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Thread: Limited Slip Diffs (LSD's)

  1. #1
    zentac's Avatar

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    Limited Slip Diffs (LSD's)

    From that I can tell, there are 4 brands of after market LSD available that will fit the FTO

    Cusco do a type RA and a type MZ, in both 1 way and 1.5 way
    http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/parts_prod...rs_typemz.html

    Quaife do their ATB Diff (Automatic Torque Biasing Helical LSD)
    http://www.quaife.co.uk/Mitsubishi-E...B-differential

    Phantom Grip do one
    http://www.phantomgrip.com/index-3.html

    Kaaz Do on
    http://www.kaazusa.com/intro2.html

    But which would be the best for a FWD drag car and why?
    Richard Batty
    2.5ltr V6 Turbo FTO

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    As far as I was aware ATB's are more for road cars, where strong engagement isn't necessarily required and they require little to no maintenance, whereas plate diffs will need rebuilding every X amoutn of miles or periodically.

    I have a Kaaz 1.5 way in the 205, I couldn't tell you if it's any good as it's still brand new, never used.

    I don't remember enough to comment regarding the 1 way, 1.5 way or 2 i'm afraid. Wiki has info though - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential
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    Roger Rally fitted an LSD in someones rear VR4 diff casing, can't remember who it was, but it is a regular on here, best bet is give RogerRally a shout, he was doing a lot with diffs on evos etc and was very helpful to me, cheers Louis
    Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.

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    Throbbe's Avatar

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    If you do go down the ATB route I'd also see if Peloquin do something suitable. Their setup seems very similar (almost litigatiously so) to Quaife's, but accepted wisdom in VW circles is that they are better built/more durable.
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    Best and cheapest option for you is to weld it. I know its the 'rough' way to do things, but in all honesty do you ever corner with it? LSD's are very much inferior to the plate diffs, but plate diffs do require more maintainance. The main advantage being if you get a decent plate diff (90%ish) then you can break a shaft and still have drive, which is handy if you need to get out of a stage!
    But honestly rich, as you dont need the diff to its job 100% of the time just weld it. It will corner horendously at speed, but will definately help you to get the power down

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    Turbo_Steve's Avatar

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    Gowf speaks good sense here: if you're simply dragging it, just weld it up and have done.

    If you want to go for track days.....then it's Quaife or Peloquin for my money.
    Used Quaife and was dead impressed. Haven't used Peloquin but have heard very good stuff about them.

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    If it helps, we have welded the diff in marks FTO.

    Cheers,

    Ben.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo_Steve
    Gowf speaks good sense here: if you're simply dragging it, just weld it up and have done.

    If you want to go for track days.....then it's Quaife or Peloquin for my money.
    Used Quaife and was dead impressed. Haven't used Peloquin but have heard very good stuff about them.

    First time i usd an lsd in a fwd car was a quaiffe torque biasing lsd in my 205 rally car. Was quite impressed with it, however they are not a patch on plate diffs for performance. Used 70 and 80% gripper plate diffs in a civic gravel spec car, but they were changed for a 95%spoon plate diff that transformed the car. Again were talking going sideways through forests and closed public roads though.

    Ive always planned changing the ayc for a plate diff at the rear and sticking a lsd in the front of the vr4, but everythings kinda ground to a halt now due to cash issues.

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