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Thread: Boot installs

  1. #41
    Gly's Avatar

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    Got Bass??

    DD 3515c (Power Handling RMS/Peak 1500/6000)
    duel 2ohm coils
    3.5 cubic foot box, slot port, with a 40hz tune,

    running of a caliber CA2000D+ mono block amp (1 Ohm 13.8V) 1250W RMS
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  2. #42
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    The God of Bass approves!

    Christ, Gly, I'm guessing you don't have two pushchairs and a weekly shop in there very often?
    That is a serious install, and with twin 2ohm coils I bet rattles your eyeballs!

    Whilst I'm envious, I just don't need that much bass for the occasional long journey in a family car LOL

    I'm with Kenny, a well setup 8" or 10" should more than suffice for most people, and can be more easily hidden within the car.

    However, that being said....



  3. #43
    Gly's Avatar

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    the weekly shop goes in there,
    though some times flows into the back seat,

    and no push chairs, lol

    the STR is getting a 12" kenwood sub side install sub soon-ish

    and the GF's marino (think 4 door toyota levin) has a twin 12" pioneer sub install

  4. #44
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    Keen on the side install idea........seriously looking at it for ours.

  5. #45
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    As a Bass player, I love it when the Bass can be "felt". What a pity most sound engineers of live bands take that right out of the mix and complain the Bass is "booming".

    On another note (pun intended!) I really enjoy a BIG pipe organ for this reason, the Bass is amazing from those big pipes !
    Martin Yates

    97 Legnum VR-4 , 02 Mazda 6 (wifey's)


  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by martin_y
    On another note (pun intended!) I really enjoy a BIG pipe organ for this reason, the Bass is amazing from those big pipes !
    Absolutely! You almost expect fire and brimstone to come rushing out of the top of them!

  7. #47

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    good system deserve an awesome copy of some nina simone
    .

  8. #48
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    Depending on your boot size.......

    You could try something like my van of course!!!!

    4 x 6x9 JBL's Powered by a SPLX 1000w Amp

    2 x JBL Tweeters & 2 x JBL 3" component speakers Powered by a JBL 350w Amp

    2 x 10" AudioBahn subs in a band pass box Powered by a Mutant 800w Amp

    All backed up by an AudioBahn Farrrad Capacitor.
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    Despite the cost of living its surprising how popular it remains! Feel free to swim in my fishbowl anytime!

  9. #49
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    LMFAO!!! THAT must be killer in the cab!
    One of our sprinters has a sub-box under the passenger seat, some little hi-passed speakers in the dash, and some wicked things we found in the boot of an import screwed into the headlining. It sound surprisingly good!

    Martin, the problem with huge amounts of bass is that in a lot of venues it can get out of control very quickly, resulting in a muddled sound and potentially low-end feedback issues.

    That said, if it's set up right, this shouldn't be an issue: bass you "feel" isn't actually the sub bass, it's usually higher up...just "Bass" or "midbass". Frequencies between 100Hz and 300Hz are good candidates here. The "boom" is the sub bass, which (unless you're outside) needs to be limited, and is usually too low to be felt without some SERIOUS power output, which can be potentially very damaging to both your hearing and the venue LOL.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo_Steve

    Martin, the problem with huge amounts of bass is that in a lot of venues it can get out of control very quickly, resulting in a muddled sound and potentially low-end feedback issues.
    That said, they dont seem to mind if the kick-drum booms?

  11. #51
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    wanna stick another sub in the car an was thinking about the front, behind the dash, but dose anyone know how much space there is to work behind it?
    i think with the sub in the rear an one in the front, along with a good set of squeekers an tweeters it should balance the sound out nicely
    either that or go for a couple of slim line subs for under the front seats..... tho im not to convinced on them just yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gly
    Got Bass??

    DD 3515c (Power Handling RMS/Peak 1500/6000)
    duel 2ohm coils
    3.5 cubic foot box, slot port, with a 40hz tune,

    running of a caliber CA2000D+ mono block amp (1 Ohm 13.8V) 1250W RMS
    oh my god! that is some serious bass-ege right there!
    sod the buggies, an back seats is where its at for the shopping!


    Quote Originally Posted by martin_y
    As a Bass player, I love it when the Bass can be "felt". What a pity most sound engineers of live bands take that right out of the mix and complain the Bass is "booming".

    On another note (pun intended!) I really enjoy a BIG pipe organ for this reason, the Bass is amazing from those big pipes !
    why is it all bass players "feel" the same way?
    being a bassist myself!
    gotta love the 5th B!

  12. #52
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    Martin & meso, both of what you describe (including the kick drum) should mainly be mid-bass....hence feeling it...though agreed both should have a substantial sub-component. I hate boomy kick drums...it should punch so hard that the snare tries to take off!

    Sub-bass should mainly be about low-end fundamentals.

    So if you're looking to put a "sub" in the front of the car, you should think in terms of a really good pair of 8" cones fitted in the doors. Run these with bandpass of 60Hz - 250Hz, and you'll feel everything, as it hits you hard. Let the sub in the back do the true "Sub-bass" i.e. 80Hz down, and you will swear you've got your head inside the kick drum, or your sitting on the bass players amp.

