Lower arm failure... another one

[dannyh]

Split the joint from the hub, and check for any slackness in the joint or end float (up and down movement) if the joint does not feel smooth or there is any slack or knocking REPLACE THE JOINT, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR, if there is any slack in th joint it means that the top of the cradle (The joint housing) is wearing away on the insde, the cap will be thinner and could fail at any time letting the rod pop out of the top, losing all connection with the bottom of the hub

[miller]

how hard/easy are the lower straight arms to replace? Is there a guide anywhere? i cant seem to find on in resources.

[psbarham]

how hard/easy are the lower straight arms to replace? Is there a guide anywhere? i cant seem to find on in resources.

remove wheel
undo and remove bottom shock bolt
undo and remove the inner pivot bolt
undo and remove bottom ball joint (you'll need a ball joint splitter for this)
remove arm.
refitting is the reverse of above, apart from one bit, the bottom shock bolt and the inner pivot bolt need to be done up with the suspension in its natural position, but don't worry if you don't have a lift of a pit, this can be done easily by jacking the car up a bit higher and then pacing an axle stand under the bottom arm and then lower the jack until all the weight is on the stand, then do up the bolts as per usual.

[scott.mohekey]

apart from one bit, the bottom shock bolt and the inner pivot bolt need to be done up with the suspension in its natural position, but don't worry if you don't have a lift of a pit, this can be done easily by jacking the car up a bit higher and then pacing an axle stand under the bottom arm and then lower the jack until all the weight is on the stand, then do up the bolts as per usual.

I bet this is what I've done wrong when putting my new lower arms in. Something to check tonight!

[Subaru ETA]

you dont HAVE to have a ball joint splitter to get the ball joint out. you just need to belt where the jount goes through the knuckle with a hammer

[fuel]

way easier with a splitter though, they are like $20 at most and are totally worth it if you are popping joints off often. Plus I'm such a lousy aim with the hammer I'ld end up wacking the CV joint or missing totally.

[Subaru ETA]

lol yeah i guess.. im a mechanic so i do it the rough way lol. plus the spliters usually rip the boot and if you need to reuse it that aint so good

[psbarham]

lol yeah i guess.. im a mechanic so i do it the rough way lol. plus the spliters usually rip the boot and if you need to reuse it that aint so good

so am i, thats why i have a scissor type splitter, never split a boot yet /crosses fingers

[Subaru ETA]

so am i, thats why i have a scissor type splitter, never split a boot yet /crosses fingers

interesting...never seen one like that...the only ones we can get here are the fork ones! i know for a fact sanp on dont do a 'scissor' type one - what brand is yours?

[psbarham]

interesting...never seen one like that...the only ones we can get here are the fork ones! i know for a fact sanp on dont do a 'scissor' type one - what brand is yours?

sykes pacavant, they are very common over here.

LIKE THIS (except this looks cheap and nasty)

there is loads on fleabay

[Subaru ETA]

cheers ill keep an eye out

[scott.mohekey]

I've got one of them. I bought it from super cheap auto for around $10 I think. VERY handy.

[Subaru ETA]

lol well maybe i should stop buying all my tools from snap on and sulco then!

[scott.mohekey]

Lol, I buy from whoever has the tool I need. I've bought a few from sulco, cheap uncomplicated things from super cheap or repco, a bunch of powerbuilt stuff because I can't afford snap on etc.