Last edited by m0rphs; 19-05-2009 at 07:30 PM.
Yes it does and yes you can. The easiest one is probably the hose to the waste gate supply which is on the back of the manifold not far from the brake servo connection. A T piece required. Others use the hose near the solonoid valve. There are plenty of good threads and pics on this site to help you
What i meant was can i T off the vac hose thats already in the cabin for the TT?
Thanks
Daz
No reason why not, however it will only be as accurate as the boost source, and the T will mean a (very slight) delay on the gauge reading.
Thanks steve, ok i now have another question!
i`ve just fitted my mbc.
as i only have in the way of mods the exhaust, whats a safe level of boost to be running.
on the Blitz with the mbc unwould its reading 1.02 kg/cm2
on testing i found that i could goto 1.22 before hitting (fuel cut?).
so is this reading the same a BAR, as in 1.02 bar?
i realy am fairly new to this so please bear with me.
would it run 1.15 and still be safe (leave a little room for boost spikes?
or could i goto 1.2?
Thanks for any info.
Daz
Last edited by m0rphs; 20-05-2009 at 05:15 PM.
1 Bar Equals 14.50psi
1 kg/cm2 Equals 14.22psi
Kg/cm2 value = equivalent in psi
0.50 kg/cm2 = 7.11psi
0.55 kg/cm2 = 7.82psi
0.60 kg/cm2 = 8.53psi
0.65 kg/cm2 = 9.25psi
0.70 kg/cm2 = 9.96psi
0.75 kg/cm2 = 10.67psi
0.80 kg/cm2 = 11.38psi
0.85 kg/cm2 = 12.09psi
0.90 kg/cm2 = 12.80psi
0.95 kg/cm2 = 13.51psi
1.00 kg/cm2 = 14.22psi
1.05 kg/cm2 = 14.93psi
1.10 kg/cm2 = 15.65psi
1.15 kg/cm2 = 16.36psi
1.20 kg/cm2 = 17.07psi
1.25 kg/cm2 = 17.78psi
1.30 kg/cm2 = 18.49psi
1.35 kg/cm2 = 19.20psi
1.40 kg/cm2 = 19.91psi
1.45 kg/cm2 = 20.62psi
1.50 kg/cm2 = 21.33psi
1.55 kg/cm2 = 22.05psi
1.60 kg/cm2 = 22.76psi
1.65 kg/cm2 = 23.47psi
1.70 kg/cm2 = 24.18psi
1.75 kg/cm2 = 24.89psi
1.80 kg/cm2 = 25.60psi
1.85 kg/cm2 = 26.31psi
1.90 kg/cm2 = 27.02psi
1.95 kg/cm2 = 27.74psi
2.00 kg/cm2 = 28.45psi
Last edited by m0rphs; 20-05-2009 at 06:28 PM.
Most people manage to get away with 14psi ish or about 1bar, any higher and you tend to get fuel cut. I like you have an MBC and boost guage, on the basis that the guage is accurate I am running approx 15 psi. I have a decat exhaust and an up graded air filter. I havent experienced fuel cut at this level of boost, I experienced it once and turned the MBC down slightly.
The best way to test (so I was told) was a run in third gear, from 30mph ish until you hit the rev limit, or slightly before, try and keep an eye on the boost guage.
When dyno'd at standard boost with these additions I was getting 200bhp at the wheel, with the boost turned up from 7psi to 14/15psi you could expect 210 bhp at the wheel as long as all works fine that is..... in the real world 200bhp at the wheel in a pre face lift auto Leggie it translates to about 260bhp at the fly wheel.......
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
i`ve re-adjusted it now and get 0.93 most of the time but has peaked a 0.96.
0.95 kg/cm2 = 13.51psi
I may tweak a little tomorow to get to 1.00/14.22 and then just leave it!
1.00 kg/cm2 = 14.22psi
Next on the list was a filter, but i`ve seen the chrome pipe induction feed and realy like that.
What the best way to go, mushroom filer in the bay, or that chrome pipe that feeds from the bumper?
Thanks
Daz
Most people on here find the standard airbox with an uprated filter is good for quite a large power increase.
A good kit that forces air in through the front bumper should equal or better this, as long as the air is stable reaching the MAF.
hmmmm i saw a GB on here is that the filter most recomend?
i take it a mushroom filter in the bay using the standard cold air feed from the grill is a nono then?
Daz
Yesyes, I mean nono, erm, I mean correct!Originally Posted by m0rphs
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Better results to be had from the factory snorkel setup, yes.Originally Posted by m0rphs
Thanks for the heads up
Daz
a search around the forum will show you that there is dyno proven results showing that a pod filter can decrease power
however, it must be commented that we don't seem to have established whether it's the quality of what it's breathing (unlikely), or because it's proximity to the MAF causes read errors.
Got a slightly OT question here, has anyone tried one of the Mitsubishi K&N pod filters that RPW sells? Do they make a difference?