sorry not sure what the location pin is for or where it is fitted.Originally Posted by The Vee
Bye for Now!
right i see what you mean, great picture says everything that need to be said.
Obviously, the wire would be thicker, but I exhausted the size limits of MS Paint's brushes
Location pin would be fixed to the arm that would pass through a metal bracket/loop fixed in a similar position to the wire diagram in turn located by the pin nut shown. This would be engaged to hopefully stop the wheel splaying out if the pin snapped. But as I say, the bracket i think would be flawed by the amount of movement need for steering as it would fowl the side of the arm and probably also get in the way of the curved arm fixing. I need to try a photoshop job!
the wire loop would have to be big enough to allow the full motion of turn for the hub though.so it would be a suck it see type thing.
we could workit out by using a cable tie round there and tighten it up test movement tighten it up a bit more, test movement, tce then cut cable tie off and measure it and that should give a good start point for making a prototype of the right size.
i think i get it but a pic would confirm it.
just seen the time 1.40am
work in the morning time for bed.
Yeah I'll try tomorrow - off for some ZZZZs soon!
Does this make any sense?
on the other hand if wire were to foul movement steering etc.the suggestion of the fork type clamp mentioned earlier would not foul movement due to it location.trial and error i suppose!!
sorry just seen picture .whats the blue piece?
The blue piece is a bracket fitted to the lower arm which extends into to catch loop and has the pim coming down from it locating in a hole in bottom of loop. The hole being big enough to allow movement.
so if ball joint splits the blue and pink pieces hold it together?
not putting your design down or anything but i think this design is gona cause major movement issues.the last design with the wire was less restrictive i think
Looks like I may have sparked an Engineering idea frenzy here ... great thread chaps
1999 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Tommi Makinen Edition
Correct, if you read further back I have already stated just that. But that was one of my initial thoughts on how to prevent it all falling apart. Trouble is, it is just that, stopping it falling apart after the joint has broken. I would still rather come up with something to stop it happening in the first place.
I'm still convinced there must be a different set up somewhere to swap over. I've looked at USDM galants, evos, differebt hubs etc etc. All have their merits but then fall down in one area or another.
I have felt very strongly about this issue for some time now (lots of earlier threads) and have since discovered that there was even a recall on the 7G galant for similar issues.
Shame we can't get every galant owner to get together and lobby Mitsi for an alternative, but alas I feel the cars are too old now.
Last edited by The Vee; 18-03-2010 at 11:37 AM.
ok .i dont know about this one but anyway ,what about redesigning arm so the outer end curves up a bit to follow the shape of the ball just enough to stop it popping but not so much to prevent movement?
just an idea not to up on how much work involved with this one!!
Good to see you still thinking about this. I bet, like me, you went to bed thinking of it, hoping an answer might be there by morning!
Think I can see your thoughts on the last one, but yes costs of a redesign I think would be prohibitive. My thoughts are still to find existing components or possibly some kind of "catch" device as we've discussed earlier. Want I want to avoid if possible is major surgery, such as inner wings, because I don't really think it'd be worth it
Guy at work put me on to these people who can anything to do with wire rope and the likes
http://www.mainco.co.uk/wire_rope_info.htm
so stuff is available to do this.
just thought i would ask, there are 2 different failure method for the ball joint, and they are as follows:-
1. the entire ball gets forced out of the socket and the lower arm falls away.
2.the tapered shaft of the ball joint snaps off the top of the ball leaving the ball in the lower arm and the lower arm would all away.
what is the split of failkure types, i don't remember seeing any more than one of the type 2 failure mentioned (but i could be wrong).
this leads me to my next question, do you want to protect against a type 2 failure?
If no then the solution to the catch device is very straight forwand and will not compromise hub/steering movement. see post 16 for description.
i will try and do a drawing of it.
sorry it is not a .jpg
the drawing is terrible but it is only to the basic idea. i can do full 3d cad drawings of it but then you would not be able to open it. unless you had the free right hemesphere software you can down load to view that sort of stuff.
Last edited by Davezj; 18-03-2010 at 02:42 PM.
Although this would never be a device for driving I would for myself defo have the second failure included also. At least I could hopefully bring the vehicle to a stand were it to fail in that manner. Fortunately so far most have failed at very low speed and the simpler version would probably suffice for these.
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