Evoscan on carputer?

[apeman69]

Windows up and running.

Evoscan & Centrafuse installed & configured.

Awaiting cabling deliveries.

Going to see my carpenter tomorrow evening to measure up the boot enclosure.

The amount of cabling required is going to be ridiculous.

Design so far:-
PC in the boot along with amp & sub housed in a custom-built enclosure. VGA screen in-dash (motorised flip out type). Permanent OBD cable connected and running Evoscan. Wireless keyboard with on-unit joystick/mouse. 2xUSB ports to be mounted in ash tray or sunglasses holder. Ideally need a DVD drive within reach of driving position and the 2 dash-mounted USB ports will facilitate this in the future should I decide to do it.

PC & amp wired to panel mounted extensions in the frame of the boot enclosure. Basically I'm going to wire all the inputs and outputs of the PC and amp to two separate panels in the enclosure with the appropriate connectors to allow quick and easy connection/disconnection of the PC/sub/amp box.

I have to extend these connections (at least):-
From the PC: 12V+, 12V+ ignition, VGA, audio out, 5 x USB ports (surprising how many USB ports you can use up very quickly). PC capable of running 8 from the board and I'm going to install 6 in total.
From the amp: 12V+, sub in (2xRCA)
Each extension cable is in the region of 3-5m long so there's gonna be a lot of wires to shove under the carpet/trim.

Still awaiting delivery of screen but it's coming from the U.S. and it's only been a week now.

I'm behind schedule because of the 'wrong DVD drive' issue, which has not yet been resolved.

Will be working on the enclosure's connection panels whilst waiting to hear on the DVD drive. I can't put the PC case together until I know if I'm going to get a replacement drive.

It's difficult to visualise how this is going to end up (even for me) and I'll get some pictures up as soon as I get near the car with any sort of wire!

It's frustrating that I'm hanging about waiting for this or that though it's allowing me to firm up my ideas of what specifically will go where and how it's all going to interact.

[elnevio]

Al

I'm not going to pretend I know anywhere near enough about carputer installs, and I know that you now seem to be planning to put it in the boot somehow, but I note on one of your earlier posts that you were considering the space under the passenger seat as a possible location. Just in case you revisit this option, it's worth noting that the blowers under the seat might cause issues, especially in colder weather: I've found that the standard CD changer (UK-spec V6) suffers, apparently from the unit heating up too quickly and condensation forming inside the unit - i.e. on the CDs and preventing them from playing until the condensation has evaporated. This might not be an issue for a carputer, but potentially worth a heads-up as if it is an issue, it might not be something that would come to light until the colder weather!

Of course, this info might be entirely useless! But hey-ho...

[apeman69]

Thanks, Nev.
Yes, I believe that could be a problem as the CD/DVD drive in the PC would be subjected to the same temperature changes.
I'm definately going for the boot now with the option of installing another DVD drive elsewhere if I really need one (compromise number one of ONLY one I hope!).
I was considering under the seat before I got the PC and saw how big it was. The PC is very similar in size to my Fusion amp and last time I checked I was of the firm opinion that under the passenger seat was a no go for the amp: gotta be the boot. I've had this amp under the passenger seat of a gen 5 Celica, a gen 6 Celica and a Ford Mondeo with no issues whatsoever. It just will not go comfortably under the Leggy's passenger seat. I've thought about getting a smaller amp before but the Fusion is a nice piece of kit, with sentimental value too!
Should be easier (!!!!!??) to wire everything to the same location.... I hope!

[apeman69]

Lilliput screen arrived from USA this afternoon. It looks good but I haven't connected it up in the house yet. A bit disappointed that there isn't an ISO connector (all bare wires) for the power and speakers (screen has in-built amp) because this is another bunch of wires to connect up.

