Engine oil

[Ryan]

The simple facts are:

1. VR-4 has not one but two turbos

2. Turbos get VERY hot

3. Synthetic oil handles heat much better than mineral oil

[wintertidenz]

It's because the synthetic oils stand up better to the temperatures from the turbo.

A little bit of searching on CVR4 yielded this: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...=synthetic+oil

It is very easy to research these kind of things first instead of always asking the same questions and making yourself look like an idiot in front of others.

[vr4-fan]

The simple facts are:

1. VR-4 has not one but two turbos

2. Turbos get VERY hot

3. Synthetic oil handles heat much better than mineral oil

TRANKS VERY MUCH RYAN , now i understand , tomorrow going to change this **** mineral oil , for fully sintetic , I can do the change witout any problem?? I PUT THE MINERAL because the tappest sound , and now disaper , with this oil , befaouse I used 10w 40 , and now 15 w 40 adn bardhal aditive , and the noise quiet ,

[wintertidenz]

Run some engine flush additive through first before you drain the oil.

The tapping noise is a common thing with Mitsis - I run 5w30 and still get it occasionally, however the sound goes away quickly. You don't need to use additives to get rid of the sound.

Read the previous posts in this thread for oil to be used.

[vr4-fan]

Run some engine flush additive through first before you drain the oil.

The tapping noise is a common thing with Mitsis - I run 5w30 and still get it occasionally, however the sound goes away quickly. You don't need to use additives to get rid of the sound.

Read the previous posts in this thread for oil to be used.

hey winter thank you very much dude , I need this help because I used the mineral for the tappets , I going to used fully sintetic mobil 1 10w 40 , and the aditive for the noise , thansk , I hope the turbos dont have demage

[chris g]

Here comes the science bit....

It's the top quality synthetic oil, the engine needs the best

Do what you want but engine will not be as well protected

[Gowf]

Just to add my little bit to this, and to try and get it back onto some form of sensible path;

Why is the low viscosity oil so important for the 6A13TT?

Im in the dark about this, as ive always used thicker oils when pushing the engines that little bit harder. Both the Skyline and the 205 ran 10W60 millers fully synthetic. Now, i know this is not just a 'you've got a turbo so you must do this' as i know a lot of the people who compete seriously in turbo cars use similar viscosity.

Now is is that the TD03's need such a thin oil/ or is it a tappit issue?

I've always been confused by this and would like someone to put me in the know, as at the moment im running a millers 10w40 and yeah ok, its a bit noisey on start up (it is on amsoil aswell) but other than that its fine, and infact it holds better oil pressure (as you would expect) and i can also get a gallon for under £30.

[bradc]

with a 40 weight oil you will of course get a higher oil pressure than a 30 weight oil. Remember though that higher pressure (and in turn viscosity) will equal less flow!

Mitsi themselves recommend a 30 weight oil for the car, so they are basically saying that at operating temperatures, they are happy with the amount of pressure and flow that a 30 weight oil.

The 0, 5 or 10 at the start is obviously only for cold temperatures and naturally you want that number to be as low as possible so that the oil flows better at cold temperatures.

[Gowf]

Yeah Brad i agree, but they recomend oil viscosities for normal use.

So in the same vein are you then saying that for the more extreme usage you are limiting the flow if you use a heavier weight oil than manufactures state? Or is it that the higher temps then equal that out?

[Gowf]

oh, and just as a side note, using 10 w60 in the pug was the only way i ever got any decent oil pressure.

[bradc]

The higher temps with a 40 weight oil would probably even things out. Have you read this? http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

[Gowf]

thats very interesting brad, certainly makes things clearer. good man for posting it

[ANTHONY]

is vr4-fan a real person or is it Wodjno p!ssing about

[vr4-fan]

is vr4-fan a real person or is it Wodjno p!ssing about

so... antony???? you want to know if I am a real person mmg

[Daft Lad Picko]

So now everybody (I think) appreciates the obvious advantage of fully synthetic over semi or mineral i.e. less degradation, can I add my two-penneth?

With thinner fully synthetic oils you need to ensure your gaskets and seals are in good fettle. A thin fully synthetic oil will get where air can't when under pressure, usually crankshaft end seals. If you find yours leaks, Wynns do a great additive that effectively rejuvinates your rubber seals and can stop leaks. If this doesn't work, change the seal. DO NOT put thicker oil in as a quick fix!!

Can anybody give me a full list of oil viscosities and capacities for the following:

Engine (with filter change)
Auto transmission
AYC diff
Anything else that takes oil that need regular checking and changing

I'm planning on selling one of my kids on flea-bay to fund a FULL Amsoilation of my post face lift auto.

[elnevio]

Using the Dear John feature (aka Search!), all of that info is available already on the site!

However, this post may prove useful: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...007#post424007

[chris g]

So despite ALL this, you are going to use fully synthetic for the engine AND put in additives for the noise...?

[ANTHONY]

Using the Dear John feature (aka Search!)

i like that

[elnevio]

i like that

Thought you might...

[vr4-fan]

for all your , wich oil its better , castrol syntetic , or motul 4100 turbolight syntetic too ???