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Thread: Project Finesse Commences - The Rebuild

  1. #81
    Turbo_Steve's Avatar

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    However, all the knackered mounts may rather be a symptom of the aggressive shift, rather than the cause.

    Chances are that you've got a sticky solenoid, or a blockage or similar.

    Although you've done a fluid change, you may need to use it a bit to get the fluid through all the hydraulics: if something is gunked up it will take quite a bit of amsoils finest to break it down. And then, of course, you'll need to empty the box and refill again

  2. #82
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    The stuff that came out was much cleaner than I expected and actually cleaner than any of the others I've seen on here. Will give it a chance to get flowing through the box and see what happens. The forward gears are so much smoother even after 800m!
    VR-4 #1 : Ernie, Pyreness Black, 98 Legnum Type-S, Leather, Moonroof & Stainless Sills, Fujitsubo cat back, Apexi RSM - Sold under duress
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  3. #83
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    Well all front lower arms are replaced, the lateral ones are new and the compression ones are from one of Carl's breakers. None of the fitted ones actually seemed that bad but the driver's side one was a little stiffer and that's the side I've had issues with. Can't get the dammn balljoint to stop spinning when tightening up the nuts so I'm hoping leaving it sat with the body weight back on it will help.

    TCL can is replaced too as mine was cracked although not leaking.

    Tried to refit the stock bov but unfortunately the vacuum connection snapped off so the allo one is cleaned and refitted. Almost spotless anyway, no sign of oil leaks.

    Snow stopped me bringing it home again so it remains in the workshop. Next job will probably be the spark plugs if they arrive tomorrow. if not then I'll try doing the rear diff on the ground.

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    Lee, get a jack or jackstand under the ball joint, that way you got weight on both sides(well sort of) then tighten that down.

  5. #85
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    Raph, I tried it to th point the car was lifted off it's axel stand and it still wouldn't tighten....dammn thing

  6. #86
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    Add a couple of washers Lee and try tightening it up and then remove them when it's locked

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by peter thomson
    Add a couple of washers Lee and try tightening it up and then remove them when it's locked
    I'll give that a go and I reckon it'll work well as the issue is the locking nut having more friction than the ball joint

    This afternoon will be a ball-joint and new plugs session I think!

  8. #88
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    Thought I should mention that your advice was perfect Peter. Shame it didn't fix the knock but I think it's the ARB bush now.

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beastlee
    Thought I should mention that your advice was perfect Peter. Shame it didn't fix the knock but I think it's the ARB bush now.
    great, glad it worked

  10. #90
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    Just a couple more changes

    About time I updated this thread! Some new shiny bits fittes....


    SARD R2D2 BOV - Fitted it facing back and toward the passenger front wheel, should stop stuff getting in the vent:


    Fujitsubo Super Legalis R -

    1. All the bits laid out, you get the two sectons in immaculately TIG welded stainless, two brackets and a sheet with vacuum wrapped bolts, washers, nuts and another hanger.


    2. Looking down the mid pipe it looks like a pretty good path, no sign of diameter changes....


    3. ...unfortunately though they necked it down to 2.5" to meet the cat.


    4. They do make up for it at the other end though....


    5. Easy fit mountings that feel very sturdy. My only issue is that this one on the front of the backbox occasionally taps on the rear subframe mounting cone.


    6. Lots of shinyness! Good routing that clears everything and doesn't hang down too low.


    7. Fits like a glove. I must admit though I think the 4" tail-pipe is a little OTT, now I have no stealth from in front or behind!


    I left the cat in place whilst Glenn (Wodjno) and I swap de-cat pipes. Car now sounds lovely both under load and when you let off the gas! Tick over is reasonable and cruising at 70mph through to 130mph has proven to almost be quieter than stock.

    I did find that I'm now getting fuel cut in 5th under load and it was repetetive so I had to let off. This was in 20+ degree heat so not a cold issue, 13.4psi seemed to be the limit. Have noticed it's pretty eas to trigger it in the morning too, that was just with the BOV change.

    Have done the MAF mod now too so will see if it reall makes a difference.
    Will be doing some evoscan and e-01 logs later to see what's happening.
    Last edited by Beastlee; 29-05-2010 at 04:14 PM.

  11. #91
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    Zorst is looking good Lee.
    The mighty Leedsnum has gone but the Airtrek mods will soon fill this space


    How To:Contact Committee or Moderators.

  12. #92
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    Hmm, MAF mod seems to have helped. Did an autobahn run earlier and not a single hint of fuel cut, it reallly felt good. AFRs stayed at 10 and above for 98% of the time, just dipped a little into the 9s shortly after closing the throttle from a run and at about 145mph the boost was going on and off like mad.

  13. #93
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    Result, managed to get a set of genuine Mitsi LHD headlamps and indicators (orange unfortunately) in mint condition for a measly €50! Now to find some genuine clear indicators. Tomorrow they will be fitted and that will be the final part replacement from the accident in Feb 09!

  14. #94
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    Headamps tured out to be LHD ones converted back to RHD so had to go back.

    Now have the cabon wrap dash installed, looks OK but a couple of flaws that annoy me:
    IMG_0635.JPGIMG_0637.jpgIMG_0636.JPG

    Also fitted a SARD Radiator from Ariadne and a separate transmission cooler as the rad is for a manual car:
    IMG_0626.jpgIMG_0629.jpgIMG_0628.jpg

    Not much left to do now, must get the ARBs and links fitted then my only real wants are to replace the suspension and replace the interior with something more supportive up front and leather throughout.

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