Warning : Replace creaky ball joints asap!!

[Robotnik123]

Am also concerned about after market lower suspension arms versus the Mitsubishi part. Would the aftermarket arms we get in NZ from BNT or someplace have the same issues as the UK ones?

[Ryan]

Just my 2c here but MMC Simon Lucas picked up the same fault when I took the car for it's first warrant after buying it.

They replaced the entire lower control arm. (think that's what it's called)

[bradc]

Just to confirm, is it the part marked 40320 or 40330?

[william]

I think it is 40320. Dave at Steering and Suspension said they checked the other side and it was OK. He seems to feel that we do not have to replace the arms routinely provided there is no play in the ball joints. So, go and have the ball joints checked and if there is play in them or if they creak, replace them! You cannot miss the creak - it is a loud noise similar to the noise when you really tighten those wheel nuts (or loosen them) The suspension should not make a noise when you turn the steering or compress it.

[Robotnik123]

I think it is 40320. Dave at Steering and Suspension said they checked the other side and it was OK. He seems to feel that we do not have to replace the arms routinely provided there is no play in the ball joints. So, go and have the ball joints checked and if there is play in them or if they creak, replace them! You cannot miss the creak - it is a loud noise similar to the noise when you really tighten those wheel nuts (or loosen them) The suspension should not make a noise when you turn the steering or compress it.

Yeah I hear a noise much like that coming from the right hand side of the car. Not when I turn the wheel though, but when I hit the accelerator and lay off it again in quick succession or sometimes on a bump in the road.

[william]

Have it checked, Jan!

[Robotnik123]

According to here and from what I can deduce from babel fish my lower arms were done in Japan. http://recall.mitsubishi-motors.co.j...ecallstatus.do

The arms also have white part number stickers on them, would original factory fitted arms be stickered as such?

Anyway, am pretty sure the recall has been done. Nonetheless there is the noise I hear somwtimes. So I dunno, any advice...

[william]

My recall was also done. The white sticker on the arm means it has been checked. That does not mean, as I have found out, that it is still OK! As I said, Jan, have it checked.

[Subaru ETA]

even if they were replaced in japan it doesnt mean that they wont wear out again! my old mans ford territory (which have an identical lower arm set up to our cars) has had both sides replaced 3 times! and its only done 50,000km!

[Robotnik123]

Right, will have the car looked at this week. Was out for a drive just now and for sure it was making the clunky noise again. And it does creak when I turn the wheel too I notice.

[Rambaud]

Just my 2c here but MMC Simon Lucas picked up the same fault when I took the car for it's first warrant after buying it.

They replaced the entire lower control arm. (think that's what it's called)

Mitsi dealer fitted a "new bottom suspension joint" at the MOT in July. Cost was £152.00 + £90.00 labour - both plus VAT.

The part number was MR296295.

[Robotnik123]

What's a good place to take a car to get its balljoints checked in Wellington? I guess there's the dealer, but what about a really good suspension specialist, just to be sure.

[Turbo_Steve]

Can't get mine to make the noise under any conditions except braking....so will get a big bar on there and check for play, but otherwise assume it's the caliper pins or something.

[CANDEE]

What's a good place to take a car to get its balljoints checked in Wellington? I guess there's the dealer, but what about a really good suspension specialist, just to be sure.

Jan,

I would either use Ron @ Total Performance in Petone, or the guys @ Maclennan Performance in town(if you go into Maclennan's dont take Dixon with you... he is prone to looking at wheel with his fingers and knocking wheels of the wall.... ).

J

[Robotnik123]

Well just heard back from the mechanic on my car. The noise I was hearing was from the rack end. So am getting them to fix that, as that's something that's been annoying me for a while, even though it is not bad enough to fail a WOF they say.

Ball joints are 100% OK too. The mechanic reckoned that the noise if it were balljoints would have been really loud. The noise in my car can't be heard with the radio on for example, but a failing balljoint creak would have been.

[william]

"You cannot miss the creak - it is a loud noise similar to the noise when you really tighten those wheel nuts (or loosen them)"


As I said!

[Robotnik123]

You cannot miss the creak - it is a loud noise similar to the noise when you really tighten those wheel nuts (or loosen them)


As I said!

Yeah that is kind of what I was hearing on my car, except I guess it wasn't quite that loud. It's been annoying me for a while though, so am glad it is going to be fixed.

[FNFAST VR4]

"You cannot miss the creak - it is a loud noise similar to the noise when you really tighten those wheel nuts (or loosen them)"


As I said!

Mine makes exactly this noise! I'm holding out til I get my bonus at work (first week of December they reckon).

I'll be driving very cautiously until they are done...

[Robotnik123]

Haha, jokes on me, the bloody noise is still there. Damn and blast! Am down $149.50. I reckon it must be the balljoint as well, just that it makes a noise, but it doesn't have any play, even if you test for excess play with a longish metail rod, as I requested done. Will get the lower arm done at my next WOF in a few months just in case. I'll have a word to the mechanic who wasted my money today as well.

[Davezj]

you might have what i have and the noise could be coming from the rack itself.

To check if it anything to do with the steering, you need to have the car stopped, drivers window open, car running. rock the steering wheel from left to right just enough to see the wheels start to move, and if there is a clunking/nocking noise then it is likely to be steering related.
Get out of the car put hand on track rod end and rock the steering wheel again and you should be able to feel better there. if you can't feel it on the track rod ends, then get someone else to rock the steering whell whilst you start putting your hands on the other linking arm to check for vibration/clunk.

I changed my rack rods and the track rod ends, before find out it was actually the rack itself clunking.