OUCH
Ok, no matter then Q. I will work out a plan of attack over here for my own one to get finished!
1997 Mitsubishi RVR HSGR : 2.0 4G63T, 4 seats and the seating position from a truck
2009 Ford Mondeo : 2.2TDCi, 4 wheels, some plastics, some metal and some seats
Former owner of The Mongrel (RIP 2011) and The Rednum (RIP 2014)
i once read a post on an other mitsubishi forum (forgotten which one now. done a quick search but cant find it) that a company called auto acoustics would manufacture and fit a new stealth sub box to your car for free. but only if your car is not on their list. the only reason they would do it for free, is because they would use your car as a template for making more stealth boxes. the post also gave a name to contact for this service.
i was going to give them a call...but with work and the location of auto acoustics (West Sussex), i couldn't make it. plus i've lost the website with the contacts name.
but i must say, their stealth boxes are good. i had one in my MG ZR. it came fully carpeted, sound matting, and the cables installed. the only drawback with auto acoustics boxes, they can be on the expensive side. that's why i bought mine off ebay for half the price
edit:
forgot to add their website so you can have a look.
http://www.auto-acoustics.co.uk/index.asp
Last edited by oldgit9; 01-08-2009 at 04:47 PM.
thats interesting ay dude! they can have my cars anytime lol... better yet i have 2 bum cuts they can use,then you boys can have the boxes too ,lol
ive just built a box very very similar to this, one either side, i will upload photos of mine....
I've done a similar thing in mine....
Despite the cost of living its surprising how popular it remains! Feel free to swim in my fishbowl anytime!
looks alright pal
one comment though, should have recessed the sub into the box so you can open the boot floor flap easy
nice carpet job though
Battle of the Boxes? lol.. um is yours built into the sidewall of the legnum aswell or not?
nice builds guys. and hopefully one day, i might attempt one.
my main concern, is keeping the amp/s cool. how are you guys keeping them cool when they are under the main big flap??? do you have cooling fans or forced air ducts to cool them???
I find mine does not overheat at all. There is a lot of air in the spare wheel well and provided you dont pack stuck around the amp too much it should be ok. But then if you are running competition levels of amp and power then maybe you need more airflow, but for a single amp or even two amps for a Legnum, there should be plenty of airflow in there.
In fact, my main problem with the stereo install was the inline fuse holder in the engine bay getting too hot! I've found that the actual fuse holder has partially melted itself (dont worry its still ok, and in no danger of blowing my car up).
Is that from engine heat, Atik, or current draw!?
Engine heat... I have the wiring tucked away down the side of the engine bay but when I got the car back from the bodywork respray, the wiring was out of place and the fuse holder was right over the engine! It wasnt until a couple of weeks later that I found the fuse holder out of place.
heheheheeh my amp is totally indapendantly mounted under the sub in its own tray that is WELL vented in 4 areas of Free flowing air too,lol
You have no idea how much I wished I had done exactly that......Originally Posted by jodykirton
looks alright pal
one comment though, should have recessed the sub into the box so you can open the boot floor flap easy
nice carpet job though
How are the boxes fixed into place?
Do the boxes have 1 cu.ft (28 litres) volume as that seems to be a good size for a sealed twelve?
Just out of interest...what happens to these various designs in a collision?
they break?!?!
I was thinking more in terms of how likely are they to travel up the cabin into the passenger space?
very unlikey i would say, mine, (and i think VR4WGN's) are built very snug, it sits on the boot floor when the compartment is removed, and a small false floor installed.
Then once the box is made it slides down onto the false floor at a slight angle and then once past the plastic at the top by the window it naturally sits back and snugly.
Once there it doesnt move (ive had both of mine in since making them without additional fixings yet and drove the car had and havent moved at all).
When i wire the subs in properly (havent got an amp yet) then i will bolt it down through the sub box floor into the false floor ive made underneath it.
look at the outline of how the box sits in the car .
this should clarify the near impossibleness of the box to fly forward at all.
if it was to crunch it would be stopped by the Strutt Tower anyhow.
the box is also bolted to the floor and as per pictures it sits IN the sidewall wich acts as a preventative and Hooray also i have calculated my volume and have 24.8L so im not far off lol
In the event of a crash bolting it down is the only thing that will save the box from flying all over the place.
From a sound point of view the box positioning results in less output than the traditional method of firing it towards the boot lid; you lose the low frequency lift of around 6-10 db in the 20 - 40 hz range.
I am looking at designing a box to be secured to the strut brace itself but no funds for a while to sound deaden the rear and for said brace
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