Met with my mate Phil this evening (the carpenter who's going to make the boot enclosure). He should have a box ready for a trial fit before the weekend.
Discussed cooling and mounting options with him and he's excited about building the box for me. He's going to do all the connector cutouts for the PC and amp and the mounting holes for the USB connections in the ash tray.
We did some useful test cuts on the ash tray plastic and I'm getting excited myself about the boot enclosure (that I never really wanted!)
He said now he has the measurements for the Leggy he could make up a kit if there was any demand.
He's making me a box that will fit against the back seats and between the wheels with a dividing panel so that the sub is on one side and the amp and PC are on the other side next to it. The sub is to be mounted on a 2 inch raised platform so that anything that may be rattling about the boot is more likely to hit the box frame rather than the sub. The amp will be on a raised platform and the PC on a raised platform above the amp. The dividing panel and platforms can be mounted wherever required. There will be space under, over and around each of the components to aid cooling/airflow. The front of the box will be covered where needed. He's going to fix a grille to the top and bottom of the front to help with airflow (and aesthetics).
The doodles below show some idea of how it will look (without the front boxed in - internally) and the finished article, both from the front. I've asked Phil to take some pictures during construction and I'll put them up 'cos my doodles are rubbish.

Linitx e-mailed me about the DVD drive and 'as a gesture of good will' they are sending me the correct drive that I ordered: RESULT!

Got all the cables and connectors in the house or in transit apart from something that will connect a 4AWG wire with some sort of easy connecting mechanism rated at 60 amps (this is for the amp's power lead and earth lead). All I can find at the moment is a 60A connecting block: the plastic connector things that secure wires by a screw recessed in the plastic.
As an example of what I'm after I've got a standard kettle connector (have a look at yer kettle!) for the PC power cables: three terminals, 12V+; 12V+ ignition; 12V-
For the amp power and earth lead I need something with a holding device that will take a thick cable (4AWG is something like 1000 strand cable) and tighten on to it securely with a socket for one end and a plug for the other, rated at 60 amps. Both socket and plug MUST be insulated as I wouldn't want the amp power lead to touch the car body! Would anybody who understands this care to give me some ideas? I'm stumped at the moment. All I can find is a standard plastic connecting block or a car amp distribution block. Don't want to have to find a screwdriver or allen key when I need to take the PC/amp/sub box out of the boot. Thanks all.

[apeman69]

Ooops..... the doodles...... well I have been awake since 5am!

[Turbo_Steve]

Good project, Some additional info for you:

Putting a jumper wire between pins 3 & 4 of your powersupply will switch it on, eliminating the need for the additional motherboard.

Not sure if you have a Numleg or a Galant, but if it's a numleg, why not mount the PC behind the boot trim on the Left hand side, with the front (DVD tray) poking into the storage cubby. So it's completely hidden unless you remove this door. This will also allow additional cooling.

[apeman69]

Steve, yeah, the power supply/motherboard thing is just a temporary 12V supply for setup and testing. The old motherboard is still inside it's PC case so it was a quick and easy solution with an on/off switch that came in quite handy when setting up the PC as there were many occasions I needed to cut off the power to the PC.
I got the Leggy and I thought about the PC in the trim panel you mentioned but the idea of an all-in-one removable box has grown on me: clean and simple and the PC can be oriented to personal taste.
Any suggestions on the amp power connectors?..... Any one?

[apeman69]

Most of the wires have arrived now. I've labelled them up (so I know what goes to what and in which direction!) I'll stick them all on the floor and take a picture for a laugh. Soldered a couple of connections this evening - most will not need to be soldered, thankfully.
Linitx sent me the correct DVD drive today and I connected it to the PC then the Seagate hard disc on the car PC died! Doesn't spin up so it's goosed. This model of drive has been reported as problematic (certain batches with specific firmware revisions). Waiting to hear from them on a solution: preferably refund 'cos they only seem to stock the model of hard disc that has kicked the bucket.
One day I'll screw the PC case together and that will be one job completed. Every aspect of the project is in the process of getting done without anything being completed so my head's all over the place.
This evening I had planned to swap the DVD drives, boot it up, plug in the Lilliput and configure the PC for optimum operation with the screen. Instead I messed about with the hard disc and got rather deflated.
I've sourced a power connector for the amp. It's called an Anderson SB50 and is commonly used in charging mechanisms for fork lift trucks! Should be able to mount it on the boot enclosure and have relatively easy and safe connection/disconnection of the amp's power and earth leads. I've been searching for something like this for over a week and it hit me yesterday that I work with electricians every day: only had to ask!
Let's see what tomorrow brings.

[ҢдщҚ]

Is it me or have i got this all wrong ?? With regards to the flashy dash ! I bought a cable with the software, it was specific for the vr4 AYC. The pin 9 is cut to stop flashy dash. I aint got a car yet to try it on but its allup on the website for allto read. How come people are having issues, just buy the right cable or from what i can see make one..

