Can someone tell me what I need to bleed the brakes. I know how to but dont know what I need.
Thank in advance.
Can someone tell me what I need to bleed the brakes. I know how to but dont know what I need.
Thank in advance.
The mighty Leedsnum has gone but the Airtrek mods will soon fill this space
How To:Contact Committee or Moderators.
http://www.videojug.com/search?keywords=bleeding+brakes
May give you an idea whats involved Andy!
Mike
Still here somewhere........
If you've never carried out the bleeding of brakes before, I strongly suggest you dont attempt it at all. Get advice from someone who has done it before and learn from them.
I know Millar was trying to be helpful, but the video suggests you use dot 3 brake fluid, when its been superceeded more than twice.
Also a blow torch and big hammer ?. In all my years of fiddling around cars of all types, I've never had to use either of those suggested tools.
Brakes are not something you experiment with, honest.
old age and treachery will outdo youth and skill anyday
Heat is dodgy on calipers but sometimes is essential ( i served my time on aircooled VW's).
Bleeding the brakes is very simple, you just have to do it in the correct sequence. Its also easier if you do it with an assistant. You can of course spend money on fancy equipment, but at the end of the day, the old manual pump method works just as well.
So all you will need is a spanner (either 10mm or 8mm i cant recall off the top of my head) and a bit of clear piping that fits snuggly onto the nipple, and of course an assistant.
Start at the corner furthest away from the ABS unit, open the nipple and get the assistant to pump. When you see no more air, get them to hold the pedal down, then close the nipple. repeat for the other 3 wheels in sequence closer to the abs unit.
Some times however this will not get all the air out, but if you can identify which line it is in, you can then pump the pedal up til its solid holding on the pressure, then slacken the nipple and when the pedal reaches the floor close it. Repeat this again a few times until the pedal gets better.
Obviously with this method you need constant comunication with your assistant
Did this at the weekend, jsut as Gowf says, I don't like to do it any other way. The one point to remember is to keep an eye on the resevioir, don't let it get anywhere near empty!
VR-4 #1 : Ernie, Pyreness Black, 98 Legnum Type-S, Leather, Moonroof & Stainless Sills, Fujitsubo cat back, Apexi RSM - Sold under duress
VR-4 #2 : Wallie, Finesse Green, 96 Legnum Type-S, Erebuni CF bonnet, Profec E-01 & EMB, TRE fuel pump, RPW Downpipes, De-Cat, Fujitsubo Super Legalis R, LC-1, NGK Iridium Plugs, SARD Radiator, Greddy Hard Rad Pipe, ATF Cooler, FMIC, Forge Recirc BOV, KAD 6 Pot 330x28 Brakes, HEL Braided Lines, 17"X8.0 Rota Torques with Wintrac Xtremes, Fully Synth Oils, Ultimate 102RON Fuel, Stainless Sills - Sold after 4 great years
Cheers guys for the advice but as kiteman has said there not to be messed about with if you dont know what your doing. After all the wife drives the car most of the time with the kids in it.
Pads & discs I have no probs with but I'm not sure about the bleeding so think I'll get a garage to do it.
We could fit in a flush here Andy as that won't take that long to do
Ask a simple question, never receive an answer these days
That would be great if you could Peter.
I did'nt want to ask as I know you have a lot on.
We can sort something out for the weekend Andy
Thanks Peter.
Give me a shout when you know whens best for you.
Flush? Change the fluid?
Yes best to change the fluid in there with some super blue and make sure all the hoses are ok as well
Ok best place to get super blue?
I usually buy mine from Don
or EuroParts stock Super Blue, handy if youve got one local to you
Our nearest one is 120miles away Mike
mail order it from amsoil or opie on here and use you discount as a member. should turn up before the weekend.
Bye for Now!
Got the breaks sorted out today Thanks to Peter again dont know what I'd do without his help
Had a few probs with the front Pads.
The driver side ones were nearly done & they were only fitted to the car in May just after Japfest & the were wearing at an angle.
The passenger side one was the same but I had a sticky slide pin that ment the outside pad was'nt even making contact with the disk.
Some pads that Peter had put in & super blue fluid & all is good again.
So she stops again but just over 5 months on standard pads Wow.
Upgrade will be coming in the new year just to decide what I'm going to go for.
Guys, i have this afternoon changed my rear discs and pads. Also i have swapped the rear brake lines over to braided hoses. Which corner should i bleed first? ie is there a sequence or does it matter? Will bleeding the rear brakes upset the fronts? ie should i bleed them all?
My first time so forgive me if its an obvious answer.
Cheers
Mike
Damn newbies asking obvious questions!
Actually, I dont know and the information would also be helpful to me
1997 Mitsubishi RVR HSGR : 2.0 4G63T, 4 seats and the seating position from a truck
2009 Ford Mondeo : 2.2TDCi, 4 wheels, some plastics, some metal and some seats
Former owner of The Mongrel (RIP 2011) and The Rednum (RIP 2014)
Start with the back passenger wheel then the drivers side back then front passenger side & finish on the driver front.
And bleed them all Mike.