If in good condition a standard clutch will hold a vr4 on raised boost.
If you drive it like you stole it then it won't last long.
If in good condition a standard clutch will hold a vr4 on raised boost.
If you drive it like you stole it then it won't last long.
soo in all results if i have a 98 vr4 galant 2.5 TT v6 my clutch is slipping am i best to get an evo 7-9 clutch with or without pressure plate... do i need the extra longer bolts and a spacer and what would my clutch size be a 240mm/230mm or 220mm????? as far as conversation goes with people in taranaki N.Z exceedy is a crap brand of clutch and are constant returns...
Ahhh I have fitted and used many a exedy clutch with no issue to lots of different cars....
I had a sports tuf exedy in my vr4 and it was mint
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this suitable?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-360001232.htm
Hi My Clutch has started to slip. in fact its slipping quite often. i would like to buy the EVO 7 standard clutch kit from camskill, which one do i buy, clutch kit for 6speed or for 5 speed? also from my understanding this kit should be able t handle more power than a standard vr4 kit? i have a 1999 Galant Vr-4.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
It won't fit unless you get the adapter plate for it.
Look at the Exedy kit MBK-7223HD this is recommended by Exedy as a direct fit to the VR-4
it will work on a stock flywheel, 5 or 6 speed shoudnt make a diff, i used the evo 8 kit
i was going that route until i saw the price....guess will have to save up for one...in the mean time i'll get me s standard 240mm clutch from somewhere. how many splines are in our clutch plate?
Exedy part number for clutch plate (which many non exedy mnufacturers may be able to use or reference) is MBD-073
thanking you millions!
We have the Exedy organic unit in the RVR, about a year old and low mileage but it ids slipping in 3rd/4/5th if you load it. Can air in the hydraulic lines cause this?
VR-4 #1 : Ernie, Pyreness Black, 98 Legnum Type-S, Leather, Moonroof & Stainless Sills, Fujitsubo cat back, Apexi RSM - Sold under duress
VR-4 #2 : Wallie, Finesse Green, 96 Legnum Type-S, Erebuni CF bonnet, Profec E-01 & EMB, TRE fuel pump, RPW Downpipes, De-Cat, Fujitsubo Super Legalis R, LC-1, NGK Iridium Plugs, SARD Radiator, Greddy Hard Rad Pipe, ATF Cooler, FMIC, Forge Recirc BOV, KAD 6 Pot 330x28 Brakes, HEL Braided Lines, 17"X8.0 Rota Torques with Wintrac Xtremes, Fully Synth Oils, Ultimate 102RON Fuel, Stainless Sills - Sold after 4 great years
iirc the RVR uses a pull clucth so with air in the system it will make no difference as by default the clutch cover is locked against the pressure plate until you release it with pressing the pedal
Bugger, that's both cars knackered then, was hoping it was due to the dodgy bleeding we did. If it's not that it's obviously going to be expensive as the clutch can't have worn out already.
Oh, well I won't take up any more of this thead.
Righto Ive been asked by quite a few people what clutch should they use so here is what I know and what I have done hopefully its usefull to any new members with the same question
Option 1
Evo 7-9 clutch kits fit onto the standard flywheel how ever as the evo pressure plate/clutch cover is physically thicker/deeper when mounted to the vr4 flywheel it hads a chance of snagging and hitting the inside of the bellhousing NOT GOOD! there is evidence of this occouring in other threads
this issue can be avoided by switching to a shallower EVO flywheel in conjunction with evo clutches and one of Nick Mann's flywheel spacer plates this moves the working position of the clutch toward the engine further which stops it hitting on the bell housing. This is option one
Option 2 you can do the easy thing and just buy a clutch meant for a vr4 and not worry about spacers flywheels or the clutch impacting the bell housing and all will be well
Option 3 (what I have done)
I didnt want to use evo stuff as I wasnt to happy with the idea of putting all of the power/strain of the car through a spacer plate (nothing against Nick Mann's product as it has many sucess stories)
nor did I want a standard clutch so I did a bit of research and decided on a EXEDY MBK-7223HDCB (Heavy Duty pressure plate with a cushoned button clutch disc)
and to be on the safe side I looked at the flywheel desgin, it has a flex plate on the back which secures it to the crankshaft, essentially a thick piece of sheet metal, considering I used a heavy duty pressure plate and the fact our cars are pull clutch I thought that that extra force pulling on the pressure plate and therefore pulling the flywheel may cause the flex plate to deform and cause the clutch assembly to move away from the engine causing the same contact with the bell housing as with the evo clutches. this combined with the idea of a lighter flywheel prompted me to get a custom single piece billet flywheel made. this will provide the desired weight and eliminate any chance of the flex plate deforming under the extra load of the new clutch.
here are the pictures of the flywheel and clutch
DSC00182.jpgDSC00186.jpgDSC00206.jpgDSC00189.jpgDSC00195.jpgDSC00209.jpgDSC00187.jpgDSC00179.jpgDSC00181.jpgDSC00205.jpgDSC00180.jpgDSC00207.jpgDSC00183.jpgDSC00197.jpgDSC00188.jpgDSC00196.jpgDSC00194.jpg
Check out 'competition clutch' they have a big racge of standard to puck clutches and are pretty good value. plenty of people now using them and i haven't found any scare stories yet. I've seen one 450bhp clutch of theirs burn out but the guy was putting just over 600bhp through it drifiting so probably to be expected.
The only VR4 legnum that has my backside rut imprinted on the drivers seat.
I have put an Exedy HDCB on the standard flywheel. Thought about a lightened but felt that I would probably want to to change the final gear ratio, first and second I find are all ready pretty quick changes.
Yeah, it helps to change the gear set and put in a Evo 2.785 1st and 1.95 2nd. I find this mod is brilliant and wouldn't go back unless I had no other choice.
The RVR has a skimmed flywheel but not lightened, with the Evo III box it's very short but 1st and 2nd are particularly short.