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Thread: Installing a boost gauge

  1. #1
    Ryan's Avatar

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    Installing a boost gauge

    Hi.

    As some of you may know I am using a manual boost controller set to a small amount of extra boost.

    I am in the process of acquiring a boost gauge to effectively monitor my boost pressure. Now to prevent the fuel-air ratio from going lean I've got to monitor boost pressure levels, along with oxygen levels in the exhaust gas, using an oxygen sensor.

    Where do I get this O2 sensor from and where should it be installed?

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    you cant safely monitor your afr's with the factory o2 sensor,

    you have to buy a wideband ego

    either the...

    SM-AFR from
    http://www.plxdevices.com/

    or

    LC1 from
    http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/


    dont expect much/any change from $450 if you get the kit inclucing the gauge

    personally I've just sold my lc1... lost faith in there product after having one die,
    and there sensitivity to earthing, and poor quality control and slow RMA

    I'm now saving for the PLX unit


    to be honest i woundnt worry about upping the boost a bit,
    if your really paranoid.... a Dyno run with AFR check will set you back aroung $80?

  3. #3
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    Cool thanks Carsten, your dyno run sounds like a far more cost effective method of checking AFR *and* I can find out how much power my car produces at the same time

    What if I upped the boost a little bit more? I don't want to get too carried away but as I'm obviously new to this, I'd like to know what max. pressure would be safe to run without an O2 sensor?

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    Gly's Avatar

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    15psi ish max,

    you'll either be hitting or very close to hitting fuel cut at that point

    the wide band is a good idea, if you want to install a AFC of some sort,
    have it tuned, and change something down the track, easy/safely tweek the AFC without having to pay a tuner,

    also if your factory EGO is in need of replacement.. you may aswell go wideband, only $150 price diff

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    Coolio - will chat to you about this some more on Saturday.

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    What about a laptop with Evoscan on it. Wouldn't that also give a boost read out?


    Quote Originally Posted by Gly
    you cant safely monitor your afr's with the factory o2 sensor,

    you have to buy a wideband ego

    either the...

    SM-AFR from
    http://www.plxdevices.com/

    or

    LC1 from
    http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/


    dont expect much/any change from $450 if you get the kit inclucing the gauge

    personally I've just sold my lc1... lost faith in there product after having one die,
    and there sensitivity to earthing, and poor quality control and slow RMA

    I'm now saving for the PLX unit


    to be honest i woundnt worry about upping the boost a bit,
    if your really paranoid.... a Dyno run with AFR check will set you back aroung $80?

  7. #7
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    Ja I suggested that to Brad when I was last at his but apparently it takes several attempts to get it (the program or connection [can't remember]) going and we didn't get round to doing it as beer and GTR2 kind of took precedence

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robotnik123
    What about a laptop with Evoscan on it. Wouldn't that also give a boost read out?

    evo scan will tap into the factory ego,
    IE... not wideband, so is useless for any real tuning/monitering

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    Come round on Saturday and we'll play with evoscan on the laptop, I am fairly sure it gives boost, but as Carsten said, it won't give AFR.

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    I'd say you wouldn't need to worry about it. You'll be hitting fuel cut before you do any damage. But it is always nice to know what your car is boosting.

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    My thoughts too, wind it up until you hit boost cut, then wind it off half a turn. No reason to do anything more!

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    Follow Brads istructions there. Your well within safe limits there.

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    I installed his boost controller and turned the knob around

    Ohh and I'm surprised you say that with how I passed you

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    Haha your just lucky my car is still limited!!! haha

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    bttt

    I have received my boost gauge and now wish to install it. There doesn't seem to be a how-to article in the Resource Library?

    I've found a couple of guides on the internet but was wondering if there is a VR-4 specific guide hidden away somewhere here?

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    The only change I would use is to tap off the back of the manifold rather than the intake pipe.

    Oh and remember you only need to run wires into the cabin...

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    Quote Originally Posted by CANDEE
    I bow to your superior powers of Search Thanks Jeremy
    Last edited by Ryan; 05-08-2008 at 04:03 AM.

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