Please somebody verify what i have said is right or wrong. If i'm wrong i need to send the cable back to australia or wherever it came from ?

[apeman69]

I agree. I asked in this thread if someone could confirm, using V2.5 of Evoscan which has a menu item "Disable Mitsubishi flashing dashboard".
I've got the (rather expensive) Evoscan cable from New Zealand and Evoscan V2.5 but no computer in the car or laptop to test this feature. I, too, am hoping that it does work as expected. Once I have a replacement hard disc for my car PC I will test it and let you know... unless somebody else does in the interim.
I think it's not a cable issue because the pin 9 thing, as far as I understand it, just gives access to the ABS and AYC ECU's. I think it's simply a software issue hence the inclusion of the feature to switch flashy dash on or off. Anyone care to comment?

[n13l pm]

Wow I just read the whole thread, a lot of info.. the ICPC side of things brings back a lot of memories!

Good work there mate.

I know nothing about evoscan but I might be able to help on the amp power connectors question.. run me by what the problem is again?

[apeman69]

n13l pm, I want everything inside a box that can easily be removed from the car simply by disconnecting connectors/plugs/sockets to the relevant cables that will be running from front to rear of car.
I have all the sockets and plugs to mount all the required 'connections' to the back of the enclosure box apart from something that will fit either a 4 gauge or 8 gauge amp power and earth lead. So I'm after either 2 X one pole/pin connectors or 1 X 2 pole/pin connectors that will fit onto the amp wires.
The amp will have shortened power wires connected as normal to the amp. Then I want these shortened wires connected to some sort of plug/socket mounted on the back board of the enclosure. The reverse plug/socket will be then connected to a longer length of amp wire that will go to earth and the battery terminal respectively. The plug/socket mounted on the back board of the enclosure will allow me to disconnect the amp from the power and remove the enclosure box. This will be in addition to removing numerous USB connectors, PC power plug, VGA plug, audio in & out, speaker connections etc. The end of the amp cable needs to be insulated so that the wire/contacts of the plug/socket do not earth via the car's bodywork.
Using an electric kettle as an analogy, the heating element inside the kettle would be the amp; the body of the kettle would be the enclosure box; the wire going to the mains would be the amp wire going to the battery. In order for you to remove the kettle from it's power supply there is a plug and socket that simply pull apart and the cable connected to the mains remains safe as the electrical contacts are inside the plug (no intention to be patronising, just trying to describe it).
I could simply mount the amp under the back seats and have a standard permanent connection to earth and battery then run one connection to/from the PC (inside the enclosure) for the amp's remote turn on. However, I want everything in the one box and standardised in terms of installation and operation. One other advantage would be that if I sold the car and needed to remove the expensive equipment quickly then I could do so without having to necessarily rip up the carpets and trim to remove all the cabling or by cutting the wires and having to then rewire everything into another car. The connectivity core of my system is cable extensions and I have tried to design it so that it is future-proof in that every data or power cable termination is connected to it's destination via an extension cable. I can then remove the PC, amp, sub, enclosure and screen units quickly and easily and transport them to another vehicle if required, whilst leaving the extraneous cabling in the car should I wish to.

Here's a doodle 'cos I seem to be rambling now.....

In summary, I'm after an insulated 25 amp or more connector that will take either 4 or 8 gauge wire. Normal amp distribution blocks etc need an allen key to disconnect the wiring. I want an easier to operate plug/socket type connection rather than having to permanently mount an allen key on the enclosure's back plate or scrabble around my tools trying to find one.

[apeman69]

ҢдщҚ,

I've got the (rather expensive) Evoscan cable from New Zealand and Evoscan V2.5 but no computer in the car or laptop to test this feature.

Errrr..... scrub that! I've been sitting on the couch next to Phil's (my carpenter) laptop for the last few days. He asked me to install some software for him, which I haven't done yet, when we met to measure up the enclosure box so I will put Evoscan on his laptop and test the flashy dash theory with the 'genuine' Evoscan pin 9-less cable. I will try it with the "Disable Mitsy flashy dash" option selected and not selected to determine if it is the pin 9 thing or the software option that stops it, assuming either of these do actually stop the christmas tree...... and assuming I can successfully get the cable/software to interface with the car. Should be OK though 'cos I've tried the cable connected to the PC in the house with no obvious driver problems and it seemed to be reporting what I would have expected: "Hello, where's the bloody car?"
I feel totally stupid having his laptop hanging about and not thinking of trying this essential feature of my PC install. OUCH!

