Manual Boost control on Fleabay

[ian_gelder]

Hi guys,

I am look to buy and fit a manual boost controller and was wondering if this would work:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/R-Spec-BOOST-C...1%7C240%3A1318

Do I need anything else or will this do the job?

Thanks

[elnevio]

Yep, that'll do it!

It's a ball & spring controller, rather than just a dodgy bleed valve, which is good!

Get it in, wind up the boost, and get ready to smile a lot!!

[ian_gelder]

Excellent stuff, just bought it! Any advice on fitting it or just is it straight forward? I have seen this guide (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19501) by spirit which seems to cover everything.

Thanks for the help.

[elnevio]

You'll need this one for the boost controller itself:

Correct link (without T-piece): http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13967

Original link (with T-piece): http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19617

[MPBVr4]

i bought one a couple of weeks ago. Not fitted yet . Seems to be reasonable quality and have done some bench test and seemsto control quite well with good repeatable settings

[Roberto]

Bought one and fitted a few months ago.

No installation issues.

Does what it says and you do notice the difference, just do the set-up in stages.
Don't go mad to fast.

[ian_gelder]

Cool, I should receive it tomorrow so need to find a nice empty road to test it on. I've heard 11 PSI is about right?

[CANDEE]

That depends on what your std boost is atm, mine is 11psi.. Most people up it to about 13-14psi as 15 psi can cause boost cut on some cars...

[Roberto]

I'm set to around 12, spiking to 14.

But I would fit the boost gauge first and note what your running at first.
For even as long as a week, just to sure, before fitting the manual gauge.

[ianturbo]

You'll need this one for the boost controller itself:

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19617

So ,is this why i get fuel cut at only 10/11 psi ?? better blank the T piece off then
ian

[Roberto]

Well I fitted mine direct to the Red ringed rubber hose.

And have not had any fuel cut at all, fitted now for 3 months. Including JapFest Finale Drag racing, not been an issue.
And I cna feel the difference.
Asked the question at the time and the answer never mentioned a t-piece to be changed.

Do we have a difinitive answer.



Oh and I do hate when we get different answers to the same questions.



Or is the Dawes Device different to the Manual Boost contoller, if so can that link be removed to save any/more confusion.
Cause the type I have is a ball and spring.

[Turbo_Steve]

Right, few things to sort out here.
An MBC is a Mechanical boost controller, not a manual one. Manual boost control would be pinching a pipe or pressing a button everytime you got to target boost.
It's also the throttle pedal

So:
Yes, different types of MBCs work in different ways and have different profiles, and can be fitted differently.

For example, most are simply bleed valves, and as such alter the reaction time against any (factory) electronically controlled bleed. They are usually harder to tune, as spool slows as the actuators near their target boost, irrespective of bleed. They are also more prone to spiking, as the bleed profile varies with input pressure and temperature. This is because a bleed will reduce the 'quality' of the pressure signal reaching the wastegate, as opposed to changing it.

A ball and spring valve works differently, remaining resoloutely closed below a specific threshold, and bleeding above it. Should the signal pressure drop below target, it simply closes the wastegate. This means extremely responsive wastegate control, leading to very rapid spool and minimal creep as long as your wastegate is big enough, and the bleed rate (which is usually fixed) is rapid enough (but not too rapid).

There is also the issue of restrictors to consider: most factory setups have a pipe with a restrictor in it. This 'smooths' boost control on electronic systems, helping faster spool and stopping 'hunting' at target boost (where the electronics react so quickly that they actually continually reign in and let out the boost).

Finally, if you fit a device, it needs to be plumbed correctly. So a dawes device should go an a pressure send as close to the turbo outlet as possible, and be tee'd to both wastegates. A bleed valve, however, is usually better sited close to the throttle body and routed to the wastegates. It can also be used in conjunction with the factory boost solenoid to improve spool times.

Electronic systems are best if they feature a 3 port solenoid that can bleed back to a vacuum, though this is by no means neccesary on a normal integrated wastegate.

[Roberto]

Great write up and explanation Steve, thanks.


But where should the type ordered in the opening post be fitted?
If there is a difinitive answer that is.

[elnevio]

The Dawes Device is a ball and spring one, as is that one you've bought, so fitting should be the same.

[ianturbo]

The Dawes Device is a ball and spring one, as is that one you've bought, so fitting should be the same.

Thats the one i have just bought also ,do i need to block the T piece off then ?
ian

[elnevio]

Thats the one i have just bought also ,do i need to block the T piece off then ?
ian

Which T are you on about?

That controller just goes inline in the indicated pipe - a simple process of a) cut pipe; b) insert boost controller (right way round of course), and that's it. You have boost control!

The only T you'll need is to T into the boost source pipe for the boost gauge! Sorted!

[shaun1978]

same as roberto says, first off I would fit a gauge as otherwise your just peeing in the wind if you want to set it to a specific boost, also helps set it up so much faster.

[ianturbo]

You'll need this one for the boost controller itself:

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19617

This T piece , i have tried two differant boost controlers and get bad fuel cut at 80/85 mph thought it was the boost controler so got a dawes one and fit it on saturday turned it up to 10/ psi and 80 in 3rd fuel cut so turned it right down to standard about 8 psi not a hint of fuel cut !!
ian

[elnevio]

This T piece , i have tried two differant boost controlers and get bad fuel cut at 80/85 mph thought it was the boost controler so got a dawes one and fit it on saturday turned it up to 10/ psi and 80 in 3rd fuel cut so turned it right down to standard about 8 psi not a hint of fuel cut !!
ian

Ah, ok. My bad!

This is the right link! http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13967

And is exactly how I installed mine...

[Roberto]

Cheers Lads,

Just making sure there is no confusion.