New dyno results

[dinger1983]

ok so big thanks to the wife for the dyno run as my birthday presant

ok so after doing the intercooler ,plugs atf,and ebc

went for a nother dyno run at hypertech and thats were the fun ended lolok so iv lost some ponnys iv went from 321bhp at .9bar of boost to 312bhp at .7bar realy couldnt get the boost any higher cos of boost spiking up to 1.2 /1.3 bar at about 3000rpm which was pulling back timing and messing up alot

then had a few gremilins in the trip when the car was climbing the gears in trip bit strange but is fine now

but been told 3 options run low boost safe option cheap option is a fuel cut defender expensive is ecu and remap (dont have the £££ for that )

will post the graph when i get back home

[aboo]

Not so good mate.

[AlanDITD]

thats quiet good still mate, i wouldnt worry about that tbh, the weather could have given that difference on a boosted car, let alone the fact you were running .2 of a bar less.

All good i would say!

[Nutter_John]

ok so big thanks to the wife for the dyno run as my birthday presant

ok so after doing the intercooler ,plugs atf,and ebc

went for a nother dyno run at hypertech and thats were the fun ended lolok so iv lost some ponnys iv went from 321bhp at .9bar of boost to 312bhp at .7bar realy couldnt get the boost any higher cos of boost spiking up to 1.2 /1.3 bar at about 3000rpm which was pulling back timing and messing up alot

then had a few gremilins in the trip when the car was climbing the gears in trip bit strange but is fine now

but been told 3 options run low boost safe option cheap option is a fuel cut defender expensive is ecu and remap (dont have the £££ for that )

will post the graph when i get back home

Dinger a few points

1) 321bhp @0.9 without fueling trims is big power , are those figures correct ( whats the ATW)
2) Do not fit a fuel cut defender or I reserve the right to take the pish out of you when you blow your engine up
3) Your boost controller is not doing it's job at all , you should not be spiking anywhere near that much , if you can not get it stable get someone else to set it up , the dyno guy should have been able to do it
4) if the car is pulling timing @ 3000rpm then you are knocking like a bitch this is not good .

Something is not right with your car , you are missing something but I don't know what it is , I would suggest you spend some time tripple checking every part of the boost circuit and make sure you have the lines in the correct way ( yes it does matter on a 3 port solenoid ) , then start progressive runs upping the boost control , until you start to spike , trim it back until you can do stable 3rd gear full pulls

[aboo]

Have to agree with piont 3 of Johns.

Hypertech have some good rep but after the visit we had with them in December I lost all faith in them with our cars anyway.

I found with them that they just want to give you a power run & some graphs but no help with set up.

Like with my car it was running a steady 8psi but they never suggested that I could turn it up or even do it them self to see if it made any diffrence.

With it being my 1st experience with dyno runs I knew no diffrence till it was brought up on the other thread on here.

If a member on here can notice this I'm sure someone that is doing it everyday should know this.

[dinger1983]

we were having a play around with the boost controller setting it up untill the car started moving up the gears in trip so that ended the session but did get a few runs
the boost pipes are all new he did suggest shortting them as much as i can and also checking that my actuators are working correctly
the atw power was 237bhp

as for knock he never said any thing about it

[Nutter_John]

237 bhp atw for a car with no fueling mods is very good , what afr's were you pulling on the Dyno as you may have an issue like TAR did where by it was running lean on full chat

If the timming is being pulled then you are knocking , did he have a set of det cans or a knocklink

[Davezj]

i make it
335bhp (ish) as it is an auto

if it was a manual it would be about 311bhp (ish) which ties in with the figure the dyno guys have given you.

it looks like the dyno guys have not given you anything for the auto box only the 24% for the 4wd system. so even better.

[dinger1983]

no i was getting 299bhp atf and 221atw then i was adding the 7% thatben from eurospec told me to do

[dinger1983]

these are the results from my last dyno in dec before the bits went on all had on here was a ralliart pannel filter 3"ss ehaust and decat and mbc

[dinger1983]

i know its a pic but ill scan it when i get a chance

[Nutter_John]

You don't do the 7% on the ATW as that is the true value

Do you have the AFR's ?

[dinger1983]

ok never new that

and no i dont have an afr

[AlanDITD]

whats going on at 4000rpm? Or is that the torque convertor doing somthing odd?

[dinger1983]

at 4000 i was getting a big boost spike up to 1.2 from .7 bar the big dip is the fuel/boost cut then the cars fine and climbs again but the guy said because of that i aint getting any were near the power it should be showing

[Davezj]

no i was getting 299bhp atf and 221atw then i was adding the 7% thatben from eurospec told me to do

that is not quite what you said in the post earlier which is why i questioned the result "atw power was 237bhp"

221 atw does roughly equate to 312 atf.

just thought you were doing yourself out of those extra few bragging rights.

[dinger1983]

na i messed up when ben said i needed to add 7% i thought he ment to both figure my mistake

[Turbo_Steve]

That's a horribly messy print out! Maybe it's cos it's a photo not a scan, but it's difficult to see which trace is which.


Something doesn't add up at all, here. 1.2Bar is a pretty epic boost spike if your target boost is 0.7!!!

Just to be clear, you have the EBC solenoid connected between the Thottle elbow (pipe with red tip) to a Tee piece going to each actuator?

That must be horrid to drive, spiking like that: it's really not very good for it.



In your position, I think I'd do a "Ghetto diagnostic boost test" setup.

Buy a length of silicone hose, and a Tee piece (hell, a plastic one for £2 from an aquarium shop will do, as will some cheap clear plastic hose as it's only temporary. Just keep it off the exhaust!) And jury rig your own plumbing:

Connect both actuators to the Tee piece, and then the other side back to the elbow. That's right: No boost control at all.

Then drive the car. It shouldn't make more than 6psi, and should spool in a very 'relaxed' fashion. If it spikes in this setup, you have an actuator problem.


Then get your MBC back out. Plumb it between the Tee Piece and the elbow, and wind it right in..or out...which ever way yours works.
Drive the car and have a passenger watch the boost gauge like a hawk. It should ascend to approximately the same pressure it did before.

Now wind it out a few turns. The boost gauge should, again, rise smoothly to the new pressure with no spiking. If it spikes at this point, remove the MBC and come back to us (ideally with a picture of your MBC).

I'd suggest that we get your car WORKING first, and then concentrate on getting your EBC setup right. If the car isn't behaving mechanically, then all the EBC settings in the world won't help.

There is no reason your MBC should struggle to control small turbos like these.

[dinger1983]

ok with the boost control its very sensitive when i had the mbc on it was only about 1or 2 mm i could move the knob between stock and a full bar of boost

and even now with the ebc my low boost setting is .55 with no spike at all but wont go much above .5bar the high is set at .6bar which make it about .7 bar on the gauge and then i get the spike

its a soft fuel cut like a stutter in the car but the car wont do it above the 4000rpm

[Turbo_Steve]

You either have a problem with a pipe, or one of your wastegate actuators is sticking.