Help please from you electronic guys

[richy rich]

Ive got what I think is a buggered solenoid it is from my seat Alhambra, it is fuel cut off solenoid can I check whether or not it is buggered.

[Nutter_John]

if it is a solenoid then you should be able to register a resistance across the terminals

[richy rich]

if it is a solenoid then you should be able to register a resistance across the terminals

Cheers John but which terminals and what result should I get.
Im sorting out a pic of the case with the drawing on it.

[Davezj]

do you have any more detail a picture perhaps, number of terminals, etc, etc.

[richy rich]

A bad drawing

[Kieran]

Richy - Is the solenoid not working as in you can't start the car, or that you can't shut it off?

On the golf, the shut off solenoid was on top of the fuel pump and all it needed was a couple of bolts to undo and you could extract the piston that blocks the fuel delivery. Obviously you can only use this to troubleshoot as if you remove the piston the car won't stop!

[Davezj]

As i read the diagram A and E are you switch on off terminals the valve part.

15 is the Enable. which switches the coil on, and activates the A, E switch.

30 is the GND.

bit in the middle is the coil, bit which activates the switch/valve bit at ther top on/off.

not sure about the 86 and 31 looks like a square wave signal to switch on/off but i don't get it.

unfortuneately it is a bit of a sort of show you what is going on but until you can power it up in front of you it is not obvious.


Rich acn you measure the voltage at each terminal when the can is swithed off and when the can is running.

sorry i can't be any more help.

[richy rich]

Richy - Is the solenoid not working as in you can't start the car, or that you can't shut it off?

On the golf, the shut off solenoid was on top of the fuel pump and all it needed was a couple of bolts to undo and you could extract the piston that blocks the fuel delivery. Obviously you can only use this to troubleshoot as if you remove the piston the car won't stop!

Its a non starts/cutting out problem have been getting around it by using a direct feed from the battery to the the switch, it runs but in limp mode.

[richy rich]

As i read the diagram A and E are you switch on off terminals the valve part.

15 is the Enable. which switches the coil on, and activates the A, E switch.

30 is the GND.

bit in the middle is the coil, bit which activates the switch/valve bit at ther top on/off.

not sure about the 86 and 31 looks like a square wave signal to switch on/off but i don't get it.

unfortuneately it is a bit of a sort of show you what is going on but until you can power it up in front of you it is not obvious.


Rich acn you measure the voltage at each terminal when the can is swithed off and when the can is running.

sorry i can't be any more help.

Cheers Dave

I can check the voltage with engine off and get 12v on terminal 6 which is 12v feed from fuse box but the rest are 0v's. I can only get the engine running if I put a link from 6 to 4. Or sometimes it will work but as soon as I touch the wiring or solenoid it stops.

Im just not sure if its the wiring or the solenoid.

[richy rich]

OK I think Ive found what the problem is can you electronic gods confirm or not my final analysis. (before I pull all my hair out)
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/uploade...1227287965.jpg

OK on j491 fuel cut off relay Ive got 12v to terminals 2 3 and 6 and 0v's on 8 and 4 except on the odd occasion that all works then Ive got 12v to them as well.

If I put a link between 6 and 4 engine runs but in limp mode.

On J52 coil relay Ive got 12v to 1 3 and 5.

In conclusion I think the engine man ecu is up the swany.

Or is it something to do with immobilizer? engine cranks but does not fire.

[Kieran]

Does the haynes book of lies not say how the immobiliser works (as in what circuits it disables?) On Alex's golf it cut the fuel supply when the immobiliser was armed. I wonder if it's worth (If you can?) dismantling one of your keys and holding the transponder chip as close to the ignition barrel as you can?

[Davezj]

let me first explain a relay operation from a 12v, 0V configuration,

The coil is activated by having a voltage drop across it, 12v on one side and 0V on the other. this will cause the contactor part of the relay to flip position depending if it is normally open or normally closed type.

bearing the above in mind, did you check for voltages on the connector with J491 and J52 unplugged. to see which wires are the 12V feed wires. and which 0V (GND). check the 0V (GND) with buzz (continuity check). this would give more of feel for what is going on.

right here w go i will give to my best shot.

J52:-

for this relay to be active either pin 3 or 5 has to go to 0V. i would think it is 3.
when this relay is active it looks like it will switch the glow plug on.

do you glow plug work?

Pin 8 of J491 is connected to J248 T68 this wire is 0V. it seem like j248 is not gotting switched on and the 12V is not passing through to pin 8 J491.




J491:-

if the above is true then, when the coil of J491 gets activated pin 4 will go to 12V

What is N109?

sorry i can't be of any more help, but the disconneted voltage and continuity check would be useful.

but the putting 12V on pin 4 J491 does seam to be the right way to bypass this issue, but from the schematic i can't see why it goes in to limp mode, there must be more to it.

EDIT:- yes it could be an immobiliser issue, it depends where it is spliced in.

[richy rich]

Ok I think I've found the problem thanks for your input K and Dave.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...44&postcount=2

[Davezj]

Ok I think I've found the problem thanks for your input K and Dave.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...44&postcount=2

Well isn't the internet a wonderful thing, i know you would find it somewhere.

well done, it just a case of tracking down what i think wil be the dodge solder joint in you case, but for the issues found you probably better off upgrading it if it has not been done already.