So a sign that the wheel is gonna pop off and drop backwards like this is heavy steering? On my own car im noticing the steering is getting quite heavy now.Originally Posted by Eurospec
How does a layman check?
Mike
So a sign that the wheel is gonna pop off and drop backwards like this is heavy steering? On my own car im noticing the steering is getting quite heavy now.Originally Posted by Eurospec
How does a layman check?
Mike
Still here somewhere........
YEs, heavy steering and creaking are the two symptoms you seem to get first.
You dont always get both.
Cheers,
Ben.
hmmm no creaking for me, just heavy ass steering. Is it the curved or straight arm i replace? im getting confused searching through all the different threads on this one.
Normally its the straight ones.
When its the curved ones, ive only ever heard them banging.
Cheers,
Ben.
Can you describe the creaking a bit more?Originally Posted by Eurospec
so if the lower arms have already been replaced on a recall by Mitzi, are these also prone to failure?
"Finishing second means you are the first person to lose"................ (Gilles Villeneuve)
Not as prone, AFAIK. But even if they have been done, people should be vigilant as to the symptoms, IMO.Originally Posted by Anthony
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Mine have been done in the recall back in Japan. Whats worrying is my car is only approaching 60k miles.
Im paranoid now and the only way to satisfy my mind is to change the arms.
Mike
Surely the heavy steering is generated by the ball joint drying up? Therefore rather than immediately replace, wouldn't it be better to remove the arm and check the ball joint for free movement??
'97 EVO 4 GSR
I had the creaking on mine but not heavy steering. I changed them both to be on the safe side.
Yes ... but I think it's fair to say your suspension will have taken more abuse than most Legnums with 60k on the clockOriginally Posted by miller
1999 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Tommi Makinen Edition
Not sure whom, a member posted a .WMV video on here. It was identical to how mine sounded.Originally Posted by sightless
linky ;
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=tardis
that doesnt sound nice
This is how I got rid of my creaking which was horrendous, the RAC couldn`t find it and neither could a Dealer.
Take the front wheels off, give the bottom ball joint behind the disc backing plate a really good spray all over with good old WD40, turn the steering from side to side a few times, wheels back on and off you go.
These ball joints are prone to water getting in, done mine at the beginning of september, not a dicky bird since.
Got to be worth a shot, for the price of a can of WD
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It would be worth it, if only it were an annoying sound and nothing more.
Unfortunately, it seems to be a precursor to a catastrophic failure of the ball joint.
Although the failures reported seem to be at low speeds (thereby not harming anyone physically), the financial impact looks painful.
I'm not saying this to put down your suggestion, at all. I would dread to think that either yourself or someone that reads your post think they've cured the problem with a quick spray of what is not even an oil, really.
A warning sound is always a good thing to leave in place as a reminder, too !
Just what i was thinking that......id hate to see the receipt for a can of WD40 sat beside a £1000 invoice for repairs and body work.
Not to mention if it was you that bucked the trend of it happening at low speeds
Mike
I know where you`re coming from guys, being a qualified Mechanical Engineer for the last 35 yrs, I did have the sense to check them out mechanically and determine that they were safe before using the WD40 to "Eliminate the squeaks and moans", And I would assume that anyone reading my previous posting would have already satisfied themselves that the joints were mechanically sound.
I am in no way advocating using one thing to hide another.
Fair shout. Intended more to point the issue out for others. As a mechanical engineer, I would expect that you'd be able to determine it was fine on your car. The same can't necessarily be assumed for those of us without your experience, though.
Yes that`s fair enough, I think this may have come across wrong, I`m not trying to sound clever, I just rightly or wrongly assumed that the mechanics of the issue would already have been checked and eliminated by someone.
I was on holiday when mine started, so I called the RAC out, he couldn`t find anything mchanically wrong and nor could I, but I still wasn`t happy, so I took it to a dealer (Ford), no Mitsi dealer for 50 odd miles, they could not find anything, checked on this site, and got info on lower arm failures, but knowing they were mechanically sound, out come the tried and trusted WD, as I said, worked for me, but yes anyone reading this thread, please please MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT MECHANICALLY AT FAULT!!!
Originally Posted by dannyh
What is a way to determine if they are mechanically at fault?