Another creaky ball joint warning!

[Turbo_Steve]

I suspect that all the failures happen at low speeds as the joint looks like it's under the most load when the wheels are fully turned...which you only really do at maneuvering speeds (unless you're hanging the tail out).

[Davezj]

can you get replacement dust covers for the lower arm ball joints?
because you can get them from the track rod ends.
maybe it would be a possibility to regrease them and replace the cust covers once a year, or every 2 years.

[The Vee]

Think PSB drilled and fitted some after market ones with grease grease nipples. I believe it gave limited success.
On Mitsi replacements, they are exactly the same as the original except that the rubber seals are improved. On the recalls if there was not excessive play in the joint, they did not replace them but merely used a compound to seal the rubbers properly. The whole problem was apparently water ingress causing the joints to become washed out and corrode. Mine were not replaced as were deemed good. A few months later I bought a new pair off Mitsi and fitted them just for peace of mind. I do now take them off annually and check very thoroughly for any signs of wear / water ingress.
I have been looking at the USDM strut design, but alas it may not be as easy to swap over as I'd hoped, looks like it would require a different subframe and the inner wing seats look different.
EVO set up is also of the type I would like (very similar to USDM Galant) but that doesn't look like its doable either. Never say never, still working on it!

[Louis]

Think PSB drilled and fitted some after market ones with grease grease nipples. I believe it gave limited success.
On Mitsi replacements, they are exactly the same as the original except that the rubber seals are improved. On the recalls if there was not excessive play in the joint, they did not replace them but merely used a compound to seal the rubbers properly. The whole problem was apparently water ingress causing the joints to become washed out and corrode. Mine were not replaced as were deemed good. A few months later I bought a new pair off Mitsi and fitted them just for peace of mind. I do now take them off annually and check very thoroughly for any signs of wear / water ingress.
I have been looking at the USDM strut design, but alas it may not be as easy to swap over as I'd hoped, looks like it would require a different subframe and the inner wing seats look different.
EVO set up is also of the type I would like (very similar to USDM Galant) but that doesn't look like its doable either. Never say never, still working on it!

I agree, as far as I am aware it was the rubber that was the problem not the ball joint itself, but the crap rubber would let water and dirt in which would cause the failure of the balljoint. If ball joint looked and felt good when checked they may just replace the rubber boot as it was the prob. Most I have heard of were replaced, I haven't heard of anyone who didn't have the whole arm replaced when it went in for the recall.

[ANTHONY]

My jeep grand cherokee had grease nipple all over the place and the hand book said these had to be done every 6 months. as a matter of course.

I'v just fitted new track rod ends from camskill and they come with grease nipples. also when I had my car done at mitsi for the recall they just ordered new arms and fitted them,they did not even bother checking them..just replaced them

[Louis]

Same with mine, (long time ago), they just replaced both arms.

[vikvallabh82]

I have the same problem however it is post recall change, so I shall have to wait and see what mitsi say.. fingers crossed they accept the liability and fix it!

[Oblivion]

I've just done the other arm / ball joint as the steering felt like it stiffened up again. This time around there was NO creaking of the joint beforehand so just a gentle reminder to not rely on that to warn you. Luckily it held together until I got to the workshop this time

[Robotnik123]

I've just done the other arm / ball joint as the steering felt like it stiffened up again. This time around there was NO creaking of the joint beforehand so just a gentle reminder to not rely on that to warn you. Luckily it held together until I got to the workshop this time

Hi Oblivion,

What's your view on doing the curved arms as well as the straights? Did you just do the straight ones on yours? Also how much did they cost? Is $120 each a good price for the straights - eg. this auction on trademe:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-268611326.htm

Thanks!

[Oblivion]

I'm no expert but I wouldn't think changing the curved arms is necessary, it would cost a bit more to do of course but wouldn't improve or fix anything. Unless there is a prob with our curved arms that I dont know about?
I only did the straight ones on mine, $120 is around the average price for them which is about what I paid for each of mine.

[mpau009]

I was getting replacement tierod ends for the L200 last month, and out of interest asked these guys for a price on the VR4 lower straight arm. http://www.finda.co.nz/business/list...-distributors/

The guy i spoke to on the saturday there quoted me $88+gst when i mentioned i was part of a VR4 car club.

Might be worth a call if anyone is considering changing theirs. Obviously they arent mistubishi branded, and i cant vouch for them, as i havent needed to change mine as yet, but is a handy contact for suspension stuff in general.

[Subaru ETA]

those guys are really on to it... 1 of 2 places i get my wheel alignments done.

[bradc]

If they aren't mitsubishi then don't but them. Look for the camskill arm thread of very early failures.

[Robotnik123]

I was getting replacement tierod ends for the L200 last month, and out of interest asked these guys for a price on the VR4 lower straight arm. http://www.finda.co.nz/business/list...-distributors/

The guy i spoke to on the saturday there quoted me $88+gst when i mentioned i was part of a VR4 car club.

Might be worth a call if anyone is considering changing theirs. Obviously they arent mistubishi branded, and i cant vouch for them, as i havent needed to change mine as yet, but is a handy contact for suspension stuff in general.

Just bought a couple of TRW brand straight arms from Repco for 97.78+GST (110 incl GST) each. Only the left side of the car is clunking at the moment, but call me paranoid, I figured I might as well replace both sides while I am at it.

Repco have curved arms for $133.78+GST ($150incl), by the way. Prices are retail, not trade.

[Robotnik123]

If they aren't mitsubishi then don't but them. Look for the camskill arm thread of very early failures.

Oops too late, just bought some non-Mitsi ones from Repco. Fingers crossed they're OK. They've got to be better than my old clunking arms anyway.

[bradc]

return them and buy mitsi ones

[Ryan]

Just because Camskill ones might have failed some time in the past does not necessarily mean that all non-MMC parts are going to be duff.

[bradc]

would you be willing to bet your car on that?

[Ryan]

Yeah, why not? Mitsubishi ones fail too.

[miller]

Just the straight ones have failed aftermarket not the curved arms!