[n13l pm]

I see.. what comes to mind is banana plug and terminals, these can be simply plugged in and out.. for example:




Are you planning on installing a sub within the same enclosure? The vibrations from the sub will probably have some affect on your pc and amp.. I would sugguest having a different enclosure for that. I have also read that people who have mounted amps on the back or top of sub boxs have broken their amps. Over time the rattling of the micro-board inside the amp leads to cracks on the board or loosens connections. With the pc the vibrations of the sub might affect the hard disk.

[Nick Mann]

The point I would add is that the amp could potentially be a large heat source. As heat rises, I'm not sure I would put the PC above the amp.

Apart from that, keep the info and pictures coming! This is an interesting thread, mostly because I would like to do something similar one day!

[apeman69]

Nick, I think the PC should have adequate cooling. It also has thermo-monitoring and power shut-off control should it start to overheat. The amp also has an integrated self-cooling mechanism (though I do recognise that the generated heat energy has to dissipate to somewhere).
I'm more concerned about the vibration as, not having the amp and sub in a car for well over 6 months now, I had totally forgotten what it is like with the sub in there!
Anyone specialise in anti-vibration?
Are any of those 'sound deadening' / 'vibration damping' stick on sheets/feet or similar any good for this application?
The shock-resistance of the 2.5inch notebook hard drives looks pretty good to me and how many users have dropped their laptop and got away with it? However, constant vibration is another matter.
Anyone got any sort of vibration-sensitive equipment near to a subwoofer and have observations or advice.
I was thinking initially of covering the inside of the enclosure part that will house the PC and amp with sorbothane sheets then mounting the amp & PC on sorbothane feet. ?????

[apeman69]

Another point on PC heat: the case has two fans built in to the front and the whole of the top and sides of the case is an extruded aluminium heatsink. I would hope that the components would be safe from vibration and heat as they are designed for the automotive application.
I know that the hard discs and motherboards were not specifically desinged for in-car use but the casings and power supplies have been.
Suck it and see I suppose. I can always e-mail linitx quoting the Sale of Goods Act 1978 (amended) or whatever it's called.
My old (now dead and buried) desktop PC was virtually in front of a central heating radiator for at least 4 years and was often on for 24 hours per day. It eventually failed because the power supply burned out and the graphics card overheated (probably not related). I still use the same PC location today. These things have got to be built to withstand the operating environment or they're not fit for purpose.
I wanted to introduce cooling and anti-vibration features into my enclosure box simply to play it safe and make it 'cool'. I don't want to be periodically taking components out of this thing once it's been done. I'd like it to be 'fit and forget' which is probably why I'm taking so much time weighing up the options and pros & cons of every little detail (that's how it feels anyway).

Enough.... I've got some soldering and crimping to do.

[apeman69]

n13l pm, I thought about banana plugs and I think I decided against them as when the plug is disconnected the pin of the plug is not insulated. This would not be ideal for a live battery feed cable being left in the boot. Cabling is connected to the socket which, again, is not insulated at the point where the cable is connected. So neither plug or connector would be suitable for the live feed cable to the battery. This is similar with a lot of connectors I have investigated. However, the Aderson SB50 genderless connector is insulated, rated at enough amps and can be bought with connector pins that will fit either 4 or 8 gauge wire. How the hell I would crimp a 4 gauge amp wire to one of these pins I do not know! Bench-mounted vice perhaps.

[apeman69]

This is where I'm up to at the minute.
Waiting for the enclosure really.
I'll update the PDF as I progress.

Tested EvoScan on a laptop and the flashy dash menu option to disable it doesn't work. Connection with ECU is lost when you select it. Hamish Ahern (EvoScan man) said it's only for EVO 7/8 or something but not Galant/Legnum.
I think we have to put up with flashy dash unless pin 9 is disconnected on the cable and then you lose ABS/AYC ECU support I believe. That's my understanding of it anyway. If you know differently then let us all know.
The flashy dash thing is no big deal after all. I thought it would bug me to death but when I drove around with the cable/laptop connected it was kind of funky!

[Nick Mann]

That is a serious PDF! Have some rep.....