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Thread: Trigger wheel question Galant VR4 EC5W

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    Question Trigger wheel question Galant VR4 EC5W

    Hi!

    I'm trying to install a Haltech E8 on a Galant VR4 EC5W. Haltech didn't have a Plug-N-Play kit for this car, so we have to do it all from scratch.

    I think the wiring is all good now and we just need to do some initial setup in the software. What I would like to know, to save us a little time is:

    1: Crank shaft position sensor, is it a reluctor or hall-sensor?
    2: Whats the crank teeth setup, 30-2, 60-2... etc? How many teeth does it have and how many is it missing?

    That would help out a lot.

    Best regards,
    Arash

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    That is the first time I have heard that question, and I have been here for a while! I also can't help I'm afraid. Hopefully someone here can?

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    Just had a nosey at the service manual - The crank sensor's a hall-sensor. I don't know how many teeth there are on the crank though.

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    i want the answer also!

    The GTO has a 3 tooth crank sensor as well as a 3 tooth cam angle sensor.

    the cam angle sensor has one tooth with longer duration then the other two.

    When you draw out the logic from them you can see how the ecu detects which cylinder is firing and gets its base trigger event.

    Can't find the page but its been documented by megasquirt users/developers and there is a gto running on megasquirt without replacing the ignition triggering.
    "You can tow a trailer with your moped, but you can't tow any other sort of vehicle. Your moped can't be towed by another vehicle." Land Transport Safety Authority Fact sheet 43 -Mopeds

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    Quote Originally Posted by PBZ
    Hi!

    I'm trying to install a Haltech E8 on a Galant VR4 EC5W. Haltech didn't have a Plug-N-Play kit for this car, so we have to do it all from scratch.

    I think the wiring is all good now and we just need to do some initial setup in the software. What I would like to know, to save us a little time is:

    1: Crank shaft position sensor, is it a reluctor or hall-sensor?
    2: Whats the crank teeth setup, 30-2, 60-2... etc? How many teeth does it have and how many is it missing?

    That would help out a lot.

    Best regards,
    Arash
    not sure what you mean be missing teeth.
    do you mean the crank pulley itself is missing teeth
    or the sensor wheel on the crank for the crack angle sensor only has 2 teeth.

    let us know and i am sure we can find it out in some manual or other.

    Bye for Now!

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    Jump onto the ozvr4 forums, quite a few people there have haltechs. I *think* what you need to do is to chop off 2 of the teeth on the crank sensor, but I'm not 100% sure.

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    Both Cam and Crank are hall effect. They are both 3 break points. Its not like missing tooth etc that you would have on a ford or GM, its 3 distinct flags that pass through the sensor field.

    I very much suspect one is 'longer' as MunkyWrench said, but i have never measured so i dont know.

    Hope thats useful,

    Cheers,

    Ben.

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    Mark 4's Avatar

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    I've got all the bits laying around from my broken engine so I can measure or send to you whichever is best. Not sure exactly what you need though ?

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    Read all about it here - as far as I'm aware ours is the same.

    http://www.stealth316.com/2-ignitionsystem.htm

    I looked into fitting an Emerald K3 ECU a little while ago (more features than I found on any other similar priced ECU's) but they told me it needed a trigger wheel so when I looked up how the Mitsubishi's worked I found this.

    I went the piggyback route in the end but I would be interested to see how others have managed with aftermarket ECU installs - presumably they either modify the crank flux screening plate or add a normal trigger wheel.

    The megasquirt solution does sound interesting too....

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    That problem is solved. sorry for not telling. Modded triggerwheel was the answer.
    Pierre Örnryd
    pierre@fastcar.se
    Galant VR4 -01 "Ralliart edition" 5-speed

  11. #11
    phosty's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagleton
    Modded triggerwheel was the answer.
    Could you elaborate a little please on the specifics of the modifications?

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    It´s not that big of a deal really. The Haltech ECU that I have is programmed for the 7G triggerwheel spec. So the Haltech think its getting "wrong" trigger timing signals. If the triggerwheel is modded to a 3 tap wheel or so and synced with Haltech. Problem solved.

  13. #13
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    Hi,
    1 lug!
    Check out the last two pages of this thread-
    http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...=trigger+wheel
    The whole thread is useful, read the info on the auto box ecu and signals it reuires, good luck keep us posted, cheers Louis
    Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.

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