    But here's the issue: no matter how many speakers you put in a car, it will never go as low as actually being in front of a PA, or even sitting in your living room with a decent setup. The interior of the car naturally starts rolling the bass off at 60Hz....for every 5Hz or so you get lower, you need twice as much power to achieve any response inside the car. By the time you're at 40Hz, you're going to struggle to actually achieve the note at all, as the wavelength of the note is longer than the cars interior! So all you're going to hear is phase cancelling: each time you try and make the low bass louder, the phase cancelling actually makes it quieter!!

    Martin: from the sound of things, you've been out with the wrong engineers, though don't forget that if you're playing on stage it is going to sound completely different to how it does for the audience. I've done stage tech, and was shocked at how "dry" the monitor mix was the first time I went out.
    But it's all in an effort to keep control of the sound for the audience. If we ran loads of midbass, and some decent subs on the stage, the deep bass would hit the back, turn 180degrees and fly out over the audience, now cancelling the aazingly powerful bass speakers used to entertain the audience.

    If you're playing with a large setup, you'll hear the kick drum booming on stage, as drummers usually have a fairly hefty drumfill, which is complete with it's own sub. It's unlikely the bass guitar has been routed to this much (depends on what the drummer likes to hear) but if you're only listening to the front-of-house subs, your bass guitar notes are running about a quarter second behind what you're playing by the time you get to hear them. Which means the notes from your bass amp are likely to be phase cancelling them out...at least to a degree.

    That said, a good engineer should be able to accomodate you to some extent...though they will argue that as long as you can hear enough to do your job (i.e play properly) then they've done their job. Which is why monitor mixers get paid less than Front of House LOL.

  13. #53
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    :-) That all makes sense.

    I admit I havent done that many gigs with an engineer. Part of my problem is my amp, I think. I think it has a long throw due to the ported cabinet ( 2 x 15s). And when its not loud enough for me to hear on stage, its plenty bassy in the audience.

  14. #54
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    I'd suggest turning it round to face the back wall, and see how it sounds.
    Throw sounds about right: part of what you may be experiencing is the length of the wavelength is such that you won't neccesarily hear really low bass unless you move away from the speaker. It's a known issue in recording studios (and dance floors!) when if you are too close to the speaker, the bass pressure change doesn't start happening until a specific distance away. The lower the frequency, the further the distance. And, of course, there tend to be dead spots at specific distances away from the speaker: either where reflect bass meets it's original wave front coming the other way and cancels out, or where fundamentals interact to induce phase cancellation.

    The most obvious example is when you go to a night club or similar playing drum and bass, and you can stand next to the loudspeaker stack and only get punchy kickdrum thumping away, but a total absence of any "bone rattling drops". Yet those in the middle of the dancefloor come away complaining that they were having trouble breathing.

    A recent gig at "the cresset" specified that an extra 10Kw of bass was fitted.
    So duly the relevant extra subwoofers were installed (as that is what they said we had to provide, against our reccomendation).
    Running the standard, balanced, rig together, we managed to achieve 115dB at the mix position, which means anyone on the dancefloor was getting a lot more: recorded was 132dB (which is painfully loud).
    With the additional subs, the sound pressure level at the mix position rose to 129dB, however remained at 132dB on the dancefloor.
    The extra subs (under the stage, rather than on it) were so close to the audience that they were having no effect.
    However, they were working hard enough to drag the stage forward 6 inches during the performance (by pressing aganst the legs) and to require the engineers to wear earplugs, and mentally rule out the sub bass. If Mid-Bass drivers had be provided, onstage, as suggested, the audience would have been pummelled into submission at those kind of damaging sound pressure levels.

    Fortunately, the engineer on the day had the good sense to back off for the most part, and keep things "on the threshold of pain" rather than "lasting hearing damage".
    Last edited by Turbo_Steve; 11-01-2009 at 09:29 PM.

  15. #55

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    i got 4 kenwood subs laying about that i might put in a false floor in the boot

  16. #56

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    I wanted my 2 x subs installed, one on either side preferably but not too fussed, to make more room for the doggies since the huge box I've got in there at the moment nearly takes up the whole boot.

    Quoted about $800 with one subs/amp etc, only got one quote tho so far.

    Sound about right?

  17. #57

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    This is the boot install I did in 10 hours...

    Install in my old car:


    Now in the Legnum:



    If you already have the gear, cables and time/know-how, then it's easy

  18. #58
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    Kitty,i do sound installs if you dont wanan spend 800,i know how the sound shops can be extravagant with prices.. but unfortunatly its how they is lol...

  19. #59
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    Steve what bout active subs??those vibrating things lol,iv heard good things bout those,and i see the recaro interior has a place the active sub can actually bolt to under the seat.

  20. #60

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    Approx how much would it be? I've really got to get my cambelt sorted first, but it was my next port of call...

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