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Thread: Poly engine mounts

  1. #81
    peter thomson's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by phosty
    That's what I was originally thinking but then wondered if it would be sensible to support the engine weight on the sump casing - even using a piece of wood.
    That's the method I used Phil without any problems

  2. #82
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    mine arrived today

  3. #83
    Gly's Avatar

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    well been around to a few wreckers today,
    and no luck with another option for the front roll stopper,

    closest i got was the 92-96 shaped lancer with was the correct width,
    but the ID of the mount was 6mm to small.

    nothing else has gotten any closer than that.

    still going to look into other options,
    really dont want to pay $50US shipping for a $30US part,
    (around $150-160nzd are the current rate)

    i have posted on club3g and TGC to see if anyone can offer me something cheaper

    all the reat have gone together fine...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #84
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    i was trying the same but from superflex and polybush to see if them could get me a mount to fit the standard front roll stopper.

    superlex came up with a civic mount whis was 38mm wide but 78 diamiter and we need a 70mm diamiter mount.

    polybush has not got back to me yet so there is still hope.

    Bye for Now!

  5. #85
    Gly's Avatar

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    couldnt find an alternative...

    so bought a 2nd hand front mount from the US,
    $29usd delivered.

    now the waiting begins

  6. #86
    peter thomson's Avatar

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    Was that through one of the US forums Carsten

    Quote Originally Posted by Gly
    couldnt find an alternative...

    so bought a 2nd hand front mount from the US,
    $29usd delivered.

    now the waiting begins

  7. #87
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    My Prothane parts arrived yesterday - that was quick! Without any prompting from me the seller had declared a value of only $30 + $40 P+P so no duty/VAT paid either.

    Anyway, I fit the engine mount unit last night. It should be noted that this is also oil filled (it went all over my garage floor). I guess the oil must have leaked out of other peoples?.

    One final point to those about to do this - you might need (well I did) a deep reach socket to remove the nuts on the engine mount studs because the studs protrude too high to get a regular socket over - maybe offset ring spanners would work but I don't have any.

  8. #88
    peter thomson's Avatar

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    I just had oil in the gearbox mount. None of the others had oil though I didn't have to cut right through the rubber in all of them

    Quote Originally Posted by phosty
    Anyway, I fit the engine mount unit last night. It should be noted that this is also oil filled (it went all over my garage floor). I guess the oil must have leaked out of other peoples?.

    .

  9. #89
    Gly's Avatar

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    both the left and right mounts are fluid filled,

    and yes... i got me front roll stop from TGC (http://thegalantcenter.net/forum/)

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    I'm about to order some engine mounts and, thanks to Peter advising me about this thread, will aim to go down the poly route.

    The Eclipse is a lot more common over here so I'm thinking that I may be able to locate the parts here easier then from the US. Can anyone confirm what Eclipse I'm looking for so I can start looking for a front roll mount.

    A little off-topic and maybe requiring it's own thread -
    If the mounts are severely worn to the point where the engine moves about half a foot between R and D could it cause the gearbox to delay engaging gear when moving off? i.e if I come to a halt then put my foot down hard to pull out of the junction in a hurry the revs shoot up to 2500-3000RPM before the gearbox decides to pay attention. Scary when you realise you're not getting out in front of that lorry like you thought! Only happened 3 times so far over the space of a month.
    VR-4 #1 : Ernie, Pyreness Black, 98 Legnum Type-S, Leather, Moonroof & Stainless Sills, Fujitsubo cat back, Apexi RSM - Sold under duress
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  11. #91
    peter thomson's Avatar

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    00-05 Mitsubishi Eclipse V6 Lee

  12. #92
    Gly's Avatar

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    OEM Genuine Mitsubishi Front Motor / Transmission Mount
    Part number MR272203


    • 1999 to 2003 Mitsubishi Galant & Eclipse 3.0L 6cyl. Engine

    • All 1999 – 2003 Galant with a 3.0 L, 6 cylinder engine

    • All 2000 - 2005 Eclipse & Spyder with a 3.0L, 6 cylinder engine (manual & auto trans)

    • and 2000 - 2005 Eclipse & Spyder 2.4 L with a manual transmission.

