Un Healthy Engine..

[VR4WGN]

hey guys well i got that vr4 that was standing for 18 months.
watch this Vid then read below please

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaQRq1IwGb8


i cleaned the plugs up,cylinder 2 and 5 had oil down the spark chambers
put some new fuel in it, and jump started it with 2 sets of leads..

fired 1st time ..yay

but after warming it up i then attempted acelerating it,and as you can see by the video its not healthy..

Blows Black Smoke out but not alot at all,had no exhaust so is loud at the mo(stolen Recovered)

can hear turbos spooling up and down with the acceleration too

what could i do to get it running smoothly?
1-iv thort of drsining oil as level looks high
2-Turbo's Siezed or stiff
3-Dead Plugs
4-Sticky TPS Switch
5-blocked Fuel Line

i would like to get the engine etc runnign smoothly before i decidewhat to do with the car so please any help will be greatly apreciated guys
i wont be able to spend time on it for a while as my weekends are chokka but evry night after work i can do a little..

[Goku]

It has none of the exhaust on it at all ?

What about the sensor that goes into the exhaust, wouldn't not having that connected make it run lumpy and screw with the idle ?

[VR4WGN]

hmmm see now thats why this club is great as you guys are like new eyes,piking things up i miss,it may still be there but there is no flange from the back of the downpipes where it bolts upto CAT,stolen obviously,um form memory i dont think itll affect it much

[scott.mohekey]

I had a rolling chassis which did the same. Also, my daily vr4 had the same turbo whine when I bought it, it had mineral oil in it. Changing to synthetic made a huge difference. The smoke is probably due to some sensor missing, or a bit of oil build up.

[scott.mohekey]

It has none of the exhaust on it at all ?

What about the sensor that goes into the exhaust, wouldn't not having that connected make it run lumpy and screw with the idle ?

Only in closed loop mode, once its warmed up fully. Before then, the ECU largely ignores the O2 sensor.

[Turbo_Steve]

If it's running rough, but not using oil, you need to check:

Plugs,
Leads,
CoilPacks,
Plug-wells may need drying out (either full of oil or moisture)
The check the IFS.

As it sounds like it only starts to misbehave once it's warmed up, I'd look at all this first.

If that doesn't fix it, start looking at injectors and the wiring.

[KHK]

isn't it not logical for a car sitting in garage for long time and becomes unhealthy?

i m inclined to think this might be typical for vr4
i have 2 vr4 sitting in garage for long time : one over a yr and another one over 2 yrs

both have similar problems to VR4WGN

i poured some cleaner to petrol tanks and let it idle on and off several times for 15 minutes or bit more, drive it for a while if the car allows me; change engine oil and filter

the car that sat for a yr now recovers 80%
the other one no improvement, and with oils inside cylinder, black and white smoke, possibly need to open the engine to do a fix

[Turbo_Steve]

Not really. All engines need special care when they haven't been run for a while, as moisure builds up inside the bores and encourages corrosion, filters can degrade / rot, and rubber pipes stiffen up as they aren't being stretched regularly. Fuel pressure drains out of the fuel rails, allowing moisture and air to build up: again corrosion.

If an engine has been stood for a significant period, it should not simply be cranked and fired.

Ideally the oil should be drained and replaced before anything else, as should the oil and fuel filters, and all fuel should be drained and replaced with fresh (fuel degrades very quickly!).

It can be a good idea to flush and replace the coolant at this time too, dependant on how long it's been stood.

Dependant on the engine, there are then two options.
If possible, the oil pump can be turned by hand to ensure it's free and to build up some lubrication. Ideally it can then be spun with a drill or similar to build some oil pressure.

However there aren't manage engines allowing you to do this, so it's best to ensure you've just changed the oil, and then turn the engine once, slowly, by hand to ensure there are no obstructions in the bores (in my case a mouse had built a nest in the inlet manifold! turning it by hand allowed me to hear debris moving in the head) and then the ignition and fuel systems should be disabled and the engine cranked on the starter to build up plenty of oil pressure. Hopefully the oil that you've put in is nice and warm, so it flows easily.

Then it can be started properly, and restarted until it idles. On an ECU based car, it will generally idle fairly high at startup to build oil pressure etc, and then settle down. Allowing it to settle completely, warming everything through (including the cat, lamda, backbox etc) is a good idea. Then you can start revving it and looking for any other issues.

This isn't neccesarily the best way of restarting an engine that's been stood, but it's straight from the "tractor restorers handbook", field restarting diesel lumps that haven't been turned for tens of years and are literally covered in rust, without bending any rods or holing any pistons or socring the crank bearings.

[bradc]

I would change the MAF and install an exhaust on it and see what happens.

[VR4WGN]

thanx heaps all of you for your input,ill rip the vr4 system off and install it on it when it comes back form vinning as im putting the Fuji on it anyhow..,um Dave love the mouse theory lol,didnt think it was possible lol...

i put new fuel,cleaned plugs..
ill try new maf and then if nothing i got a good set of them red leads and coilpacks ill flick onto it maby and then try,but first do the exhaust and maf i think..

18 months is a long time to stand lol

[Subaru ETA]

unplug the maf while its running and see what it does. could be a bung maf. if you unplug it and it runs better, that is probably the problem

[VR4WGN]

now that you mention that its a good idea actually,thanx heaps for the help man.. cant wait for a free weekend tha ti candevote to it ey....

[White Lightning]

From what you are saying, it sounds like the car has downpipes fitted but no cat or system after the cat. If that is the case, I had one of mine running like that recently and it idled absolutely fine just loud! So, I would say fitting an exhaust makes sense just to rule it out as a problem but I wouldn't hold your breath that it will fix it.

[VR4WGN]

yea i know iv run heaps without systems and wow they actually sound awsum really, its on the back burners now as i got the other VR4 back from VTNZ today,alot of work to be done to that so yea

[Turbo_Steve]

Exhaust won't make any difference post-turbos: they provide all the back pressure it needs to run.

FWIW My money is on coilpacks and leads.

[VR4WGN]

hmm will be interesting to see if your rite,lol,tat means removing the plenium again lol.grrrrrrr

[White Lightning]

yea i know iv run heaps without systems and wow they actually sound awsum really

... sound like a V8 don't they

[Subaru ETA]

hmm will be interesting to see if your rite,lol,tat means removing the plenium again lol.grrrrrrr

i would try the maf first. leads and coil packs wouldnt make it idle as **** as it is

[VR4WGN]

... sound like a V8 don't they

yea man ,pretty nice really... loved riving mine without it on ey..,its not even that loud either...

[Turbo_Steve]

Simple MAF test (aside from unplugging it).

Start the car. Undo the hose from the throttle body and pull it off. If the car doesn't stall, the MAF isn't working

Watching the video with sound (didn't have any before today) I agree with Subaru ETA, the MAF isn't reading properly.