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Thread: Removing tweeters

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    Removing tweeters

    Can I ask how people removed and replaced their tweeters? Do I just cut the wire and unbolt ther three bolts or is there more too it?

    Thanks

    Andy

  2. #2
    Davezj's Avatar

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    here is one way of doing it, i am not saying it is the right way.

    unclip plastic cover, be careful not to damage plastics.

    unbolt wing mirror.

    remove metal bracket so the plastic bit comes away from the wing mirror.

    cut wires to tweeter.

    attatch new tweeters.

    well that is how some did it on my car before i got hold of it. they fitted a crossover in the door as well, so the tweeter wire straight back to that.

    there is just enough space to put a crossover in behind the door card.

    Bye for Now!

  3. #3
    MikeKey's Avatar

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    I disconnected the tweeters at the little white connector plugs when I did mine, then re-used the connector with the new tweeter. There's probably no need though, especially if you're wiring into a crossover in the door.

    I also re-used the metal brackets by heating them a bit so I could remove the old tweeters, then attaching the new ones with sticky pads.

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    Ahh using heat to remove the bracket is an excellent idea! I had just taped mine into the plastic clip. Tomorrow I will try the heat method. Sounding pretty good already for just one speaker and component installed!

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    Heating method worked a treat on one bracket but couldn't het the damn screw out of the other one. Never mind!

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    Hey guys stumbled over this thread. Brought some Infinity speakers to replace the stock Mitsubishi ones. I want to wire a crossovers but I am not too sure where to wire the Capacitor lug (crossover). Thinking about just putting them in the centre console and running longer cables as I am worried about them getting wet in the doors. I guess i could stick em in plastic bags but seems a bit naff. Any help greatly appreciated.

    Cheers Andy

    Andy Britchfield

  7. #7
    Turbo_Steve's Avatar

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    They're solid state, so they should actually be okay in the doors. Nothing wrong with the plastic bag technique, to be honest, but it's probably overkill: it really doesn't get THAT wet in the doors.

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    Hi Steve, might take another look at this. The original speakers were quite rotten and damaged but then they have been in the doors 10 years. Although they are surrounded by a plastic cone it looked to me water had got at em. Btw. I used the original door wiring but just cut off the speaker plugs. Has anyone re-routed new speaker cable through the doors and into the console. I have hands the size of Gorilla's so I find working in confined spaces tricky!

  9. #9
    bonesthebutcher's Avatar

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    When I did a full ICE fit to my Galant 2 years ago I ran new cable through into the doors - and I've still got the bruised knuckles

    With the main speakers and plastic surrounds out of the door, I unwound the "insulation tape" Mitsi use to seal up the cable entry into the door inner. Think I had to use a sharp knife to get it started as I couldn't easily see where the end of the tape was! Then, with the door wide open, from the footwell I pushed through a thickish solid copper wire (stripped out of some spare house wiring Twin+Earth). Took a few attempts, but I got there

    I then soldered the speaker cable to the solid copper wire in the footwell and, with the help of silicone grease spray and a fair amount of swearing, pulled the lot into the door.

    I left the original cables and plugs in place so, should I ever sell the car (heaven forbid ) I can strip out my mod's and refit the factory drive units.

    If you do end up putting the capacitor/cross-over in a plastic bag, make sure the wires and bag opening exits downwards. That way, should any water get into them, it'll drain out of the bag.
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    Talking ICE ICE Baby!

    Dude, that looks a neat bit of work....I particularly like the Bacofoil!

    On a more serious note I am going to have to revisit my install. What's amazing is that after fitting Kappa Infinity Speakers, tweeters etc and a Pioneer head unit, I have to be playing it almost full pelt to hear it over the engine noise and cheeky exhaust.

    I could have probably achieved the same result with a lot less money spent....did i mention I was stone deff as well?

    I will have a crack at running new speaker cables through the doors me thinks.

    I can see why a lot of fitters of stereo equipment have a hot glue gun at the ready for the plastic they break on the way. I am a bit heavy handed but aged plastic seems to get a bit brittle.....probably just me!

    Cheers

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    Just my 2c, when I have put the speakers in to the doors (old sold Galant) is simply used a wire coat hanger...stripped it down to the length of...30cm's I think.
    Then taped the speaker wire to one end and feed it through the housing from the "footwell".
    Took a couple minutes but once it's through the other end (door side) you just pull it on through and re-use for the next 1 / 3 doors.

    I still need to update the tweeters in the VR4 as they are stock but have only placed the 4-way speakers on the old wiring for now in the VR4.
    As I need to remove the interior to run the power and rca wires to amps & capacitor I'll just wait 'till then.

    Will take photos when I get around to it if people want?

  12. #12
    Goku's Avatar

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    Errrrmmmmm there is a far easier way to mount the crossovers on the Galants and leggies, just cut into the styrofoam on the door cards and mount the crossovers into it. Hold them in place with a good adheasive. That's all I did on my brothers leggie and it worked a treat.
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  13. #13
    CANDEE's Avatar

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    There should also be a plastic bit on the inside of the door that you can mount the crossovers to as well...

    Is expecially roomy if you take out the above polystyrene.

    J

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