  13. #93
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    Cheers Gly, I will see how much it will cost me tax free from Mitsi then.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beastlee
    A little off-topic and maybe requiring it's own thread -
    If the mounts are severely worn to the point where the engine moves about half a foot between R and D could it cause the gearbox to delay engaging gear when moving off? i.e if I come to a halt then put my foot down hard to pull out of the junction in a hurry the revs shoot up to 2500-3000RPM before the gearbox decides to pay attention. Scary when you realise you're not getting out in front of that lorry like you thought! Only happened 3 times so far over the space of a month.

    Something i've just experienced a little of recently with bits of movement from selecting 1st....anyone have an answer? did the mounts solve this problem?

  15. #95
    peter thomson's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by kennyb
    Something i've just experienced a little of recently with bits of movement from selecting 1st....anyone have an answer? did the mounts solve this problem?
    A failed engine mount can give this effect as can any slack in the drive train

  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by peter thomson
    The black cap is a lump of steel and acts as a harmonic dampener. I tried it off the car for a start and then put it back on. Didn't notice any difference though.
    I've only done my engine mount so far - but I definately noticed more cabin noise. Not vibration, just a whine that rises with the revs. It was very noticeable at first and to be honest quite annoying. I had left the harmonic damper off since Peter hadn't noticed any effect on his. However I subsequently fitted it and the whine has subsided to being something I can live with.

    I couldn't do the transmission mount (as you pointed out Peter) because the captive studs mean you either have to lower the whole gearbox/engine a touch or extract the studs. I couldn't get enough force on the spanner to try the two nut approach to get the studs out. Think I'll try a stud extractor but I don't want to damage the threads so I'm looking for one that fits the specific size.

    However, just doing the one mount so far has transformed my clutch action (manual with twin plate clutch). The whole front of the car would hop if I didn't get the engine speed up first - now it's so easy my wife can drive it. Need to get the rest done asap.

  17. #97
    phosty's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Catalan
    also we use poly for suspression from G2 4WD eclipse, total compatible
    but not all success after poly in suspression.

    here is item id
    300201424348 95-99 Eclipse & Talon DSM Prothane Bushing Kit 13-2001
    Catalan, can you be more specific about which of the suspension bushings were compatible too? Most of my rear suspension bushings are shot and the whole thing rattles.

    If some of the Eclipse parts fit that would be great. Polybush/Superflex in the UK only list 1 part (I think) for the rear suspension that fits our cars.

    Alternatively I might have to try Richards suggestion:

    Quote Originally Posted by zentac
    why not get some made in this country, there are 4 or 5 companies that would probably make some.
    Who can you recommend Richard?

  18. #98
    peter thomson's Avatar

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    Glad to hear it has made a difference to it's drivability Phil and a bonus your wife is happy to drive it as well. There isn't a lot of room to undo those studs as you have fond out .I may have used the two spanner method to apply more torque but off hand I can't be quite remember at the moment.

    Quote Originally Posted by phosty
    I've only done my engine mount so far - but I definately noticed more cabin noise. Not vibration, just a whine that rises with the revs. It was very noticeable at first and to be honest quite annoying. I had left the harmonic damper off since Peter hadn't noticed any effect on his. However I subsequently fitted it and the whine has subsided to being something I can live with.

    I couldn't do the transmission mount (as you pointed out Peter) because the captive studs mean you either have to lower the whole gearbox/engine a touch or extract the studs. I couldn't get enough force on the spanner to try the two nut approach to get the studs out. Think I'll try a stud extractor but I don't want to damage the threads so I'm looking for one that fits the specific size.

    However, just doing the one mount so far has transformed my clutch action (manual with twin plate clutch). The whole front of the car would hop if I didn't get the engine speed up first - now it's so easy my wife can drive it. Need to get the rest done asap.

  19. #99
    Beastlee's Avatar

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    I will eventually go down the poly route but for now I got a bargain on 3 of the 4 mounts from Stuartturbo. The gearbox one has already been done on mine so there's the two roll stoppers and the one opposite the gearbox to be changed. Once I have the old ones out I can look at removing the old mounts and getting poly ones fitted ready to replace.

  20. #100
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    Last edited by peter thomson; 27-04-2009 at 07:09 PM.

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