzly]

Miikka, what was wrong? How did it ended?

[miikka]

Miikka, what was wrong? How did it ended?

Well, I just couldn't find suitable hole to put the cables through. Then I took the Dremel and cutted the black plastic "box" surrounding the wire connectors so then I was able to through the cables. Hard to explain without reasonable pics, but the one who has been fighting with the same thing should know what I'm talking about.

Here's anyway the only pic I took:
http://to.pic.fi/kuvat/VR-4/Battery+...6072008430.jpg

(Other 3 images in folder are pictures of taking the cable from the boot to the cabin)

[Grizzly]

Thanks, mate This awaits me soon

By the way - nice shiny Legnum you've got Respect! (underhood of mine is much more dirtier - at least yet)