Replacing inner steering rack ends?

[wintertidenz]

Before anyone asks, yes I have used search

Went to get a WOF today (MOT for those of you in the UK) and I was told that my inner steering rack ends are shot - heaps of play in them, possibly ball joints too.
Unfortunately it is a WOF issue and I can't get one without them being replaced. I've found the parts for relatively cheap, but can't find how to replace them - any gurus here know how to, preferably with pretty little pictures? I've been told it is a difficult job but really don't have the cash to get the mechanic to do it ($200 all up for replacement, no wheel alignment though).

Thanks.

[bradc]

Got your text earlier Never done it myself before sorry

[wintertidenz]

Brad - want to try replacing them then? LOL!

When I come over in the weekend, I might have to get you to try and actuate my AYC too mechanic reckons the AYC pump is shot...?

[bradc]

Having the half cut will make it easy, we'll be able to see what is involved easily.

[Gly]

its a PITA!

have you bought the parts?

[wintertidenz]

Going to get the parts from Appco tomorrow.

[peter thomson]

I'm changing one tomorrow as well. Is it that much of a pain Carsten

[Gly]

it can be,

getting the locking washer loose and finding the right tool big enough to undo the inner rack, but still small enough to fit in the small space and turn.,

and then putting the new one back on is just as annoying,

not a really hard job as such, just a mildly annoying.
set a bit of time aside, its not as easy as it looks, 30min per side-ish at a normal working pace.


don't forget to take measurements of the complete assembled length (inner rack + tie rod end) so you can put the new one in and still have tracking close.

not all the rack ends/tie rod ends are exactly the same they vary from brand to brand,

so complete assembled measurement is very important

[peter thomson]

Thanks Carsten . Looks like I'll have to grind a spanner down to fit the gap

[peter thomson]

Did a test run on the breaker tonight and the rack end needs a 32mm spanner. Getting the tab washer fully knocked back allows the spanner to fit but it was very tight with the one I have.

[keithatport]

I thought you were ill?

[peter thomson]

I thought you were ill?

Painkillers go a long way - back on topic

[Subaru ETA]

i have the tool to do them..

[bradc]

Are you coming tomorrow then?

[Subaru ETA]

lol nope, working! next sasturday i probably could

[Gly]

just got home from fishing, workshop day next weekend if theres enough interest brad???

[bradc]

Yep sounds good

[Nick Mann]

I have done this job on my car and I ended up putting a 22 or 24 spanner on to the rack itself (The last 3 or 4 teeth aren't used, so a spanner on there is relatively safe.) and used a pipe wrench to undo the fitting. Make sure the pipe wrench is not on the ball joint though!!

This job is horrible because of the lack of access - nothing else.

[Scottie]

What are the chances of the rack being stuffed rather than just the ends. I have been told my rack is buggered and about $800AUD to fix.
My car feels like you are driving on tram tracks. Also, the inner front tyres are shot (suspecting excessive toe).
Did the replacement of rack ends solve the problem?

[Nick Mann]

Rack ends solved my problem, which was very similar to yours. I think the problem is that if both rack ends are worn, the testers can assume that it is the rack rather than the ends. For the cost of rack ends vs a rack, and the difficulty of the two jobs, definitely try the rack ends first.

Once the track rod end is off the tie-bar, remove the gaitor and then yank on the tie rod. You'll probably be able to feel the play in it.