I'm looking at 'obvious' places like ebay, pistonheads, mlr, even gumtree :-) for few months now without much luck. I was hoping that maybe our traders got/know where to look better than me or you, or some one got crappy gbox laying around and think that is not worthy to advertising, like I still got v6 box in bits just taking space, but you never know . Don't ask don't know.
His FL Legnum VR4 running 238.8 ATW HP and 500Nm @1.05 bar on LPG
Hers PFL Legnum VR4 COTY see here for full story
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My recent and ex Mitsubishi's
And I've found 8 gearboxes from Evo 4-6 on ebay within 2 minutes. Price up to 500 quid. Obviously none being given for free...
Ask any of the sellers to sell you 1st and 2nd gear and see what they reply to you . Please reread what I asking for, its INTERNALS, first and second gear and associated bits to change extremely short ratios of mentioned gears in vr4 box to be precise, not a whole gbox, I know it will be easiest way to buy a whole gbox swap few bits and throw rest in to the bin but I not lost my mind (YET), and one more thing, I dont recall where I was asking to be given any parts for free??
Last edited by adaxo; 29-11-2011 at 01:17 PM.
Internal usually cost approx. 80 to 100 quid each gear. Other day I did search for 3rd gear stuff for Krzys from Mitsumaniaki. That was the lowest quotes. IMO, you would do better, cheaper and quicker buying whole gearbox, swap internals and put back on sale purchased gearbox.
if you PM taylor. he bought an evo 4 gearbox put the evo 1st and 2nd onto a vr4 3rd 4th and 5th. or something along those lines
if you buy a whole evo box take what you want from it and then cobble together whats left into a frankenstein ration gearbox and sell it on ebay as custom you may break even or make a gain instead of being money down for buying half a gearbox and ending up with half a gearbox you cant sell
That is very reasonable option.
Any use of v6 gbox?? is just taking space and is very close to bin area now but maybe this is an option to swap gears in to vr4 box?? im sure I was read something about (don't know where) possibly usage of v6 box gears but cant find this now and don't remember what verdict was (good or no go)
Bloody hell, almost 5 years take me to source evo gbox it seems like few months back, anyway is there in my garage and waiting to get split, now quick (and probably daft) question, what exact need to be changed? both input and output shafts with all gears on it or it needs to be disassembled and swapped over gear by gear? @Nick Mann did you seen this process while was done on yours box by any chance?
No, I didn't see the process. Sorry.
There is a thread on here from Kenneth where he talks about his gearbox upgrade. I'm sure you need a hefty press to swap some gears over.
'97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods
My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold
Ok I just reread every thread gbox ratios related and split evo box to actually understand what's that all about and pls correct me if im wrong.
Do I need to swap everything over from middle shaft (output shaft) in picture (evo one) to vr4 shaft and then swap whole assembled shaft (input) from evo to vr4 case and keep that big wheel (crown) off vr4 box? @Kenneth @Adam.Findlay
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The big gear at the top of the photo is part of the final drive. You need to keep that and the gear it mates to. I understand that the gear it mates to is physically the same bit of metal as the shaft so you need to swap everything on that shaft.
Bearings for overhaul my spare box ordered, now just waiting game for order to arrive then need to find someone to replace them, then measure shims needed, other them, and put it back together. Hope month will be enough.
Parts no for reference
Mitsubishi MD710663 BEARING
Mitsubishi MD746743 BEARING
Mitsubishi MD747745 BEARING
Mitsubishi MD748457 BEARING
Mitsubishi MD746715 BEARING
Mitsubishi MR980742 BEARING
Can anyone link me to the right tool needed for removing bearing races from case? all on bay are to big
yes you need to swap all the gears across from the output shaft as you need to retain the VR4 output shaft as the final drive gear is machined into that shaft
what I did was put the evo 1st-4th gears from the output shaft onto my VR4 output shaft and then put the complete evo input shaft with my VR4 5th gear swapped onto the back end of it.
as for removing the bearing races. just heat the gearbox up with a propane torch or oxy-acetylene torch. as the alloy expands faster then the steel it will loosen up enough so you can pull them out by hand, or often they fall out when heating the case.
TBH I didn't expect it's so much hassle, I was thinking more like straight swap is required. Its not doable without press and selection of specialised tools which I don't have, I will try to ask gearbox specialist place to do it while I be there with my new bearing to be changed (when they arrive) and see how much it would cost, if is not much then I'm keen to swap it but if they say £100+ then I change bearings only and forget about evo ratios as its IMO not worth the hassle.
Bearing races usually fall off from big part of casing and I never struggle to take them off by light pry while I did my other box, what I'm struggling now is to take them out off 'clutch housing' part of box, but will try to heat them up and pray for the best, thanks.
I have my slide hammer out of the shed if you want to borrow it to hook under the bearing and give it a little pull out. Not sure if it will work or be required. I also have a propane torch if you need to get two on there to get more heat into the localised area.
The gear box casing will wick the heat away from the bearing area very quickly, you remember mat happened when we heated that bolt up that was stuck in the gearbox case. Remove the propane torch and the gear box case was almost cold after a good 5 min burn.
It might have been you propane flame was set to cold via the air shield round the outside of the flame. You try adjusting that to get a good blue triangle in the flame.
But you are more than welcome to borrow my stuff any time.
Bye for Now!
by the way for anyone that does not know the reason why a puk clutch bits hard than full face clutch it because the clamping force of the clutch springs is concentrated through a smaller contact of contact with a puk clutch so you actually get more force per area of the friction material. so it bites harder as long as the puk friction material can take the extra heat and ware.
a bit random i know but clutch realed.
Ok we did it, we ( with @Davezj ) spend most of the day today on playing with box, now the boring bit of genesis of all that work.
As you may know, if you read this forum often, that I have some problems with clutch, AGAIN, and I hate this job so to make this task more interesting I went on the bay and found evo 8 box as they have longer 1st 2nd and 5th gears, luckily I got one for decent price with cracked clutch housing, after taking it apart to actually understand this whole ratios difference thingy I realised that ALL things on output shaft have to be swapped over from evo box to vr4 box, so initially it was a rocked science to me and I was looking to price up this job done by gearbox specialist, went to one reputable and try to explain what's I'm after then he said NO it will not work and he can change bearings (that was my initial quote) for £150, then I politely say its a bit more than I was hoping to pay and leave.
Back home went on the bay and order this beauty she arrived next day, as promised in ad, then after quick chat with Dave, we both was up for a challenge, so make arrangement for today and we ply all day with this and various other tools and two gboxes, there's the results
here's the beauty
20160407_175416.jpg
work start slowly with taking apart vr4 output shaft
20160409_131356.jpg
then few minutes after
20160409_135315.jpg
we clean all parts thoroughly again with Davezj tools which hes kindly provided
20160409_171201.jpg
work in progress
20160409_175441.jpg20160409_180316.jpg
and we end up with this
20160409_184043.jpg
both output shaft have swapped over all bits and both input and output have new bearings fitted, so far so good but there's not happy ending, yet, what I struggle with is how to take diff bearings off? @Adam.Findlay we went to our local tools shop and there's nothing available to fit in really small gap between bearing and diff any clues appreciated
20160409_202351.jpg20160409_202502.jpg
Thanks Dave for going through with this as two brains are always more than one you a star
Last edited by adaxo; 09-04-2016 at 09:58 PM.
Just to add here, very interesting read about how properly put box together for future reference