What happened to the one on your old car John?Originally Posted by Nutter_John
What happened to the one on your old car John?Originally Posted by Nutter_John
1999 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Tommi Makinen Edition
Don't know what happened to mine but I assume Ben never kept it
the only other type V I know of is Big Pauls ( cashianvr4)
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Good point just locking the type v diff by welding the spider gears will be by far the cheapest and most effective way of stopping wheel slip, I want to put a SAYC in my car when i can afford it so when I do do that in the future some time i can dismantle my type v diff and bring it to Jap Racing Supplys and compare the insides to the evo plate LSD paks
i may have a non ayc diff somewhere, but i think its out of a v624 or a gdi will have a looky
NO More VR4 for me, well ive still got the 6G
Have you ever driven a car with a locked diff? Fine for the straight line and a good bit of oversteer, but the already ****e turning circle becomes outrageous. Totaly no use for the roadOriginally Posted by Adam.Findlay
yeah I know locky's are a asshole on the road thats why i made my point about getting the LSD's. haha alot of my mates have drift skylines with lock diffs. but i do think Researching the compatability of evo internals with the vr4 cast iron casing is worth wile.
All 4wd Legnums that don't have AYC, ie Type V VR-4's, ST-R's and Viento's all have the same rear diff.
Just ripp the ayc out,weld up the centre diff,put a diamnte diff in the back and go rwd its so much f
could try this
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-245851109.htm
looks exact same as the type v diff, dont know about the ratios though
Ratio should be 3.3ish, not 3.9
Originally Posted by bradc
So the rear diff ratio is 3.307? would be nice if it was........
Also, ive now been to guildford and had a proper look at the car. Diagnosis is rear diff. Drives like a slipping clutch, but pulls away from the handbrake. But then coasting with engine off you can hear and feel the rear making some bad noises.
So will you be fitting a borrowed spare (i.e. test) rear diff to confirm this and that the rest of the drivetrain is ok?
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Something like that.... worst case scenario il need to get my hands on a propshaft
vr-4/evo 4 3.3125 53/16
evo 5-9 3.307692308 43/13
So yeah, 3.3ish if you are looking for a replacement that isn't out of a VR-4 or EVO 4-9. I don't know what the X's are, but they are most likely 3.307
I was looking at a MK2 GTO, but as ive been reliably informed, the uk and JDM ones share the same rear diff. So, it means that they are only the USDM option (dodge Stealth).
Now as these came with lsd's and not much else, and Ben has not managed to break one yet, it seemed the logical progression (if of course i can get one cheaply enough) to see if they can be mounted to a vr4 subframe.
Aparently the US boys want the JDM ratio's, so there is maybe a market to get one.
Is that slight difference in ratio's acceptable? I know a lot of people do run the later diff's.
I think there was a post not so long ago where the effect of the ratio difference was notably less than the effect caused by having a few millimetres tread difference between the tyres.Originally Posted by Gowf
Yep, I did the maths, the difference at about 1250rpm in 5th would have the front wheels turning at 47.476kmh and the rear wheels turning at 47.545kmh.
so shave some off the rear tyres then yes?
Not really important. The rear tyres to match a front size of 255/40/17 would need to be 255/39.8/17, or change in diameter (or height if you will) from 635.80mm to 634.78mm, about 1mm in total diameter, or shave 0.5mm from the tyre tread itself.
Over the life of a set of tyres you will get more uneven wear than that anyway!
Yeah i know, i was only taking the piss. Its good news though, all i now need to do is find one!